AzStar

Mad-Dax managed to keep his A/C. So I am going to try and do the same. Living in AZ these cars are just too warm (air flow inside) to not have A/C.

Do you have more pictures of the whole car with these on them? Brand name on rims and tires? Those look old school!

Comes up along the driver's side frame rail, across the firewall, and to the charcoal canister passenger side front (Under OEM Airbox).

Through a filter ?

On another note... what did you do about the charcoal filter? Did you just plug the line that comes from the gas tank up to the charcoal filter?

This car is going to be sweet!

What intercooler did you use? I notice in one of your pictures you still had the Cruise Control cable and canister attached. Did you find a way to use it or just hadn't gotten it removed at that point?

Do you still have an abs delete line for sale? Do you have pictures?

Well... in my case... and I will have to look to other FIJI owners to confirm... it is NOT the same color. The exterior is a deeper shade with metallic. The engine compartment is slightly lighter and no metallic.

Thanks lads.... I may go the paint shop mixing up cans. Tho when I spent some time looking in my engine bay today I think everything will clean up well enough that the only thing I need to hit are the frame rails, especially where a previous mastercylinder leaked and the lower seam on the front radiator support. Been doing soo much thinking and researching on the project my head hurts.

Some more research here.... The Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Fuel Gauge 4310 is fully adjustable. The directions can be seen at the Auto Meter site. Looks like the calibrtion will require about two beers and some head scratching but should be doable. Directions http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1136.pdf Gauge http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3470&sid=11

I have an 89 FIJI Blue Conquest. I've looked online for paint codes and I can't even find FIJI Blue listed as an 89 Conquest color. Is FIJI really Bright Blue Metallic T87/PB5? For my other FIJI owners, the engine compartment is painted in a paler, non-metallic blue. Anyone know a paint source/code for that blue? (Spray can prefered) I want to dress up the engine bay and would like to match the color is possible. Thanks in advance,

Let me know how that works because that was exactly my plan.... and you are well ahead of me at this point.

The tech I spoke with said the GM was closest. When the tank was full gauge would read high... but should be ok when it got to empty. Perhaps there are gauges out there that are adjustable ... but this is what I've found so far.

Thanks Scott.... I tried to find it in my service manual but didn't look in the right place. The .pdf allowed me to do a word search and voila! The GM version of the gauge 0-90 ohm (+/- 10 ohms) (E-F) is the closest to the 1-5 E and 110-117 F of the OEM sender.

For those that have used aftermarket gauges.... Some fuel gauges are calibrated for "Ford and Chrysler" "GM" etc. based upon the OHMS range on the fuel sending unit. Anyone know what the range is for the OEM fuel sender on the STARQUESTS?

I have your drawings.. and pictures but that is the piece that bolts to the frame or bolts to the engine? I thought Serpent told me he was using modified Quest mounts.

How harsh is the vibration transmitted to the car?

Are you using solid mounts or adapting the OEM 2.6L mounts?

Make another set of what Dax?

Nice looking swap! I can't wait to see the finished project. What are you using for gauges? I take it the factory gauges cannot be converted for use with the 2JZ? A couple of questions as I am SLOWLY moving along on my 2JZ swap. 1. What motor mounts are you guys using? Serpent... do you have pictures? You're doing multiple swaps so you must have the motor mount thing down. I thought you said you were modifying the OEM Quest stuff? 2. Has anyone found a way to keep the Cruise Control? My schematics here indicate it uses the ECM as part of the CC system. 3. Anyone keeping their A/C?

Guys, Due to some medical issues I was unable to get to the meet. (sigh) I don't live THAT far away. In any event... someone point me to some pictures? (Maybe next year?)

Might be a fuse... Should be able to check the wires with a ohm/volt meter and see if you have power on the line. If there are two wires I would expect that it closes a circuit and you should see voltage on one of the wires. If there was just one wire I would expect that it provided the ground to the backup lights.

No s***!?!? Are these underdrive pulleys? I see where it speaks to using a different belt.

I think the offset on the pulley is wrong as well.... Thanks for checking...