nine5raptor

Any of them will work with the new v2.00 maft

You really don't need to worry about it anymore. With the new ver. 1.3 out, mike (the maft creator) has said that the rpm wire is not that important. This came about from some of the DSM guys being able to get their cars tuned easily without the wire attached. Chris KCDSM

I agree, something is necessary. If you can only do a/f guage and pyrometer, that is better than nothing. The people who tune solely by seat of the pants with no prior tuning experience and using something this powerful are idiots. I use a pocketlogger and have mine set up to run the best as 0 base +10% richer at idle -5% at mid and -10% at wot. Who would've guessed that w/o empirical data??? My long term fuel trim shows it is still adding in 12% more fuel at idle even on top of the 10% I add Can we say sloppy tolerancing? Totally stock, the fuel trim was stuck at 17% richer just to get the car running. If I disconnected the battery before I got the translator, it would barely start and would usually die a couple of times before I got it to even out.

If a dsm maf is just plug and play for you guys then the trans is as well. Â For me (2G dsm), all I had to do was swap mas and filter, plug in the plugs, then set 4 dip switches (one on, 3 off) and I was off and running. Â With all settings at 0, it ran like stock, just with a much quicker spool. Â Then it is all tinkering, much like an afc. The good thing is though, you don't actually have to cut ecu wires.

That is another option. I personally don't run close enough to the edge to need to dial in that last few percent. Then again, I have never run race gas and pump can be too unpredictable from fill-up to fill-up to run right on the edge. At the track, I run the same as on the street: pump 92, spare, jack and about 200 lbs worth of books and research in the back. I don't care what I can max out at, just where I am at on an everyday basis. 8)

I really doubt they would. I think this was discussed on dsmtuners and they said they just can't afford to do one. It really isn't bad though if you compare it against the price of an afc/dsm mas and I for one am much more of a fan of load based tuning instead of rpm based.

You should... I am taking a couple of summer classes so I may be swamped, but I will be out there for a while at least. I want to make a few passes with the new turbo and translator. chris

Hey, Ray, I got mine installed in the cabin today (still working on it) and also switched the eprom over to the v1.3 software. I'll let you know how it is to tune, as others are already saying it is much more predictable. chris

I would either A: call mike at ramchargers and ask him or B: just try it. I had to try about 3 different places on mine to get a signal that it would accept as the '95 dsms are just a little different than all the others. Didn't hurt anything by trying.

Adding a bit to this (I am a kcdsmer running an ls1 maf and trans). First off, this unit is load based rather than rpm based like the afc. It uses airmass/rpm to determine the load on the engine and then picks which map to use (idle, mid, wot). If the rpm wire is not hooked up, then it goes into backup mode and bases tuning decisions solely on airmass, i.e. <50g/sec is idle, 50-120 grams/sec is mid, 120+ grams/sec is wot, so it is advantageous to have an rpm signal. The 4 switches are for 1. 1g/2g dsm 2. 3"/3.5" mas 3. fuel cut on/fuel cut off 4. flat/contoured aux control (the purple wire that when energized switches to a different map for water inj., nitrous, propane, etc.) The primary knob sets the 'overall' or base. Mine (2g/3s; I'm sure the 1g/2g is very similar) will lean out up to 65% or richen up to 10% on the entire fuel map. For instance: if I put 880cc/min injectors in my dsm, I would set it initially on 50% lean. This would mean the ecu will see 10lb/min instead of 20lb/min. Simple enough. Now the other 3 knobs are idle, mid, wot and each allow for +/- 35% for fine tuning. Ex. My 2G has ALWAYS run the long term fuel trim at 17%, but when I step on the gas the short term has to lean it out -11%. So, I set my base at 0 (450's) idle at +20% fuel, mid at -10%. Seems like a large jump, but the ecu is actually seeing a smoother transition and the throttle-stab hiccup the car had is now gone. Spool is much better on the 14b I am running (quicker than the T25) and when I buy larger injectors (soon), I already have all I need to get them running and tuned. As one last note. I bought a used ls1 maf from a 02 ws6 t/a for $50, $200 for the maft, and made/modified my intake piping for free to get the trans. hooked up. So, $250 is getting close to the price of an afc, but if I decide to go larger than 720's, I will have no idle problems, and you don't have the extra lag induced by the afc seeing full throttle at low rpm and switching to rich when you are just barely over the high threshhold. Also if anyone needs to flow a LOT of air, I know they have made at least one translator for a guy using 4 1650cc/min injectors. Any questions email clbf43@umkc.edu or I checked the bottom of this thread Chris