jeph_tsi

I don't think anyone here thinks that! Thats just too cool, congrats!

locally (for both of us), try zerolift, or maybe ebay. Now don't expect the 1k motor to have ecu, or be a complete dropout, but if you need the motor its not tough to find. Most of the advertised motors are complete, try going in person or calling, they've usually got motors missing some accessories or lightly damaged (dented oil pan, cracked valve cover etc...). I've bought several dropouts from a few different places with a quick cash offer. Be ready to buy though, these places hate tire kickers!

lol, so I guess you like half of my swap! So now you're ready to get trans adaptor, custom clutch/flywheel setup, driveshaft, and a few 'minor' mods to the engine. Once all of that is done you'll still be around 100hp shy of jz so then more time and money just catchin' up. I guess to each their own, I chimed in to share my experience with the jz swapped sq, good thing you shared your experience with your swapped 4g6x quest... I think so far the actual swappers who contributed here have been several satisfied jz's, a few very satisfied lsx's, satisfied sbc, and one 4g63 who regretfully would have rather gone 302...

I don't think it would be the same as a dd dsm... the 4g63 won't just drop in, many things must be changed... I could say the same of dd duty for any of the other engines discussed, they all came stock in something, lol, and these mass produced cars (toyotas with jz's, gm with ls's, ford with 302 etc) are all proven platforms. The difference is that the jz really can drop in with no alterations to the dropout, this is the advantage over the 4g6x. Now don't take this the wrong way, I have a lot of respect for the 4g6x engines, I just prefer otherwise in my conquest. In fact (and ironically) I plan on 4g63 swapping a first gen mr2 this winter (flame suit on!). In that case it is preferred for the same reason as the jz in the conquest, I can drop in a totally stock fwd 4g63 dropout and have a great, dependable car, I can't wait to drive that little monster!

yep, pros and cons are everywhere, just thought I'd chime in on my experience as I've put quite a few miles on my jz swap. I had seriously looked into the 4g6x swap prior to this and there is no way it would be a 2k swap, depending on what you count. many of the parts detailed in my 4.5k budget would be necessary for many performance setups (intercooler, piping, exhaust, clutch, radiator, fuel pump, etc...). My turnoff on the 4g6x swap was that there is a lot of mixing and matching, wideblock with eclipse head, or narrow block with d50 trans (and convert from cable to hydro clutch). Then after all that effort you're left with the weaklink of the km132 trans... In any of my swaps I usually plan for a worst case scenario, if your 4g6x swap blows up it would be much more difficult to replace, you'd have to build another hybrid engine. and still I see very few if any dd 4g's, I don't think anyone has chimed in on this thread with one, but it seems like a much more difficult swap than the jz from what I understand of it.

it is good to have a car that doesn't sound like a tractor, but What I really like is having way more hp and still better gas mileage, also its nice to have a 300+ hp conquest that is dependable as a daily come rain, sleet, extreme heat and extreme cold, being able to rev to 7500rpms is nice too. If it were a sunday driver I wouldn't mind sacraficing a little reliability, but I really wanted to have decent power AND something I can drive every day. As far as swaps go, given a larger budget I would have probably done a lsx, but the jz's are way cheaper. What I like about the jz is that from start to finish if you do it yourself you can have a very reliable conquest with a 4.5k budget. The part I like the most is that once the swap is done, catastrophe isn't expensive. I love that IF I do blow up my motor I can easily find another for under 1k and be back on the road, a well built g54 would take a lot more time and money to replace, lsx would be equal time but more money. The front heavy part is the downside, with a healthy suspension it isn't terrible, but with the average conquest having a worn suspension its gonna be a problem. In my case I'm not roadracing the car, I'm using it as a daily and occaisonally racing so with a healthy suspension and braking system I'm quite happy. either way, to each their own, if you don't want to swap don't, but the subject of this thread is about the best swap and not wether or not to swap. So here is my final opinion, best swap, lsx. But best swap on a budget would definitely be the 1jz.

forgot to mention ^that is how I remove the bad ones, from the donor car I just drill them, since you don't need to worry about preserving the metal beneath.

wire wheel to find 'em, then I use a cutoff wheel to grind them down, makes it easy to grind down the spot weld without messing up the metal behind it.

Home, took forever, frigging traffic! I had a blast though, good to see everyone, already can't wait 'til next year!

shoo, this may take a minute 5 running engines in cars/trucks 3 running engines in motorcycles 2 running engines in atv's 5 extra running engines 6? extra non running engines 2 small engines running I may be missing a few, but thats the bulk of 'em, so 23.

I really wanted a 4g63 swap once, but ended up doing a 1jz car. The problem with the swap is it seems just too easy on paper when in reality there is a lot more to it, I'm guessing this is what got these crooks in over their heads, you really need to understand these cars and mitsubishi engines to properly do this swap. I think all of the responses so far are very solid, hopefully he is reading this. What he really needs to do is get educated on the swap, the more he knows the harder it will be to get ripped off again. projectzerog.com is an awesome site for anyone interested in a 4g6x swap, get familiar with it. I really hope this horrible experience doesn't ruin sq's for him, projects like these are what we need to appreciate the value of our cars and to positively represent this community. I hope someone will step in and help sort this out, wish I could help but I'm a bit far away (cincinnati, oh).

I wouldn't mind seeing it moved either, but sept would be tough, the grand and shades of the past are pretty much gridlock on the strip.

Well 2 down 3 to go, unfortunately I've got the cheapest 2! However my vote has to go for the countach, with the exception of the lambo my driveway looks like a childhood dream of mine from the 80's!

Cincinnati here, I've gone to several dsm shootouts, not with the quest though, more of a limo trip! Definitely going this year, fun to watch the new gtr classes!

I have a lot to do to my quest, hopefully it'll be lookng, and sitting much nicer than it is now. Gonna try to finish some paint work and put on a new suspension to show off! 1) Bigjohn--- 4g63 Quest 2) Tsigal----- Quest 3) 19Cturbo-1jiz Starion 4) Tman---- Quest 5)Jewelz6---Scion TC and daughter 6) Olive8 - Moparbishi ...as long as my son's return home goes as planned 7) Wildcatfanatic---Quest with my wife 8) bad2rass-kyle, laura, kevin, dee, & hopefully the starion 9) BoostedQuest89 --- Oh yeah, I'll be there 10) JAinsworth, will be in room 209 11) Coke - MAYBE (possibly attending Kemah instead 12) chris brasher from alabama the whole faMILY WILL BE THERE WIFE,SON,AND DAUGHTER,10/8 YEARS OLD... 13) Ken_B. 14) Dad, with wife and a Quest. 15) jeph_tsi, my 1jz quest, a few friends, and another quest (not a member here)

I don't know much about anything in your area, I'm a little far from there, but I can help you in a few other areas. Firstly most of the 1jz's are gonna come with the longer r154 trans, your gonna want to look for one from a mk3 supra turbo, the na's had w58. unless you get lucky and find a short r154 with a 1jz. Still worth getting the whole dropout so you can get the bellhousing, flywheel, etc.... then just trade with the proper r154. The good thing is they are all worth about the same so you should be able to sell yours for approximately what the new one will cost, supraforums will soon be a good friend, great place for tech help and parts. I need to do some digging but I have part numbers for heater hoses that are molded and fit perfectly, also a coolant temp sensor to work with your gauge, and if you want to keep your stock tach get the dakota digital tach converter. I've got more too, but thats the best contribution I can give.

with 1j's the idle the iac can be problematic, they stick sometimes after sitting for a while, you'll need to bypass it or clean it out. If it isn't running strong check for trouble codes, and make sure all 3 coils are getting power, they came off of a different branch of the wiring harness in my car, and also make sure your map is there. Also take the cover off of your ecu and make sure the capacitors are good. Other that all that do what you usually would on an ill running motor, check fuel pressure, spark plugs, o2 sensor, etc... As far as the windows go, you don't have to mess with the wiring in the actual doors to mess with the power windows, it sounds like you messed with something in the chassis harness by mistake. Time to start checking all of your connections and examining the window circuit for faults, sounds like you may have cut into it by mistake. Time to get out the big book of wiring and start the fun of chasing wires!

none of mine ever actually blew up, I was just really disappointed with the performance. As long as I kept my car stock it was great, but when I tried to make more power it just seemed too inconsistent to me, sometimes it would drive well, but then often it wouldn't. Both of the performance setups I built I sold complete and running, I figured I may as well get rid of them while they were worth something rather than live with the disappointment. The car was very tempermental and always needed something 'tweaked'. I really don't have a problem with the engine itself, I just can't stand the fuel managment! I'm sure Sotty is right, MPI is probably a whole new world, but to do that right doesn't come cheap either... How much is a well built 2.6, good turbo, mpi, fuel managment, and tuning? Its probably as much or more than a swap! I'd rather start with an engine that has stock mpi, factory tune, turbos, and fuel injection that makes the power of a well modded g54 in stock form and boatloads more potential.

I'm glad to see another person chime in as to the ease of the 4g swap, still I'd like to hear from someone who's done it... I must have been gifted with junk g54's too! As long as they're stockish they've run forever for me, just not enough power, and the more I modified the worse it got. my first performance g54 was a 17c, hardpipes, modified stock ic, bigger fuel pump, jv's eliminated.... Nothing but trouble with that one, when it ran good it was great, but far from consistant, and even farther from smooth. I got tired of constantly being under the hood so I pulled it and installed it into a friends car, he loved it, but also didn't need it daily. After that I tried again, mostly from top end performance, 19c turbo, non jet head, fully rebuilt motor, maft... This one was quick, as quick as my jz (sometimes) but also very inconsistant and a frustrating dd, I found myself paranoid and always watching my gauges waiting for the next problem, if I made it a month it was a beautiful thing! At the time this was my only car and I put around 15k a year on it, I put 7k on it and again pulled the motor, and parted out the car, just too many problems... I bought a dd (not a conquest). Then I got the conquest fever again, but didn't want to settle for stock, so in comes my current quest. Since I've started driving it I've done only maintanance! It runs consistantly and smooth, just soo smooth. It makes great power, gets good gas mileage, when its freezing, raining, snowing, really hot, it still starts and runs great! I drive it to and from the track, drive it hard on and off the track, and it just keeps going! Its been great! I love getting in it, turning the key, and enjoying some spirited driving, and being able to rely on it every day with no worries. The only down time its had was from when I hit a deer, I don't think thats the fault of the swap, except that it ran enough for me to hit a deer!

This is what I want to hear, advice from people who have actually swapped, its easy to speculate when you have no experience, but once you've been there its a whole lot different. Too many people assume that the cost of the dropout is it, when it is actually not. Just like with mpi, it isn't just the manifold, you need to put together fuel managment, an engine that can handle it, and find a turbo, then there's tuning... Or to think that a 4g63 will just work, lsquest88 I'd love to hear your experience with it btw. I chimed in on this thread to share my experience with my swapped quest, I try my best not to sugarcoat it as I don't want to mislead anyone, and lets face it everything has a negative. I'm not saying its the perfect choice, but it definitely works for me and if I had to do it again I wouldn't change much. I would prefer an ls based swap, but it simply wasn't within my budget, although that will be the next quest I build. I very seriously wanted to do a 4g63, but the more I researched and talked to a few people who have done it, the more I realized it wasn't as easy as most assume. Also I didn't hear much good feedback on it, except the auto trans drag purposed cars, but generally the feedback from the manual transmission street 4g's I get the impression that they wouldn't do it again. I really appreciated the honesty, this drove me to the explore the jz, also cheap, and I haven't found anyone who doesn't love it! I would love to keep it in the family, but not if its a choice that I'll regret, after all this is the car I drive every day!

Exactly! I want a car tailor made to my taste without these rules that restrict me... There are many aspects of my car that aren't stock, suspension, stereo, body... The way I see it is that mitsubishi gave me a great blueprint, now as time and technology advance its time to punch it up so we can keep up with todays cars.

the 4g63 is always brought up as this very easy swap... if this is true where are the 4g63's, and are any of them daily drivers? Believe me, I weighed many options before I got mine and very seriously thought about the 4g63, but in putting together a swap list it really added up, and after all is said and done you are still stuck with the stock tranny as the weak link. It definitely isn't as simple as bolting in a 4g63 from an eclipse, thats for sure! Actually the jz seems simpler to me than the 4g63 when you really get into it! I would love to keep it mitsu, but my primary concern was reliability and I didn't have a huge budget. Personally my favorite would be an ls swap, but they are a bit more expensive.

depending on your goals, I'd go with the 1j, best bang for your buck... If you're going single turbo go with the 2j, but stock for stock I'd much prefer a 1j as it has parallel turbos vs the 2j's sequential. The sequential turbos in the 2j are much more frustrating and complex. Last year I swapped a friends lexus is300 with a vvti 2j and kept the stock turbos. Our cars are similar in weight, both with r154 tranny, me with stock 3.54 gears and him with 3.7 and while he was faster it wasn't by a whole lot, and the sequential turbos take up a ton more space, neither of us liked them, so now he is going single, and will definitely shred me! But this came with a cost, 2j was a more expensive engine, and then add 2k for the turbo kit. My car has a stock 1j with r154, obviously an aftermarket intercooler and piping, and a 3" exhaust, but otherwise it is stock. The bad part is the weight, not only is the engine heavier, but so is the transmission. The other bad part is that the stock sway bar will not fit. Here is the good, if you're interested I'm having new struts engineered to handle the extra weight at koni as we speak, they should be in by pf14, and am close to a larger swaybar as well. Still with these negatives I feel the positives by far outweigh them. This car is my daily, it gets around 24mpg, and has proven very reliable. I am far from an experienced drag racer (flame suit on) but my car runs a pretty consistent 13.0 @ 107... I know it doesn't sound like a lot but like I said, I'm no pro. That is with a 2.0 60 foot and 225 rubber in the rear. I believe I took you for a ride at pf12 actually, we had 5 guys in the car for a taco bell run and still managed to get pretty sideways, lol! If you're coming to pf14 I plan on being there, you're welcome to take it for a spin, see what you think of my little 1j! I try my best not to sugar coat anything, I believe you took a ride with me at pf12 as well. Since then this has been my dd, except for around 5 months when I hit a deer and had to park it. I do have other cars, and a truck for really bad weather, but since that time I've put over 10k miles on it and I don't take it easy! I've done regular maintenance and so far still haven't had any break downs. I drove it when it was -10 out with no problems, except actually freezing to the ground one day, lol! So the reliability part I simply do not see! The other thing I like is that the 1j is a non interference motor. Parts aren't hard to get as most things are shared between the 1j and 2j and are available at any autozone. This is true, none of this is cheap, a well built g54 with mpi, better fuel management, etc, is far from cheap if done right. There are cheap ways to make hp, but in the end they will cost you! When I do something I try my best to do it right, something that will not need constant tuning, or break down. With a built g54 what do you do when a catastrophic failure happens, takes a lot of time and money to build another. This is where I like the 1j, there are rows of them at the local engine depot for less than a grand! This means IF there is a major break down you can get another one quick and not have as much down time.

ugly... luckily it looks like the pieces didn't go rattling around the bellhousing causing more damage. In all of my cars i strongly enforce the 5 second rule, the clutch should NEVER be in for more than 5 seconds... when your clutch pedal is in is when there is stress on the master, slave, and fork, otherwise they are at rest and with heavier duty pressure plates this becomes even more important. I compare it to lifting a very heavy weight, not too hard to lift it up and put it down, but think of the added stress of holding it up for an extended period of time. This is what you ask of your clutch system when you hold that pedal in, drives me nuts when I see someone in traffic or at a light with the clutch pedal in the whole time. not saying your guilty of this, I'd say its more from the heavier duty pressure plate and old fatigued clutch fork, still a good rule to heed. It would be nice to find a stronger fork, or a multi disk clutch setup.

I've looked at this one, it has been on this guys lot for about 2yrs now. The good part is that it is very complete and original, I think it may be a one owner car. Good interior, also an shp car. Runs well but likely needs injectors cleaned or replaced. The bad part of this car is paint and rust.... The undercarriage isn't bad, there is rust on the rails but not horrible, The airdam is cracked but still very repairable, and there is rust around the wheel arches, this has gotten worse since the pics in the add. also some rust on the front fender. The paint is weathered and getting chalky so it will need paint soon or the rust is going to spread quick. This is a very nice car, but not a realistic price, and this guy is pretty firm on it. I made an offer on it when he got it a few years ago, I forget how much (~2800), but he laughed me off! At the time he was asking 4500! Since then a few friends have looked at it and made reasonable offers in the same ballpark, no luck yet!