BoostedStroker

Hey ya'll, i recently was driving to work on a off ramp onto another part of the highway, hit a bump, tire blew and hit the guard rail 3 times going 60 mph. The car still runs fine, goes into all gears fine (radiator and intercooler was not damaged) and will move under its own power but i wouldnt say its driveable as the front bumper assembly is smashed up along with the fenders, and a tail light is busted out. I am located in Okemos, MI and selling the car as a WHOLE and asking $800 for it. It will need to be towed, here is a link to the craigslist ad with all the information http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/5047318515.html

No problem! hopefully it will help someone out if there having the same problem! I drove it last night (about 25 mile drive home) after i let the car warm up and it defiantly helped alot, it did it once maybe twice, but majority of the time had zero problems. I do bet my pickup coil is probably a bit worn out as it looks original, already ordered one from rock auto so when it gets here ill throw it on and see if there is any changes.

After routing it the correct way, i just drove it a few miles and couldnt get it to stutter or misfire when it was warm. Ill know more after i drive it home tonight.

Ah gotcha, hm not sure why the PO had it like it was? just routed it back to the original spot and going to take it for a drive and see what she does

The fuel pressure regulator is NOT plumbed like it was originally. The port on the throttle plate it goes to originally is not producing any vacuum, i tried blowing air through it and its not plugged as it stalls out the engine but it does not create any vacuum so its T'eed into the source for the vacuum advance. So the vacuum/pressure source for the FPR needs to come from a source ABOVE the throttle plate? (above meaning the intake side)

I did run a compression test to verify that the motor was rebuilt (even though i could see the new gaskets on the motor) and it did really well on all 4. I would really like to take the injectors out and have them atleast cleaned and tested. If the pick up coil dosent solve the problem that will be the next step. Is trilogy the only company that sells upgraded tbi injectors? Here is a pic of the pick up coil... Rust all over so i think its defiantly time for replacement. http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0522150011.jpg

Well i replaced every clamp on the intercooler, didnt solve that problem but did pick up 2 psi across the board so there was a slight boost leak... I am going to check that cap and rotor next, I just put it in not 3 months ago and ordered the most expensive cap and rotor from rock auto so it shouldn't be a quality problem. I think TEXASQUEST is onto something with the pickup coil... because it will also come close to stalling out every once in a while and it did stall out went it got really warm outside. May end up ordering one of those... for $40 its defiantly worth a shot. I mean i am running out of parts to test or check

I rechecked the spark plug gap and they were still at .030 so i gapped them down to .028, the cap and rotor is brand new but i will recheck them to make sure they didnt come loose. I went to pull off part of the intercooler piping to check the throttle body and noticed the clamps were fairly loose. Having a boost leak would defiantly cause my problem and after regapping the spark plugs and tighenting the clamps i could get to it seemed to help a bit because i saw the boost go up to 15 psi when it normally only hits 13 so it was defiantly leaking. Also makes sense because i could tighten the MBC to up the boost and it wouldnt go past 13 psi no matter what... Going to atleast put new clamps on all the boots and inspect the boots.

Also noticed intell it reaches operating temp. its worse then when its warm will even stutter/misfire if i just floor it. I am starting to think it could possibly be a injector problem? But then again when its warmed up it runs pretty darn good under full boost...

Hey ya'll, i have been having a slight problem sense i have got the car but now that i am trying to dial the car in for a bigger turbo i am trying to figure out whats going on. Its a 87 Conquest with intake, exhaust, aftermarket intercooler, off brand BOV, boost gauge, shortband A/F gauge, msd coil, rebuilt motor with 18k miles, MBC and running 13 psi on the stock 12a. The car will misfire a bit at 3/4 throttle then pull just fine, it ONLY does it if i lean into the throttle and ONLY at 3/4 throttle. If i just step on it i have zero problems or stay below 3/4 throttle. It does it worse when the vehicle is cold. Here is what i have done to the car... - Replaced Vacuum advance (the one off rockauto) - Replaced spark plug wires - Replaced spark plugs with NGKs bpr7es gapped at .030 (also have the bur7ea-11's part number #7031 i have tried and it seems the car likes the bpr7es more? I can try putthing the 7031s back in? - Replaced dist. cap and rotor - Checked timing and its perfect - Checked FPR and fuel pressure and its working correctly (the nipple on the TB the fpr gets it vacuum/pressure from is not working so i have it connected to the source for the vacuum advance, i did verfiy that the fpr operates normally and it does) - Replaced ignition coil with a MSD Blaster 2 coil - Checked the TPS sensor using a scope to make sure there was no bad spots and its working correctly - Checked the MAF to make sure its working probably using a snap on verus and its working properly - According to the shortband the car is not leaning out but obviously its a shortband so not excatly very accurate.

I was referring to the flange northstar posted to bolt a DSM td05 pattern to the stock manifold.

So this flange is what is used to bolt a DSM TD05 flange turbo to the stock manifold? I know there just a hair off from each other right? That other link would be a great alternative but its still pretty pricey for my application...

Like i said its not pretty but i will safe it! http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0328152227.jpg http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0328152228.jpg http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0328152228a.jpg

WOW! i really appreciate the warm welcome! Yeah the curse has already started... already upgraded the brakes to slotted/cross drilled rotors, new calipers, ceramic pads, installed a aux fan, subwoofer and amp, manual boost controller, msd coil and of course all the basic fluids, filters etc. being a mechanic i do get alittle OCD when i get a new to me vehicle A new turbo is going to happen here in the next month or two and what i really love is things are ALOT cheaper in the gasoline world vs the modified diesel world (Injectors alone are $2000-$3500). The car has been lowered and the frame rails were the first thing i checked, and yeah the passenger side was COMPLETELY rotted out no metal left what so ever for about a 8" section. Already patched that up though! The other side is not nearly as bad but is getting fixed here shortly. Next step is to get started on fixing the outside rust... infront of the rear wheels is rotted out bad so i think i may end up running a dual side exit in front of the rear tires like the roush mustangs do. I do really enjoy driving it though! defiantly not the most powerful thing but the should change with a bigger turbo!

So after looking around it seems like the Evo 3 16g turbo is a viable option for what im looking for? Seems like it fits with a few minor modifications and can achieve 275-300rwhp with the right supporting mods without a problem. Any advice or input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks! i just have to decide which one to order! I do like the TEP one better as well as its going to be better quality and dosent have a 1-2" spacer, $200 isnt a bad investment though for a mount as you can use whatever t3/t4 turbo on it. As far as turbo your thinking something with 55-60 trim compressor, 70-75 trim turbine and roughly .60-.70 A/r to reach my 300HP goal? I will be accquiring the mount and a adjustable FPR first, possibly a wideband setup sense the shortband i have is basically useless. I plan on doing the turbo in atleast the next month or two (when i get my vacation time).

I think the ebay route is something im going to try, if i was auto-crossing it or drag racing it alot then obviously the cheaper turbo wouldnt last very long. For my sitution putting $500ish into a setup is reasonable for what ill be doing with it. That first adapter your listed is what would be needed to bolt to the stock manifold to use that gt2871 turbo? Or just look for a T3/T4 style turbo with roughly the same specs as that gt2871 turbo? What your recommend is probably what i will be purchasing

If ya'll have any links to turbos that you think would be a good opition please be free to post them up! Obviously it would be nice to buy the t3/t4 kit from racetep for $1800 but for me this is just a budget built DD as i spent that amount on the car itself... I dont mind spending 400-500 on a turbo and 100-200 on misc. parts but $800-$1200 for just a new turbo is a bit redicilous for what i am going to be doing with it. I think the problem is people buy the cheap turbos and go out and beat on them and expect them to last as long as a $800-$1200 name brand turbo which is defiantly not the case. If i can make it last for a year or two for $250-$300 i would be more then happy but then again i wouldnt be beating on it like a 16 year old

Your referring to the TD06 turbine wheel? Whats the specs on the sizing? So i can look for a T3 with roughly the same specs if i go that route. Will a 16g with a Td05h turbine wheel get me to where i want? As stated the goal is just a budget built 300rwhp DD, and from what i have been reading is very achievable with a healthy stock motor on the stock fuel system. As long as its a Td05 or Td05h it will bolt to the stock manifold? If i wanted a adapter i would need one that will bolt to a Td05 flange? ]

When i first joined i was able to start threads in atleast the newbie section but no where else. Now i cannot start a new thread anywhere including the newbie section.

Very well said! Lots of good information and pointers there. You cannot just bolt on a turbo and run more boost on a 30 year old car with knowing the condtion of motor and drivetrain also know the limitations! Do the supporting mods first! I do not add in my post, my conquest even though it is not pretty has 142k miles with a rebuilt motor with 15-20k miles (Good idea to run a compression test on any vehicle you are wanting to get more power out of so you KNOW that mechanically it is healthy or not) and the transmission is roughly a year and a half old. Even with that said if its your daily driver be realistic! If you damage your ride can you still get around? I may not know alot about these cars (Completly new to me!) but work as a Diesel tech have owned a few LT1 and LS1 camaros so i already know what i am getting into so if you dont do your RESEARCH and ask questions and dont think because you know how to change your oil your mechanically suited to change a turbo out. I have learned ALOT just by reading and going through these forums. I also have a 97 7.3 powerstroke that is much faster then my Conquest so adding boost is not new to me. As for me i dont plan to make this a drag car, i am looking to make it a 300ish rwhp car that is daily driveable, i can have fun with and may be able to keep up with the truck After reading it seems like a 16G is best suited for my needs, seems like there is a few on ebay for cheap but require some minor modifactions? All the "Bolt on" 16g turbos are around $1200-$1400, i have a hard time spending that type of money when as said i can purchase a reman 7.3 turbo that is much bigger for $650 just seems pretty expensive... I have seen a couple videos of conquests running a ebay T70 turbo on youtube. What does it entail to mount a td05h 16g turbo on a conquest? I remember hearing something about reclocking the compressor housing and a few other details? As always i know you pay what you get for but i have heard good reviews for the ebay turbos from reputuable vendors as long as you dont plan on running auto x. Here is one turbo i was looking at http://www.ebay.com/itm/TD05-16G-7CM-TURBO-CHARGER-90-99-ECLIPSE-GST-GSX-TALON-TSI-4G63-DSM-FLANGE-350HP-/111430152813?hash=item19f1c1326d&vxp=mtr and here is the T70 i have seen a couple videos of on a few conquests on youtube (seems like theres a descent amount of lag with this size) http://www.ebay.com/itm/T70-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-59-TRIM-7-A-R-COMPRESSOR-62-TURBINE-600-HP-BOOST-600-HP-/170766880859?fits=Make%3AChrysler|Model%3AConquest&hash=item27c27fd05b&vxp=mtr. Just looking for some input on which route to go, may not be purchasing one anytime soon if i decide to go with the more expensive route.

I do need to take some pictures, not going to lie though the outside is in pretty rough shape, when i got it had a huge dent in the hood (now fixed), huge dent in the passenger front fender (working on fixing), front air dam is completly trashed and being held together by zip ties (drift style i guess?), both front fenders have some rust holes about 2 inches by 4 inches. Infront of both rear tires is fairly rotted out, one side the whole lower section about 10 inches long is rotted out (going to take some magic to remake that section) and a couple rust spots along the rear fenders. Its in need of a paint job big time, for now just going to fix the rust and primer the whole thing till it can be painted. Mechanically its in great shape other then a small problem when under higher boost is will missfire for a second then boost kicks back in and it will pull just fine (guessing its the vacuum advance). I owned two camaros (94 z28 and a pretty well modfied 98 z28) and was never a huge fan of the "tuner" style cars but i do like everything about these cars! Now i just need to make it atleast as fast as the diesel

Every sense i was 14 i always went to different car shows, i have lived in Michigan and Tennessee most of my live. So needless to say in 9 years, not counting the fact i have been a mechanic for the past 5 (Diesel Tech. though) i have seen ALOT of different cars. A couple months ago i acquired a 1986 Toyota MR2 for 600 bucks, had to replace a piston so rebuilt the motor, did all the brakes, fluids, new tires etc. So in all spent another 700 in parts. I have a buddy i go to school with, he buys cars fixes them and sells them and he personally has like 8 vehicles. So i was telling him about how i got the MR2 done one day and he mentions "Oh well i have a Conquest i might want to trade you for the MR2" and my first response is "What in the hell is a Conquest?". Explained to me it was a Chrysler (Mitsubushi mostly) RWD with a POSI, Turbo 4 cylinder and a 5 speed manual. Up intell that day i never heard of one or seen one, but we got in it and took it for a drive. Immediatly i really liked the car, love the stance (car has been lowered but regardless), how it drove and of course having 14k on the motor and 25k on the trans. and 140k orignally miles was a plus. So afterwards we pulled back up to the school and i said "So when do you want to trade?" 2 days later i traded straight up for a 1987 Chrysler Conquest TSI! After a couple weeks i really enjoy driving the car and really didnt understand how i NEVER even heard of it.

I have a 87 Conquest that i am looking for the lower air dam for or even the 1 piece from a 88-89. Has to be in descent shape with no or minimal rust, dosent matter what color. Located in Michigan. I apologize for the title for some reason it cut off the rest off it? If a mod could add the info to the title that would be greatly appreciated!

Sure do, i am not new to the idea of breaking things by bumping up the boost. I have a 97 F250 7.3 powerstroke running at 45 psi on a stock turbo making 400-425ish rwhp, but to use that as a example... The stock turbo is SAFE to run 35-40psi on for short periods of time, where it sees 18-20 psi stock. As long as the turbo is good shape and your not beating the crap out of it you can make a turbo last at 35-40 psi. I am a diesel tech. so parden my ignorance lol Is 14-15 psi SAFE to run on a stock turbo conquest? The motor has 15k on it, trans. is a year and a half old, turbo is in good shape and as stated supporting mods have been done. I dont know what the "norm" is to run for the max boost on these stock turbos hence why i am asking. Have others run a stock turbo at 14-15psi and have it live long if there not beating the crap out of it?