twojayzeestarion

done alot of work cleaning things up now that everything is in its place started removing these un used engine bay brackets http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/0518151955a.jpg mounted my translator here sealed it shut since it has nothing to do with tune http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/0518151956.jpg put my electronic fuel pressure gauge here http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/10408705_904228949599199_5163897163050360751_n.jpg put my wide band here and my safc2 were ashtray was http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/10409616_904228719599222_1956717675622284862_n.jpg got my interior shined up decided to keep the grey dash cause it looks good there complements the exterior imo http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/11224731_903490723006355_2511167649986410674_n.jpg started polishing the engine bay. dropped 22lbs total in unused brakets, clips , connectors and bolts http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/11014956_904325119589582_8723418193992053969_n.jpg

also. do not use heat gun, ive found they heat the light up un evenly and cause one side to have friction while removing lens which is what ends up cracking them. that said if you trust in me your light will look amazing when you get it back

they arnt that fragile, as long as you get them up to about 200° the come right apart, and if i broke somones light while repairing it id definatly send back one of my own so it would be on me, i have one of every type of tail light in my possesion othwr than the japan spec late model starion lights. you could definatly trust me with your lights as im not a broke nor in experianced person

Ill do it for 50$ and you pay shipping, can have them back same week will look new as they possiply could. Im ver good at it

I have also cracked one

Stick them in the oven at lowest setting jeep an eye on em, take them them out look at back housing plasitic note were lens snap in, while light is hot pry with small lever were the lens tabs are very carfully work around entire light in small steps, re heat if nessary, be careful! Onece you get them apart remove rust metal, clean all glue from housing and lens very important and use a good sealer, i normally pick up some chrome paint and paint where th metal was

i once swapped new valves in a head, didnt have the seats ground, same issue your having maybe sq'r did such

jealous!! i got that same turbo on my 2jz quest

bet your glad to find that

sounds like your valves are fu bard , what did you do to the head?, whats your fluids look like?, put it on tdc on compression wheres your dowel pin?

my 83 has that from the factory, seems like all the uk cars came base model such as a 86 but having the Manuel havac controls such as early cars in the states and non power mirrors

http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/0516150744b.jpg http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/0516150744c.jpg

my name isnt scotty john its curt

this one is 89 ecu converted and i gurentee its flowing alot more air now tho the 83 system was mean

eh it was only left there for like a week iirc

looks good i dig it

i built it specifically to beat my buddys miata in thos years auto cross events, from what ive seen today after getting my tune where it is im not going to have a problem doing that. id also like to take it up to thunder valley and make some passes see what it will do

http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af108/scooterdude92/Mobile%20Uploads/0515151430.jpg

on my two 2jz cars the prob i posted operates 2 12'' fans @ 14vs never had a single issue, who wants to be flipping a toggle switch on and off? once you set the dial on this device it will kick on at that temp and shut off below that point from there on out

i think if i cant find other people to drive my other cars to pf this year im gonna drive it there by itself

lol i see what ya did there

how did it leak? no coolant goes to it, i have it on 3 cars an the fans on all of them cut on at 170,and cuts off at 150

that switch grounds threw bracket, switched power in and power to fans out, stick the sensor in your rad under the upper hose, also the fans than come on that have a black power wire and blue ground, if you wire the blue wire as power and use black as ground the fans will push towards rad and thats backwards

this to turn fans on at desired temp http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-Fan-Switch-Thermostatic-Radiator-Probe-Adjustable-160-240-Degrees-F-Kit-/390979832456?hash=item5b0836ca88&vxp=mtr im currently running this on 3 cars with no issues http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-240SX-S14-MT-SR20DET-TURBO-TWO-ROW-CORE-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-BLUE-FAN-SHROUD-/151297714313?hash=item233a0be889&vxp=mtr get a lower rad hose from a 1994 mazda b4000 4.0l engine and use it for your lower rad hose

for some reason its my favorite car, ive been tuning all day, with a bosch 044 fatty, old style trilogy fpr, and 950 1150 fic injectors, im pulling 30% fuel at wot and 20psi and my afrs are still at 11.0-11.5