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LSQuest88

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Posts posted by LSQuest88

  1. I believe all of the LS based motors have same bellhousing bolt pattern. Just make sure if it's a 6.0L you go with stay away from the late 90s to early 2000s they had a "long" crank more made for th350 and th400 transmissions so you'd have to do some modifying. If you go with later years than that then should bolt right up snd work. Not sure what all you'd want to change out. I think people put LS1 intakes and cams in the truck motors. I think sll the front accessories... (water pump, balancer, etc) are longer than car motors. I forgot to mention I have a 5 speed tremec tko 600 trans in my car. That may make a big difference in clearance in trans tunnel
  2. It's hard to tell you an accurate answer because it all depends on what kind of deal you come across on parts. But rough ballpark I'd say at least $5k if you can find the motor and trans close enough to pick it up in person. You could always look into the 5.3L or 6.0 iron blocks they usually go for cheaper. The 5.3s you can find dirt cheap and about in any junk yard
  3. It's worth it. I've never enjoyed my car as much as I have since I put the LS1 in. I worked with what the previous owner had already done though when he put an old small block chevy in. So I'm not sure exactly what all he did. The factory mounts were already gone so welding in new ones was pretty easy. I did hot rod power driving the car over 700 miles in a weekend (first long road trip after swap) and performed flawlessly. I averaged 25mpg on the highway and did not overheat sitting stopped for almost 3 hours. I can go to the track and almost lay down an 11 second pass with the motor being 95% stock. I still have stock dash and center console in my car. I performed the swap before becoming a member here so I didn't do a build thread or take many pictures of the process. The hardest part for you might be having an 87. With that being said you might would want to look in to swapping the rear diff and axles for the 88-89 6 bolt ones. It holds up to alot more hp. Also its always the little things that take the most time. Like figuring out radiator, radiator hoses, exhaust...etc. I used stock crossmember and went with manual rack and pinion steering. Little word of advice I'd look into an aftermarket wire harness which runs around $500, gets rid of the clutter everything is labeled and gets rid of junk you don't need. Also holley LS hot rod oil pan part #302-1 is worth every penny for clearance with stock crossmember. I used stock exhaust manifolds from a ls3 2010 camaro ss. They stay tucked up to the block and exit toward rear of engine. Use those or get some block hugger headers. Those few things made my swap a whole lot easier
  4. When I looked into buying stainless steel brake lines I decided against it. I came across alot of different discussions about people having brake line blow outs with them. It wasn't all just 1 brand either. I'm not trying to scare you or say you wasted your money, just telling you to be careful! P.s. it wasn't starquest specific but one of the brands that came up with this problem ssupplies them for our cars and starts with a G........
  5. Also if you go that route, take a cereal box and trace around those tabs and cut out 4 of them. These work great for templates to trim until you get it to where they fit nice. Make sure to label which ones they are, driver front driver rear etc... Then take the final pieces and trace them over the actual metal tabs. That will make sure you only have to cut them once and they will be right. Make sure the actual mounts are on the engine and it's set in place where u want it when u go to test fit and trim the cardboard pieces. Hillbilly way of doing it but it works damn good
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  6. I agree it's preferred to run same manufacturer hose and fittings but I have run jegs hose with about 4 different brands of fittings and my lines have held pressure with no leaks except for one, then when I was taking it off I realized I must've stripped it when I put it on a few years back and didn't get it all the way on. My fuel pressure is always 60-62 psi. I will say this, with using the few different brands of fittings you do get what you pay for. I like the earls fittings, they are decently priced and seem to have a better design and are easier to go on and seal on the hose than summit or jegs brand fittings. The one fitting that i had trouble with and had to redo was a jegs fitting, haven't had any problems with any other. I use no special tools to put mine together. Hope this helps
  7. The easiest route isn't always the best in a swap. 4l60 is electronic which adds initial cost to a build. Heavier and might be longer than like a th350 which could also open another can of worms with modifying the tunnel. The spacers and adapter flexplates are cheap and is easy. The flywheels to adapt an old style manual trans to an LS on the other hand is not cheap. $400+ for a flywheel
  8. I get 25 mpg highway with my LS1. Stock ls6 heads and intake and small cam and that's it. it's at 364hp to the wheels which is about 425hp or so at the crank. Can drive it on 90 degree days in stop and go traffic and can go to the track and run almost 12 flat. Could run 11s if I had an automatic. Remember...25mpg! Lol you won't be disappointed very easy power and I doubt the LS1 is any heavier than the g54b
  9. I nnever have run one behind my ls1 but when I bought my car it had a 406 sbc and a th400 trans and looked like all that was needed was a hammer to make a few dents. I have a tko 600 trans in there now and I did the same thing. Just hit a couple spots for clearance and it fits in there nice. All my interior is stock around the tunnel so what dents had to be made didn't interfere with anything not fitting inside. Personally I'd go with a th350 if you decide on one of these. They are lighter and take a little less power to turn and can probably find one cheaper than a th400. If you go this route you'd either need a swap torque converter or (cheaper route) crankshaft spacer or swap flexplate. The flexplate and spacer are available through jegs or summit. A local converter shop can make you a converter or csn probably be found online as well. The trans itself will bolt right up to the LS1, only 5 out of 6 bolts line up which is perfectly fine. Only downfall is that these transmissions don't have overdrive. Your stuck with 3 gears
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