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ArsenalFox

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About ArsenalFox

  • Birthday 08/04/1984

Profile Information

  • Location
    Johnston, IA
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    50131
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Majorca Black
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. ArsenalFox
    Sorry it took so long to get back to this post. Been a rough six weeks. Anyway, injector clips are tight and new with wire clips and soldered and heatshrunk, I'm running e3 spark plugs, new cap, rotor, wires, cts, rebuilt Turbo (for good measure), and I think that's about it. On the other hand, I tested the injectors for resistance. Primary seemed fine. Secondary? Ohhh, about 1/1000th of an ohm! Have a friend, the previous owner, who had run several setups on his 86 if he had some spares. As it turns out he had 2 pairs: leaky stocks and Delphi 850/880cc 17113743 injectors. Threw in the Delphi set and proceeded to test drive. I almost crapped my pants! New problems. 1) though they didn't at first, the injectors leak a little at the top. I hear f-body camaro o-rings work. Any confirm on that? And 2) though not really a problem, I have done some research and found that I can run delphi 17113814 for primary and Delphi 17113744850/880cc for secondary (683cc and998.5cc respectively). Though not 650/950, its an acceptable 5% increase in volume.
  2. ArsenalFox
    Okay. Tore down the distributor, lubed everything. Replaced vac adv. Timed. Vac advance runs of port 1 of 3. Bypass valve now runs off port of 2 of 3 after it still ran like tail. The most noticeable change occurred after I changed the bypass vacuum port.
  3. ArsenalFox
    Oh yeah. springs are back to normal. Injectors have not been cleaned to my knowledge, but the clips are new and soldered in with heatshrink around the wires. Old and new clips had/have the retainer wires. I'm running E3 spark plugs. I was previously running the NGK BUR7eas?
  4. ArsenalFox
    I backed that screw back out to 1/4 inch. I spent the morning just cleaning gunk out of the dizzy behind the breaker plate. all clean now. During timing, however, I checked the timing with the vac advance hooked up AFTER base timing and noticed no change. I mentioned before that a sticky breaker plate will cause the dizzy to not advance. The other two causes are a blocked vac port at manifold or a leaky vac advance diaphragm. It's not the port (tastes yummy), so I checked the vac adv. After applying light vacuum by mouth, the vacuum bled off. Hope my dealership keeps records for parts returns to vendors. think it was a BWD or Echlin.Might try to see If I can return it through my dealership.
  5. ArsenalFox
    Okay. Here's an update of what I've done so far. Removed cap, rotor, and governor assembly yesterday and lubed properly. Checked basetiming, adjusted. Called it good until I realized that there was more to the instruction manual for the timing light. So I fired up the engine again WITH the dizzy connected to vacuum. 10 degrees btdc. wt....? When I had the cap off and tried to adjust the vac advance screw, the plate seemed sticky. It didn't throw up any flags til I read in the t light manual that one reason for the vac adv to not change timing was a frozen distributor plate. Yeah. Dis is teh sux. Time to go back to distributor 101. Oh, and in regards to fuel pressure. I had always intended to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with built in gauge like my buddys conquest, the one he didn't sell to me.
  6. ArsenalFox
    Had a breakthrough at work tonight. Removed the cap and rotor tonight. After removing the gooey lube that was gumming my governor assembly and lubricating, reassembly, and a small pop followed by a puff of smoke (brakleen igniting), my car showed a marked improvent. However the original problem was present, though slightly diminished. Forgot to mention I heated the springs and tightened them to their 'posts'. Being that the four or five major components combined would cost more than the distributor, I heated should just buy a new one and save myself some trouble.
  7. ArsenalFox
    Had my Conquest for two years and still has the same problem. Though I've replaced alot of the ignition, the original problem is still there. What I'm experiencing is like a miss when I get on the gas at load. The engine stutters and I experience loss of power. Especially up hills (greater load). Now I see alot of people say, 'check the vac advance', but I've replaced it and tested the new one. The engine has been timed, properly, and everything but the distributor itself and the ignitor have been replaced. I'd rebuild it but no one has kits. Any Ideas?
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