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gabea101

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Posts posted by gabea101

  1. 14 hours ago, kev said:

    I wouldn't go higher than a 16G on a totally stock conquest.   And even then, it better be running like new first.   A 14G is optimum and was a dealer add when new.  If you are lucky enough, you can still find OEM Mitsubishi 14Gs but most turbo shops could modify your stock 12A to a 14G...or 16G.    

    When it comes to OEM Mitsubishi turbos, the turbine and compressor wheels are balanced independently from the factory.   I never 'rebalance' a Mitsubishi turbo when rebuilding it.   It's really only pertinent if you start using aftermarket wheels.   

    A popular turbo shop for us, back in the day, was forcedperformance.   They are still around.   Our turbos are no longer up on their webpage (they focus mostly on EVOs) but they have the knowledge and can source the parts to upgrade a factory 12A.   They use to run around the $400 range for a 16G upgrade (in the mid 2000s).  I'd assume inflation probably drove that cost up by a few hundred by now....but it is worth giving them a call.  

    Thanks for the info.

  2. 19 hours ago, randomguy said:

    If you're asking for a bolt on turbo upgrade, it's going to be harder to find. 

    You can check on ebay, a lot of people machine out the compressor housing of the stock 12A and fit in various other mitsubishi compressor wheels. Some people even upgrade the compressor housing too. Mitsu turbos are fairly straight forward to C-clamp off and mix and match, as long as you get 'em balanced when you're done.

    DSM-14B turbos may still be easy enough to find, but the one you're likely going to want is the evo3 16g. 

    Another minor note, aside from clocking the housing and getting the pipes to fit, you may have to make a minor mod to the downpipe flange.

    Stock starquests have the stock downpipe without wastegate hole. (1 hole)

    DSM's and evos use the diamond style ones with two holes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133818987037?hash=item1f283bb21d:g:AbkAAOSwXyla9H-b

    image.png.a3a532e06449a1381749d29a0b662827.png

    Another note, the evo8 and newer use different turbos. Even though they are named similarly, there's an important distinction.

    TD05HR-16G is not hte same as TD05H-16G .  The R stands for reverse rotation, i learned this the hard way ;) 

    A lot of people will hate on the alternate idea, but now a days the "terrible crappy chinese ebay turbos" are not as bad as they used to be. I haven't used one on a starquest, but have on other cars. A bunch of friends use them and have had great results and for a bargain. You can't even get a damaged/used turbo for under 200 bucks, but you can get one from china to your door. https://www.ebay.com/itm/294331324222?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item448783973e:g:6EAAAOSw8k5hV712

    - if you do go this route, make sure you use a restrictor fitting on the oil feed line, as not doing this is the main reason people report their chinese turbos failing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154454145215

     

     

    The turbo ebay link is for a 20g I think.  You said look for a TD05H-16G right?  Will any TD05H-16G work on ebay?  Also will I need another downpipe to work with the diamond plate?  Thanks for the info and links.

  3. Yeah that's weird. I've seen it tuning before as you can get into a spot where the fuel and ignition moving up and down creates a cycle like that but I can't fathom the factory setup doing it. Having said that I'd give your distributor an overhaul to get the old sticky grease out of there and replace the injector clips.

    I already replaces the injector clips to.

  4. Yeah that's weird. I've seen it tuning before as you can get into a spot where the fuel and ignition moving up and down creates a cycle like that but I can't fathom the factory setup doing it. Having said that I'd give your distributor an overhaul to get the old sticky grease out of there and replace the injector clips.

    I will get a new distributor and try that.

  5. as stated before, if the clips don't fix the issue then send the injectors off to be cleaned. Hurst Injector Service is a great place. awesome guy, very good pricing, top notch work, and very quick turnaround. hurstinjectorservice.com. Even if the injectors turn up being fine it's still not a bad thing to have done for reassurance. I mean it's only $35 after payment and the small shipping fee.

     

    - Charles

    I will change the fuel filter this weekend and if that does not help...I will probably contact hurst....Thanks again

  6. Wideband is a Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR) sensor that tells you how rich or lean you are. As suggested above, since you don't have a wideband to check your leanness/richness, check the wiring and secondary injector. Have you replaced your injector clips or are they original? You can buy them from Dad.

    I replaced the clips with new ones but the car is sputtering when I stomp on it....what else can I check?
  7. it's hard to clean them yourself. there's a way you run a strong mixture through them and pressurized and pulse them using a 9v. but it's worth just sending them off to be cleaned. check out Hurst Injector Service. I had him do mine and the guy was AWESOME. I think I paid like $32 and he kept in touch the entire time to give me updates on the progress and he's really easy to deal with. I know he's cheaper than most and he does top notch work.

     

    as for clips, I don't mean to take business from locals and guys here on the forum that serve us well, but I got some EV1 quick disconnects from eBay from the states and they're great quality, they clip and seal well, and it was only $10 for 4 clips with pigtails. it's up to you. I can provide the link for the clips I got if you decide to go eBay route. for the record...Randy sells great products and is a great guy and I support him entirely.

     

    - Charles

    What is the link for the clips? Thanks for the info.
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