SetofAces
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Posts posted by SetofAces
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Running a sale through the end of the weekend on my eBay store; this discount also extends to items not listed on the store, just check out a listing to see my policies/sold parts list, and if it looks like I have what you need hit me up so I can hook you up!
Jon
408-613-6823
jdkparts@gmail.com
stores.ebay.com/jdkparts
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I'm located in Morgan Hill, CA 95037, about 20 minutes south of San Jose, 60 minutes south of San Francisco, and 3 or 4 hours north of LA.
I have this truck listed locally for $3000, but seeing as how I have a soft spot for the starquest community, I'm only asking $2800 here. That's over a grand less than blue book value . . .
This is a good truck, best I've ever owned.
White, automatic, runs good, recent smog, tags good through next year (March I think). Interior fairly clean, has two sony Xplod 12"s that take up the rear seat (powered by a sony Xplod 1000W amp). Has a few small dents and dings (it's a truck, not a cruiser) and a golfball-size ding in the bumper. Chrome dodge rims w/ off-road tires.
154,xxx miles, still running strong! No tach movement at idle.
New radiator, starter, etc. AC BLOWS ICE COLD. Another reason I hate to sell it, it's hot as F*** out here.
I've never used the four-wheel drive except to test it --on the street -- when I bought it to make sure it works. I mainly use it to commute to school, and for the occasional hauling.
Cruise control, lights etc. all work. The cruise control works awesome, speed never wavers even going up and down hills.
Has bed liner, hideaway cargo hooks.
Recent tune-up.
408-613-6823
I hate to part with it, I wasn't lying when I said this was the best truck I've ever owned, but times are tough and I'm broke. looking to buy a POS truck and a small commuter with the money, and pay some bills. Commuter or beater truck (or both!) + cash could work for me.
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The parts in your pics all look the same and white too!
LOL yeah I haven't had a chance to pull and photograph everything yet, I'm in school full-time and taking care of my mom (she's disabled), so I've kinda been handling pics on an "as-interest-is-shown" basis . . .
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Cowls or wiper cowls, and injectors that old should be checked and cleaned by a professional before they are sold as good units.
BC_99
How are they not good if the car runs? But thanks for letting me know what those parts are called.
BTW I've bought and used used injectors probably four or five times now, never had any problems. Rebuilt my second used set after reading similar concerns on the mustang forums, didn't make a damn bit of difference as far as I was concerned (except of course I was out $30 for the rebuild kit!). Just my experience . . .
I have a sale running through tomorrow night on my eBay store, 15% of everything, including parts I haven't listed yet!
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Anybody know what the grill thing that covers the windshield wipers is called? Also, what are stock injectors worth, and should I sell them as a set, or separately?
Thanks to any responders . . .
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Posted a few more parts on the store; I'm hoping to spend Saturday pulling parts, shooting pics and creating more listings, but I'm also parting several motorcycles too and I've been getting calls on them too. Still no sales, despite the fact that I'm doing my best to have the lowest prices . . . maybe just because my eBay account isn't established yet I guess. I was selling under an account I created in my grandma's name before, but stopped using when she passed, if that makes a difference to anyone.
I'm working on a price list and hope to have it posted within the next day or two, as always I try to keep the prices lower than everyone else (sorry everyone else lol -- at least I only have one of everything) but if you see any prices that are way out of line on something that you need, please let me know so we can work out a deal.
--Jon
jdkparts@gmail.com
408-613-6823
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I'm working on a price list and hope to have it posted within the next day or two, as always I try to keep the prices lower than everyone else (sorry everyone else lol -- at least I only have one of everything) but if you see any prices that are way out of line on something that you need, please let me know so we can work out a deal.
--Jon
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I do try to have the lowest prices for good parts on eBay, so I try to beat my competitors' lowest prices, as well as offering package deals and combining shipping when possible. However it's not practical for me to check prices on every single part every single day, so if you see a better deal on eBay and I have the same thing in the same or similar condition, be sure to let me know and I'll adjust the price accordingly.
Thanks,
Jon
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Well . . . not full yet. But it's getting there.
I'm parting out an '87 and selling all the extras I had bought for it on eBay, also through craigslist or however possible. Might be able to get you a better deal if we bypass eBay and save me my overhead -- final value fees and whatnot. Still, at least with the store you can check out what you need and see pics and detailed descriptions. I don't have too much up yet but I'm listing as fast as I can (in school full time) and I'm adding stuff every day, plus you can just contact me directly and see if I have what you need and we can work something out.
Feel free to contact me directly: jonkobobel@gmail.com or 408-613-6823. If you don't get ahold of me please try again, feel free to leave a message and if you STILL don't hear from me try again a few days later. Not that I'm usually so flaky, but I'm parting five motorcycles now too, in addition to school and taking care of my disabled mom, so my schedule is rather hectic at times.
I don't have rims, tires, a good air dam, or tail lights, or a perfectly good running motor, or a nice clean stock MAF sensor. Everything else I pretty much should have; I also have a spare motor I'm going to break down completely, and the motor in the car (even but low compression of 112 psi/cyl, needs the turbo reclocked to use an intercooler or replacement, also needs new timing chain/tensioner/BSE but I have all the parts for it). Also have a NIB clutch slave cylinder; the only other stuff that I have that isn't stock is already on eBay.
--Jon
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If you would like to pick anything up from me and you're in my area, AND you missed my craigslist ads, I welcome local pick up of parts. I'm located in Morgan Hill, CA about 20 minutes south of San Jose.
--Jon
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Hello y'all . . . Sad story: debt has crushed all my hopes and dreams of turning my starion into a bad[donkey] track machine . . . but perhaps there's a silver lining in this cloud somewhere for people who need parts! And I suppose it helps me out too, putting a dent of a couple percent in my debt . . .
Instead of listing what I do have, it'll be easier just to say what I don't have. The car itself is a white 87 widegirl, and I've got a spare block with a cracked head that I'm going to tear down completely. I parked the car about a year ago after a botched MBC install blew my turbo; I put on the turbo from my spare motor (out of a non-intercooled car) but had trouble re-clocking the turbo to hook it up to the IC so I just bypassed it, the car ran like crap and wouldn't make boost for some reason, so I parked it and put it on hold until I afford something awesome like a full MPI build or 4g63 swap, which obviously never happened. Also, the motor had low compression (112 per cylinder, NO variation), and the timing chain tensioner wasn't really working anymore. I bought everything to do a balance shaft elimination and replace the timing chain and whatnot, but never did it -- still have the parts.
Parts I don't have, or have sold already:
Rims and tires
Tail lights
Air dam
Stock MAF sensor
Driver seat without a bunch of rips in it . . . hmm, shorter list than I thought lol.
You'll find it easiest to contact me directly, at jonkobobel@gmail.com, or call me at 408-613-6823. I also just set up an eBay store at stores.eBay.com/jdkparts
I try to price as competitively as possible, based off of eBay prices since they're the easiest for me to research (and the least likely to be fake. I'm sure the starquest community has very few sheisters, but I parted a 5.0 mustang last year and discovered how shady some people are in that community). I aim to beat my competitors' lowest prices on comparable parts of comparable quality, and combine shipping and offer package deal breaks whenever possible.
So, lemme know what you need and let's see if we can't help each other out!
Thanks for looking!
Oh, one more thing: in addition to all the stock stuff, I have an ugly hacked up DSM MAF sensor, a practically new Glowshift boost gauge ($30 shipped), and a dual gauge pod ($40 shipped or $60 with the boost gauge), and a NIB clutch slave cylinder.
Thanks guys!
--Jon
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they are not the same.
but thanks for thinking of me.
i think im just going to polish the hell outta mine ok one.
it only has to last 6-7 months. crossing fingers now.
Hi, I'm parting an '87 and I'm going to break down my spare motor completely. I already had someone ask about the motor, and someone else ask about the crank -- but haven't heard from either (typical craigslist flakes).
Anyhows if you would rather get another crank than reuse your old one, hit me up at jonkobobel@gmail.com, through my eBay store at stores.eBay.com, or call me at 408-613-6823. Of course, it'll be cheaper if it isn't through eBay . . .
Thanks,
Jon
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Having a non-intercooler style turbo on an intercooled car won't make the car run poorly. If it won't idle properly nor drive properly "off boost" it won't get any better when you re-clock the turbo and get the intercooler back in the system. Not having the intercooler will only cause problems at high boost pressures: high boost = high temperatures in the turbo airflow; the intercooler normally reduces those temps. Without the intercooler, those high temps can lead to detonation. But that only happens at high boost... at low boost or off-boost driving having the the intercooler in-or-out won't make a difference.
The above statement assumes everything else is okay: no air leaks, fuel injectors aren't leaking and have decent spray patterns, proper cylinder compression pressures, etc.
mike c.
I'm assuming that there is either something wrong with the turbo (no shaft play though) or that there is an air leak in the intake tube. I finally got the compressor housing off of the bad turbo, so hopefully I'll be able to swap it out this weekend.
As far as other problems, there are many (low compression uniformly about 110 per cylinder I think it was), timing chain tensioner takes forever to take up the slack, etc. these problems were there before the turbo went out, but now it runs worse . . . I know, I know I need to do the timing chain (and BSE and everything else . . . hell that motor really needs a full overhaul) but it can't happen anytime soon due to other projects that are in the way and lack of funds. I'd just be happy to get the sucker running decent enough to get me to school and back so I can off my most recent misfortune, the bucket of an Acura Legend that I picked up on Wednesday (they're nice cars, just not this one).
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I need a turbo, anything from a good condition 12a to a 16g, if it will bolt right up and you got it, let me know. Not looking to spend more than $200-300 (or about $90 shipped for a 12a to 95037).
Also I could use a wideband 02 sensor . . . I guess that's it for now.
Best to reach me @ 408-613-6823 or jonkobobel@gmail.com
Thanks
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Only the compressor housing is different. If the shaft isn't spinning or the turbo is dead it makes noise, smokes or just won't spin and the motor has no power at all because the exhaust can barely get out of the manifold.
That's what I figured, but I can't get that damn snapring off of the compressor housing on the bad turbo . . .
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Okay, so I sold my daily driver; now I'm stuck with two cars that don't run and the shell of a mustang.
So, I tried to fire up the Starion . . . turns out the battery won't hold a charge anymore, but that's the least of my problems.
Last year, I blew up the stock 12a that was in the car originally; after this happened, I put in the spare that I had from a non-intercooled motor that I bought with the car from the local pick-n-pull. It ran horribly, and I never could figure out why; it would make sense for the fuel and ignition maps to be off -- as I had to bypass the intercooler -- but there was a tremendously horrible sound coming from the turbo/motor whenever the turbo would start to make boost. I never narrowed this down to the turbo; I suppose it's possible that it could just be a bad seal between the tube running from the turbo to the TB.
I figured I might start with removing the turbo, and swapping out the compressor housing so that the compressor outlet is in the right place to use the IC again. However, I cannot get the compressor housing off of the old turbo; I bought some (cheap) snap ring pliers, but I just can't get that damn snap ring that holds the bearing section of the turbo onto the compressor housing.
Am I going about this the wrong way? can I even swap out the comp. housing, or is there any way to clock the turbo that is on there now to get it to work?? I need a car ASAP . . .
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Yeah, there are chain and oiling issues. You need to get it running without noise before doing anything else.
There is most likely chain guide material all through the oiling system that you really can't get rid of without rebuilding the engine and cleaning all of it out.
You could replace the cam timing chain, get rid of the balance shafts, new guides and even a new pump and still not have good enough pressure to the head. It certainly needs these parts and work at a minimum, but I suspect that won't be enough and that a rebuild may be in order. Then you could keep the shafts if you want, but I prefer to remove them.
If the gauge is to be trusted, then my oil pressure is fine; it took me changing the oil multiple times after buying the car to flush most of the crud out, but now it reads where it's supposed to.
I have a spare motor; I'm going to check out the bottom end (head and manifold's cracked) and if it's in good shape then I'll eliminate the jet valves, and perhaps have some porting and a valve job done on the head that's on the car now, perhaps install OS SS valves while I'm at it. I'm hoping to do this without even re-ringing the sapre motor, but we'll see; for the moment, however, I just need something to get around in.
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When you started up the motor, timing tensioner got its pressure and was doing its job before the exhaust was exiting the muffler. Someone rebuild the motor and leave the rubber stick out of that plunger cavity? Its will still move out you rev up the motor its not going anywhere.
There is no "vacuum" on the wastegate actuator. Its boost pressure that pushes it open, meaning it pushes the arm OUT (because its a big spring inside that holds it pulled in) and when the boost is high enough to overcome the tension of that spring the arm extends and moves the wastegate flapper arm and swings the wastegate open.
How did you hook that MBC up? If its just a typical MBC and you set it loose and you have no boost gauge (factory boost gauge is electrical fed from the ECU based off sensor readings mainly the MAF and is not at all accurate) then you may have had high boost that resulted in over spinning the turbo and if your oil was dirty, or it was ready to go then that it was did it.
The timing chain rattles until I start to see the oil pressure gauge move up; usually after I start driving or rev the motor a few times.
I have a manual boost gauge hooked up.
The MBC was hooked up to the port on the wastegate actuator, and to the fitting on the intake tube going into the TB (where the wastegate line was originally connected. I assumed that the line was leaking somewhere, as I couldn't hear the BPV/wastegate/whatever activating whenever I chopped the throttle/shifted/etc.
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Will a big 16g bolt right up? I tried searching the forums, but the search here doesn't seem to work worth a damn . . .
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I installed an NXS mbc a few days ago; apparently I wasn't getting enough vacuum to activate the wastegate, because I could hear it, or the bpv, or whatever, working when I chopped the throttle before installing the mbc, but not after I installed the controller.
I thought this was kinda weird, but since I've been so busy with everything else, I let it slide . . . until yesterday, when I heard a loud sound coming from the front of the car while it was warming up after I gave the throttle a slight blip (I was trying to build oil pressure to get the timing chain tensioner to do its job; yes, I do know that revving a cold car isn't a great idea). Near as I can tell, that sound was my turbo breaking; now it has quite a bit of shaft play, so I took it off and tried replacing it with the turbo off of my spare motor.
Unfortunately, I didn't think this one through all the way.
The spare motor is an '86 non-intercooled motor, so the compressor housing points in the wrong direction to use the IC. I figured that I would just bypass the IC for now, until I can get a new turbo (may as well upgrade I suppose), but now it sounds crazily screwed up as soon as I start making boost. The only thing that makes sense to me (aside from a toasted turbo) is yet another vacuum leakk to the wastegate actuator (so it isn't working like it should).
So I suppose I have 3 options: try and swap out the compressor housings (but I don't know how to do that; seems like it shouldn't be hard in theory but I'm having a difficult time getting the housing off of the blown turbo) or try and fix the vacuum lines/leaks (I like the idea of swapping the housings better); buy the ported big 16g that I can get locally for $230 (supposedly genuine MHI, supposedly <3 miles), will this bolt right up?
Or option number three: upgrade my insurance (haha I don't even have insurance) to full coverage and torch the fu**er, then blame it on my ex. Or ninjas. Those dirty, evil, crafty swine; those ninjas. Or maybe I'm talking about my ex? I can't think straight anymore; my turbo aint spoolin no more so now my head is.
Any ideas?
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pulling the engine is way over kill for a non professional first timeror new to cars,, just a 100 more things for them to furbur-- KISS keep it simple stupid
hehe I'm not exactly new to cars . . . I had help, but it took little over an hour to yank my spare motor from the donor car at the junkyard. I know, I know; I'm not going to be cutting everything outta the way this time but still . . .
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If it were me, I'd pull the engine instead of trying to do the job in the car. It'll be easier overall, and easier/safer on your back. How old is the clutch? With the engine out, it's easy to change the clutch and the rear engine oil seal too. You can rent an engine hoist for a couple days for not much money, or buy one from an auto parts store, Craigslist, or Harbor Freight. Removing the engine is not as difficult as you might expect. Getting some of the tranny-to-engine bolts broken free is the hardest part!
mike c.
Thanks for the advice; I was thinking about pulling the motor anyways. Damn, if this were only as easy as replacing the timing chain on my 5.0, I'd be done already.
I blew up my turbo today; looks like I'm going to pick up a (gulp) used big 16g to replace it with. While the motor is out, I'm going to rip apart my spare motor too; the head and exhaust manifold is cracked, so I'm thinking the bottem end might be in better shape (if my logic is . . . logical), so if it is, I may end up just swapping out the entire bottom end and doing a jet-valve elimination. If I'm going to go that route, this will all have to wait a week for me to order parts; though I hate the thought of driving the car any more with the timing chain slapping around every time I start the car up, I have no choice as this car is the closest thing to a runner I've got now . . .
I think my head is going to explode . . .
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How long will it take me to replace my timing chain and do a BSE? I noticed in the instructions for the BSE kit that the oil pump has to be dropped; I've never had this thing apart before, do I have to drop the oil pan to do the BSE?
It's rattling like crazy every time I start her up, though it settles down after I start driving. I tried adjusting the tension in the BS chain; no luck. Of course, my dumb a** had to go slap a 1g MAF and an NXS mabc on it . . . just asking it to blow up lol . . .
I'm trying to figure out how long this would take, as I just sold my other car, making my Starion my daily driver; so if I start tearing into it tonight, I need to know if I can knock it out by tomorrow, or if I should chance it and wait until the weekend.
Thanks
Newly Launched eBay store full of starquest parts
in eBay/ Craiglist notices and alerts
Posted
Hey guys, I'm running another sale on my eBay store. Just 15% off, but keep in mind the prices are already the lowest on eBay (if they're not, let me know and I'll fix that) plus the discount stacks with a 10% discount from buying direct from me, outside of eBay, as well as package deal discounts if you need multiple parts. These discounts also apply to all parts not listed on eBay that I have; check out a listing on eBay for my policies/sold parts list, then hit me up if it looks like I have what you need so I can hook you up.
Jon
408-613-6823
jdkparts@gmail.com
stores.ebay.com/jdkparts