Laodicea

You pulled out the engine and all the misc junk just to paint it?? Oh wait you were doing some other stuff with the engine out.

I have more stuff i can throw in but it will cost extra like: MSD 6A MSD 8920 tach adapter Innovate LC-1 wideband, guage, and the SS4i wich is a device you can hook up to 4 inputs and log it with Logworks software on a laptop...(I have it logging rpm, a/f, and boost) this is how you can fine tune it while reviewing what was logged on several runs or driving or dyno runs that are logged. I can lock your dizzy for you and install magnets in a solid pulley damper if you send them to me. (free)

No this one is not backlit display...I thought of taking it apart and adding my own LED to it...but I didn't. .I would say that the display is a font size of around 14. Example if you were to open a microsoft office doc with New times roman at 14. I can read it easily. To use on the g54b with mpi...I would change the chip on the board and take off a jumper on the board and remove the two extra injector wires/pigtails from the harness. You need a MSD ignition like a 6A (which is what I use). You need a MSD tach adapter 8920...for your stock tach to work. You need to lock your dizzy..(easy) You need to install two magnets on a 83 solid pully for the hall sensor. I have the magnets. I have the bracket for the sensor to fit on the g54b perfectly (i'll double check) You need a ford throttle body or whatever throttlebody you want to use but it uses a ford TPS. You need a gm kock sensor if you wanna use that feature to retard if knock sense. (keeping mine 2...are toyota staying in the 2jz) That is about it..I think

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/SDS/DSC01347.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/SDS/DSC01350.jpg The wire harness coming out from inside http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/SDS/DSC01352.jpg Coming over to the otherside of the engine bay...also the Ford Idle air control is mounted there you see. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/SDS/DSC01353.jpg Nice and clean the harness goes back behind battery area. There is the Ford 4.6 throttle body and TPS sensor. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/SDS/DSC01355.jpg 3 Bar MAP mounted conveniently on top of the pillar...no vibration there from engine. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/SDS/DSC01357.jpg Incoming air temp sensor mounted after intercooler before engine bay so there is no heat soak distorting the temps. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/SDS/DSC01359.jpg

Yes it is for a distributor....I said that

$600 shipped. This is kinda a feeler since I see someone else has posted one up for sale. I just want to use a different computer with the 2jz. Nothing is wrong with this one. This is set up as a 6e running my 2jz making over 500 hp on E85 at the moment (still on the car). It can be converted back to a 4 cyl operation easily. Has both computer chips programmed that can be swapped for 6cyl or 4cyl. It uses a locked distributor to deliver the spark which is controlled by the SDS. I have had this unit for 4 years and used it on the G54B before converting it to the 6 cyl setup. I drove this car as a daily driver. Yes my stock tach works. Comes with manuals Harness Ford IAC (Idle air control) GM 3bar map GM IAT sensor GM Coolant temp sen. Hall sensor and magnets Options on the SDS include Fast idle for a/c sensing/temp warm up. Fan triggers RPM trigger Nitrous/Launch control LED for trouble codes Knock sensing I have maps for gas and e85. pics soon.

No it is in a locker. He was the one of the guys who was in "Pirates of the Carribean" movies.....Remember Davey Jones had a locker...

I cannot tell the difference from when the g54b was in it....but when you are changing lanes fast DO NOT be hitting full boost...half throttle it until you get your tires straight. I have 5 inches of play at my steering wheel so I have to be more careful. I am working on making a manual rack and pinion for it soon...got the stuff just need time to take car apart and fab it...since it is my daily driver.

No man, it is not gone...it worked fine and then stopped a few years ago....and I am just now wanting to fix it.

Thanks Alan...Hmm mine is still a different color and a different source than what is listed. Here are some pics guys of mine and the colors...HELP! This is the fuse panel flipped over. See how that black and red is jumped from the other relay plug? Those are both hot obviously at the same time....and it is hot with the key out of the ignition...just batt. 12V all the time. My green/yellow wire had no continuity with pin 28 on the ETAC ECU harness....it is and has continuity with those red and black wires....makes no sense....and the green /white I have no continuity on neg. or pos. Like it is dead. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/DSC01344.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/DSC01346.jpg

I know that I had lowered my boost down about to 16-18 psi range too.

Ok some of you have read my other post about the AMG E63. Well this was on the same road in the same area but a black CLS AMG 63. I started taunting him when he came up behind me fast. Then before we really got into it..he passed me up fast and then slowed up then I passed him up fast and slowed up...ok we are ready go when the traffic opens up ahead of us. He was infront of me and I was on his tail...the lane opened up and he took off and I followed. I was in 4th gear and stayed in 4th the whole time. I stayed on his tail ...but I wasn't gaining...and he wasn't pulling away. I let off and braked @120...he slowed to a reasonable speed as well but kept on going...I guess he was in a hurry and didn't even know I was there..LOL

Come on electrical guys...does anyone have an updated or an 89 manual that shows the correct wire colors at the relay? I have spent two days trying to figure out how this defogger works and it contradicts the wiring diagram. I have also have two wires at the relay that I cannot account as to where they go....I get zero ohms to ground and zero ohms to positive.

The photograph was taken through polarizing sunglasses and through the rear window of a car. Light from the sky is reflected by the windshield of the other car at an angle, making it mostly horizontally polarized. The rear window is made of tempered glass. Stress from heat treatment of the glass alters the polarization of light passing through it, like a wave plate. Without this effect, the sunglasses would block the horizontally polarized light reflected from the other car's window. The stress in the rear window, however, changes some of the horizontally polarized light into vertically polarized light that can pass through the glasses. As a result, the regular pattern of the heat treatment becomes visible. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8e/Rear_mirror_view_using_polarizing_filter.jpg/300px-Rear_mirror_view_using_polarizing_filter.jpg

The first picture on the top left of the google image search...even though some other ones would have been more fun http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/1109.jpg

After I got all the tint off the back window I noticed this odd pattern a few days later. I did not see in in the next morning or since. I have never seen a window like this ever. Is it because the glass is tempered and the light was just right? This is not a reflection of anything ubove the car. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/IMAG0150.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/IMAG0151.jpg

LOL ok now I want to know what a cart machine is...not those dispensers at the mall.

I don't follow your meaning...bumper music?

Hey I am not posting the car...I posted that because of the wheels..(WHEEL THREAD)..and you posted your video cause you want those green things on your Quest/Star???? Cause of the wheels too right?? NOT!

This one actually has a 5 band...that is why I want it...or I will just get the cheaper 810 model double din for like $160...I have also been debating getting a cheaper single DIN and a 10 band eq. But then I think I would have to get an amp for all the speakers..is this correct? Or can I run preamp from HU to an EQ then from there back to the input of the HU..then the normal 4 channel wire harness HU output to speakers? Does that make sense?

I want it to look tough..like the wheels on this car.

Yes but they got some good offsets deep dish and they look like they go with the lines of the car...similar to stock. Here are the 17" specs. They also have 18",20",22" I pesonally don't like spoke mesh looking stuff or thin 5 spoke. It just seems like it needs to be thick deep dish 5 spoke....but that may just be my opinion and Mits. 17X8.5 5-114.3 Back sp. 4.25 off. -12 17X8.5 5-114.3 Back sp. 5.25 off. +12 17X8.5 5-114.3 Back sp. 5.7 off. +25

I used dem0ntsi as an example cause I had no good side pics of my car to photochop. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/88%20Starion/vtechwarlord.jpg or http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/88%20Starion/moto.jpg

Yes I put some 6.5 4 way pioneer in the rear and have some 6.5 pioneer for the doors...gonna disconnect the dash speakers. I think they are 30w rms rears and 25w rms fronts....I am not gonna put an amp on them...I have an orion 12 dvc with a Boltar VII for that.

This looks good...I think it is brand new because it was not on their website yesterday and I cannot find it to buy. http://mobile.jvc.co...thId=148&page=2