PAFirefighter11

Haha it's here in PA too hmmm...

Beautiful. Nope, I do not. There are approx 4-5 wires that are spliced right now. I think you can somewhat see them in that photo. Some of the wires are the same color w/ the same runner color as well...

Correct. In the photo I posted, is the CTS the sensor where I have the red arrow pointing?

I did this and it ran fine from what I remember. I prob won't be working on the car again 'til Sat when my buddy shows.

Brand new timing chain, lined up at TDC, all valves and such are dead on. Timing is good as confirmed last night with a timing light.

Ah, beautiful. Mine has a port, on the top of the inside area above the glove box. It looks like an OBD port. But it's not? CTS is unplugged, and has been, note this photo: http://pafirefighter11.smugmug.com/photos/622264536_MWxyd-O.jpg It's spliced and not currently connected to anything. The coolant sending unit for the gauge is currently ripped out. I just RTV'd it for the moment so it doesn't spring a leak. The MAF connector is cracked/doesn't have the clip portion. I just put a zip tie on the damn thing to keep it on last night: http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs179.snc1/6733_124162091079_502471079_2897865_4143402_n.jpg With the secondary injector unplugged it runs fine, but does the same rev-limiter deal from what I remember. Hmm, alright. He told me he's seen bad ECU's before 'cause this exact issue, but he hasn't seen the car in person yet. I haven't smelled the exhaust since last week. Every time I did smell it it's smelled somewhat rich. Gotcha on the secondary injector. I'll get a vid of my spray, but from what I remember and could see, it looked like enough fuel was making it to/sitting on the TB flap. My friend confirmed this as well while I sat in the car and hit the gas. I haven't checked the plugs since Thurs/Fri of last week. The white exhaust was back when we first started it up after the rebuild. There was a lot of lube/grease on the new internals, I'm fairly certain it was just that stuff burning off. It did not smell like burning coolant. I've owned too many Mopars in my life, so I know the burning coolant smell very well. I don't think it's the head as the motor was JUST rebuilt and put back together. There are maybe 3 miles on the motor since the rebuild. I'm hoping my Chrysler Tech buddy will be able to get this thing taken care of.... I just want it running ... I want to drive it!

Okay, so here is the latest... When COLD, and I mean cold.. aka first time I come out to start the car after a day or more, it runs great. This happens for approx 3-4 minutes then it either dies or I shut it off. Then when started again, same revving issue where it won't let me above 2000-3000 RPM. Throttle cable has good slack. TPS is good. Timing is good, approx .5* retarded. Plenty of fuel is going into the throttle body at idle, but it looks as though nothing is coming in from the 2nd injector when on the gas. It was hard to see, as it backfired in my face lol. Spark Plugs are still okay. MAF test results... while car is idling Yellow w/ black wire = 5v Red = 10.9v Green w/ red = 5.9v Black w/ yellow = 0v Black w/ white = 8.2v Green w/ red = 4.7v Vacuum lines are good. I replaced any that looked so-so. Routings are all good. Tell me if this is normal: At idle, of the 3 nipples coming off the throttle body, only the 1 closest to the firewall side has good vacuum. The other two have barely anything, if that. I thought the nipples may have been clogged, so I checked. The two end ones are the same depth, the middle one is maybe 1/2" less in depth. I talked to my buddy who is a Chrysler tech via the phone. He said it sounds like a bad ECU/PCM, whatever you want to call it. He is going to come over on Saturday with a SnapOn Scan Tool from work, as well as some other tools and such to check the electronics. Are these cars OBD 1? The connector in the top portion of the glove box looks like it to me, I just wanted to confirm. Would bad ground/power to the ECU/PCM cause this type of issue? Thanks again to everyone, especially you Indiana!

Thanks so much Indiana! I am printing all this out and bringing it with me tonight when I head down to work on the car. Your help is VERY MUCH appreciated!

We set it best we could with a light a couple weeks ago and it misses on 1 or 2 cylinders when it's "timed" - it's running like a car right now at idle going by sound. But I'll have someone else time it. It's real hard to see that little notch on the pulley on this car. I will check that. Just pop off the intake tube by the TB and watch for fuel, correct? We checked the TPS with a multi-meter. It was reading .436 or so. However, no matter which direction we moved it, it did not change voltage at all. Here's a shot of the sensor location... The YELLOW arrow points to what I am assuming is the Temp Sensor Sending Unit for the dash gauge as it's unplugged and my dash has no readout. Single wire. The RED arrow is the Coolant Temperature Sensor for the ECU maybe? I dunno. It's the "T" you are talking about, but that is spliced and not going to anything in particular. The BLUE arrow is to another mystery piece that's got 2 holes where nothing is plugged in: http://pafirefighter11.smugmug.com/photos/622264536_MWxyd-O.jpg I'll check the ignitor box and at least go back to a stock coil if I can't grab an MSD Blaster II. Do you have the P/N for the MSD one? I have an account with MSD so I just need to make a call with a P/N. I only run NGK with turbocharged or nitrous equipped cars They were fouled once before, but not too bad. Light black buildup, smelled like turpentine (bad gas I am assuming). Replaced them with another set of NGK's on Thursday last week. Vacuum was good at the distributor, but you're saying it could be the internal piece not functioning properly? I'll check the injectors and wiring around the, thanks! We're checking compression this week, I hope. Gotta find time to do it now ugh. Smoke was white. That's gone. Smoke was then slightly gray. That's gone now too. No smoke during the last 3 starts as you can see on the video I added to the original post. Thanks again for all the help, I'll post back up once I get a chance to check this stuff out.

Can a bad MAF sensor cause this?

Proved false on Mythbusters or not, I've experienced this in person. My old Wrangler lost the rear driveshaft at 70 MPH on the PA turnpike. Took out my muffler, dented the hell out of my body tub, and did some other damage including breaking the ears off of the driveshaft. It was not fun.

The running rich thing seems to have been the timing. We messed with it a bit more so it's running less rich. We also saw that the TPS was all the way to one side. We adjusted it while the car was running and it seems to run like a real car now, but still can't get it to run above 2000-2500 RPM. The TPS is also flipped opposite of what it looks like in the photos. The wires are coming out of the top of the TPS on the car, and the bottom of the TPS on the diagram. This shouldn't have an effect on anything though, as it's still going to function the same, correct? I did the injector thing, I forget what happened as this was a few days ago. I'll go back and do it today and let you know. Regular electronic connector cleaner will work for the injector connectors, right?

I can take some sweet photos of their ride somewhere... or pay with food too lol. Cash is fine as well if the car starts running right!

Correct. Checked both injectors. Both were reading within spec with the multimeter.

This isn't the line from the oil separator into the oil pan, right?

Thanks guys. I DO have to pass emissions here in PA. They are strict with it. Once I pass the first time I won't have to do it again if I drive under 5K miles. I have a motorcycle and Jeep that I drive all the time, so the Conquest prob will keep under 5K a year.

No one who's knowledgeable with Starquests/local wants to come help get one on the road? ;-)

Thanks for the info. It's routed properly now! WOW, thanks for the Service Manual.. I could've used that last night, but that's awesome. Should help me get this baby running better soon!

So we got the car to idle somewhat well. Not super well, but the best it's been so far. When we are driving or idling it, and try to rev it up steadily, right around 2000 to 2500 it just starts to cut out. It bounces JUST like it's hitting the rev limiter, but is nowhere close! We checked most of the sensors (TPS, injectors, etc.) and all are functioning properly. We were unable to check the MAF sensor on the intake, though. Weren't too sure how to check/what the reading should be. FWIW: There is barely a noticeable difference in the motor when the MAF sensor is plugged in or unplugged. The coolant sensors are NOT wired properly. One (single wire plug sensor) is broken and another (dual wire plug sensor) was just replaced, but is spliced into who knows what. Trying to find a wiring diagram for those sensors as well. Thanks again and sorry for all these posts/questions... I want this thing up and running ASAP! Edit ... video of what it's doing: P.S. Engine shot: http://pafirefighter11.smugmug.com/photos/619563059_B2JX8-X3.jpg

Trying to find a local Starion/Conquest turbo owner who can come look at my ride and help me get this thing up and running! I can pay in beer! hah. Seriously, I've had some of my most intelligent car friends check it out. Turbo DSM and turbo Honda guys who know their s***. We've got it running much better than before, but it's slow moving .. I want this car up now!! So yah, if you're close to 19380 and wouldn't mind heading out this way to check out my ride, let me know :-D

Just like it says, I am trying to get photos of the driver side and front of a basically stock engine compartment. Turbo XS BOV/BPV would be nice too. Trying to make sure all my routings are right. Vacuum diagrams are only doing so much for me. Hi-Res/large photos please! Thank you

On the list, thanks :-D

Thanks guys I REALLY want to get this damn thing on the road. I wanna drive it!! Just posted a tech question related to it. Some of my photo work is here if anyone is curious: http://www.RickRotondoPhoto.com Strang3: I work for Quadratec, so yes I was there lol. Was a fun time. Glad it wasn't 98* like it was in '08. You're a Jeeper too, huh?

Okay, and the separator is that cylinder coming off the side of the airbox, right? The vacuum line is missing from that so it makes sense! Thanks!

Camera phone photo, sorry.. http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs179.snc1/6733_121782411079_502471079_2863027_7709730_n.jpg It's a line that comes out of the oil pan, above the drain plug on the passenger side. It's open to the elements right now. What is it? Where does it need to go? Thanks!