intense98rt

Here's what I did so far. The actuator had a stright arm, so I cut off the threads, put a 65deg bend on it and ran a m6 die over it. Then I took a piece of round rod and bent it 65deg. One side I used the m6 die the other I just screwed on the part that connects to the flapper. To connect the two I cut, drilled and tapped a piece of hex rod. I still need to make a braket to mount the actuator more secure. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/2fast98rt/e7f854b5.jpg

From the clevite catalog; As far as our cars go. You don't get a choice. They only sell aluminum and they don't even make it. They buy it from a company in japan. I had my bearings coated by calico coatings. Same type of deal that clevite has with their triarmor.

i thought they might but wasn't sure.

that picture was from last year. I think the g is shay's not sure who's 240 that is. They pretty much all look the same.

Cars with MPI will shut off the injectors on decel. If you had megasquirt, you could do it with that also.

I'm doing the same deal. I put a 16g with the starion exhaust housing. I am a fabricator so I'm going to make the wastegate that came with the 16g work. To answer your question, having a wastegate that opens near the pressure you want will work better. The wastegate on the srt4 opens at 4psi. If you just put a mbc and set it to 18psi, it will drop off to 15 by redline. Getting one with a stronger spring helps maintain the higher boost pressure.

I know. They have an event once a month. This should be a good event because there is a lot going on. They even have commercials on the radio. Get that motor together and get down here.

Can you pm a price on the tail lights?

Just checking to see if anyone is going. I'm planning on going, not racing tho. My motor has less than 100 miles on it. I'm going to get the pit pass parking. http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Streetwisedrift/SWD-June-Flyer-3.jpg

Car is doing good. I took it for the first drive today from my sister's to my place. About 30miles. Windows down with 94 degree wind blowing in my face isn't that refreshing. Probably not going to make it to pf. When is it?

There is a guy on craigslist selling 12oz cans of r12 for $25. Do you recommend that or switching to r134a? The a/c was working fine before I disconnected it.

What is needed and what has to be done to convert to r134a? I had the a/c lines open for a couple months while I built my motor. It's all back on now so I'd like to fill it up.

sold

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/5775/10002/-1 thats it

When I got my car it came with an autometer phantom narrowband gauge. I bought a aem wideband so I don't need this. $25 shipped.

It came with replacement bushings but they still need to be compressed to fit the bracket. I'm going to try using grease and c clamps.

I'm trying to install the mookeeh sway bars that I just bought. I managed to get the front bolted up after fighting with it for awhile. I'm tried getting the rear on but it's not working too well. I can't get the frame bushings in. Any tips? also, How much should I tighten the endlinks?

If its just the ring left then use a little hack saw.

I have 10w40 in it. BSE also

anyone?

I know there are a few posts but I can't find them. I just put in my rebuilt motor. Everything's fresh. I'm using an electric autometer gauge. It shows about 80psi cold idle at 1200rpm and 50psi warm idle at the same rpm. If I rev it up a bit, it will go over 100psi. Is that normal?

Would it effect anything if I unplug the stock o2 so I can use that bung for the wb? I have a catless 2.5" turbo back.

What differences is there? I tried searching the ajusa website but it wasn't listing x10079200. I think mine had the x on it. When I got the set, I looked at everything and compared it to what you have pictured on your site.

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ that's where I got the gasket set.

sounds good. I had the same clutch in mine too. it Should be fine.