deez

Sold. Time to get my Austin Healey.

New pics available if wanted, pm me

ttt

Here is what I have done to it so far.... the wheels were polished and have new BFG tires. The interior went through an extensive cleaning, including carpet cleaning. Bugs like the squeaky window regulators, slow moving seatbelts on the tracks, rattling horn button, have been taken care of. The Marnal head was installed with 1mm OS stainless valves, Ajusa metal head gasket, new exhaust manifold which I ported, ported the turbo exhaust housing, all new hardware, rodded out the radiator, new hoses, thermostat, plugs, rotor, cap, wires, u-joints, and other odds and ends. On the way are a new mast for the antenna, fuel filters which will hopefully be installed next week. I also have a braided oil feed line for the turbo not yet installed.

bump

As much as I love these cars, that thing is roached and ready for another life as a toaster oven or whatever they can recycle it into.

I wasn't planning on flipping it, but I have an opportunity to get a relatives Austin Healey Sprite, which I would much rather have. The Quest is a very nice car, no regrets on buying it. I just have an opportunity to get something much more fun.

The car will get rarely driven if I decide to keep it, so I'm not worried about the dirt aspect. I just don't want to burn my butt. My Galant VR4 has black leather and it cooks here in the summer.

Those are nice! I may have to pick them up, as long as they will clean up that is.

I own this car now, and its running and getting fixed up. But I am looking into selling it, so if anyone is interested, PM me. It now has a Marnal head from DAD, new exhaust manifold (ported), the turbo is a 14B (newer and ported), tons of maintenance parts replaced, polished wheels, new tires. $4000 for it.

Does anyone have a pic of the tan cloth seats found in 88's? I am thinking of swapping my beat leather for a pair of these, but they are a long ways away and I don't want to do the drive if they look like butt. Post em up!

I agree, do all the "normal" maintenance stuff, then address performance upgrades. And do everything, belts, hoses, coolant, cap, rotor, etc. Then look up racetep.com for a rebuild on your struts, and for ebay goodies check out http://stores.shop.ebay.com/101propose_STA...634Q2ec0Q2em322

Okay, so this is common so I figure someone out there has a fix. The seat bottoms on the 88 and 89's has the problem with the spot that buckles and points up and pokes your arse. I looked into it a bit, and it appears there is a plastic strip sewn into the leather that is the culprit. Now, is there any way to fix this other than recovering the seats?

Is there somewhere we can download a complete Mitsu parts catalog for our cars? It would be nice to have exploded diagrams and part numbers.

I am looking for the seat rail assembly for an 88's drivers seat, the inside rail with all parts (pin, etc.) Parts must be in good shape and not sloppy, thats why I am trying to find another. And its gotta be tan. PM me if you have something. Thanks

It actually was in there correctly. As I look at it more, the holes in the tracks that the pin fits into is worn. So I need to find a tan drivers inside track I guess. PM me if you have the part.

Okay, its been pissing rain so I am working out the bugs on the 88 I just got. Which I think I am going to sell when I get all the bugs out, so check out my profile for the red one and let me know if you are interested. Anyhow, the drivers side seat has some fore and aft movement when sitting in it. I just pulled the seat and it appears the locking pin with the spring on it is worn, which is allowing for a bit of slop. Anyone ever done a fix on this? It appears to have slop where it fits into the rail as well as the guide portion of it. Thanks

So like most of these cars, the antenna is broken on my 88. I took it apart today and sure enough, the nylon strip that extends the antenna is broken. Anyone out there have the parts to fix this? And it appears the strip is anchored into the antenna. I'm not sure if its supposed to be like that, or if it will pull out of there with enough tugging. Info on that would be appreciated. Thanks

Got it. I didnt want to get rough with it. But I did, and it came apart. Thanks

The center horn portion of the steering wheel rattles like hell, so I was going to pull it apart to fix it, but I can't see how it comes apart. I found the one screw in the backside of the steering wheel, but its still won't come apart.

Can anyone tell me the torque spec for arp headstuds? Thanks

I have arp studs, torqued to the arp spec, whatever that was, I don't recall off the top of my head. I have not retorqued, so I guess that is my next step. The only thing between the torque wrench and the socket was a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, no extension. The head was torqued in the correct sequence. I agree, I should do a compression test, just to see the condition of the old motor. I think I will get gauge today. Any other input??

The head gasket blew into cylinder 2, and judging by the mileage (166k), the rust colored staining of the coolant passages, my assumption was coolant that went very acidic from not being changed. I did have the radiator rodded out, new coolant hoses, and new thermostat, so the cooling system is working fine. And I did check the fans, all good there.

Also, is the only oil passage to the head the one at front left that goes thru the bolt hole?

But enough moisture to cause steam to come out the valve cover? Or maybe I am seeing blowby and smoke associated with that?