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Joel

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Everything posted by Joel

  1. Its not constant on, otherwise the fuel maps would be a 2 stages on/off switch. It is pulsed (both injectors). You can't tell with the engine running as well as if you pulled out the dist, turned the key to the on position, and spun the dist... You will see/hear when both the fuel pump relay and the injectors are triggered by the ECU. Joel
  2. to retard the timing with boost you just retard the timing up each RPM map. You can configure a very nice and configurable "boost retard" that way. "Full advance" should take place by 3000RPM, 30Deg Full advance, then knock the timing back from 4-5psi up from there by a deg for each bar all the way up. Ignore the "boost retard" feature, IMO, because it slams the ignition advance down and the car will pick up like a dog. Sorry I hadn't gotten back to you, Send me your email addy and I'll send you a configured map to look at/use/copy or whatever you like. As far as the dist trigger angle, If you dont get any responses just set it for 50-60 deg, then start the car (if it will) and put the timing light on it... adjust the value of the trigger angle while the car is on (and the timing lock is on at 10deg) until you line it up with 10deg. If it says 15BTDC on the light, add 5 deg. to the trigger angle value. If your timing is 5BTDC add 5 deg to the trigger angle value. Keep in mind, if anyone here has done this that you timing could be off still by as much as 15deg (+/-) unless you time it like that mentioned above here. It depends on where on the dist. mount slot the dist. has been installed. Joel
  3. haha. Yeah, Standalone computers suck, we should have opted for a chip and if we run out of injector before 300whp on a set of 440cc/min injectors, we'll just add an FMU... the sky is the limit "yo". Joel
  4. Well, I'm going to have to agree with ST61. I'm gonna have to can this. Obviously certain people can't read, or chooses to do so via precise selection. The last response from one of the selective readers was it for me, similar to speaking to a peice of drywall. I don't have anything to add to the main topic of discussion here, as we (Darrell and I) are a long way from attempting to install the dual fuel railed manifold by Chad. I already can "see" leaks, which either means it will be replaced by a magna or it'll have to be fixed. I have a magna, and I'm happy with its basic (and "aftermarket") functionality.. And I could afford it. Joel
  5. ST61, That isn't relavent. I have a very expensive digital fuel test kit which is supposed to be very accurate. If I hook it up on my 75lb MPI rail, you don't see those fluctuations. there of coarse would HAVE to be some pressure drop, but not enough to see. If your injectors are to large for the fuel rail and feed lines, you would see this as an issue. If you on very large injectors, and sequential fuel injection you may require a pulsation dampner or reduce the frequency via batch mode. If your fuel pump is inadequit, again you would see this issue. Fluids don't compress well at all as they are already near max denisty. That is one of the prime reasons you don't see the fluctuations at the rail, as the volume in the rail, and the pressure are more proportional to the amount of flow on the feed side of the rail. Joel
  6. Don’t worry too much about it Chip. Obviously the guy is trying to stretch things out to be smart on the Internet. We all know he's full of it when he talks about a "Modified chip" ALL of which these chips have been used on your selection of 13Bs, 3800 IIs, 3800 GNXs, SVO 2.3s, in which they all had the same "tune" for 10psi. First, I'd like to see this. I hate to call people out, but I hate having my ear (or eyes) filled with smelly brown dirt. Why would you tune a chip to only 10psi, and then move the boost up? Who (please list specifically WHO) makes chips for 13B's, 3800's, and SVO's. Next, he talks about using a 1:1 NOW, when earlier "That wasn't necessary"... He also speaks as if he knows what he's talking about as if 1:1 was "the standard FMU" setting he used. BS. This one stumped me... I feel like beating my head against a large stone with a pointy edge..."Which makes sense, if pressure never drops, flow will remain constant"... He still doesn't get it; the pressure never drops, but its NOT constant pressure, it goes up! Conceptually, this isn't that hard to understand. Theoretically, it makes sense. Then we go on about how he "I will freely admit that I have not worked on the 'Quests". Oh boy, the quest is THAT much different? Aside from TBI injection (which, by the way, isn't THAT huge of a difference when talking about how a fuel injected turbo car works) there isn't much difference from say... a DSM, or an SVO. If you know anything about turbo cars, this wouldn't even be an argument at all. We are NOT discussion how you would "Circumvent a fuel system" in the event that larger injectors were not available. We are talking about a full and properly fuel injected MPI that has enough injector to take on the power goals. Then last, we single out Chip, because chip said "Hey, your wrong". Then Chip attempts to explain himself several times. Then we say something like " I always see more then 1 option" when in fact you live in a damn box. You believe everything is right if you and that knowledge are inside your "box". Inside-the-box style thought processing usually leads you to the Antonymous meaning to the phrase "I always see more then 1 option". Then since we can't win with Chip on technical topics, we attack him for the very topic at hand, which is about Chad's Intake Manifold. Chip did not "repeat" you. Likewise, I do find statements like "This was to settle any possible issues still floating around" bothersome. You are assuming you are right, and were doomed for an argument the moment you learned how to get on the Internet and post messages. I've had friends similar to you, where you think you can walk and talk about how your ideas make sense to you, so therefore they also make sense to everyone else. Another prime example of blind in the box style thought processing. Your in your own world dude, and no one is going to ever see it you way all the way. You will likely have a heart attack or a stroke before the age of 45. Calm down, this is the United States; we are all full of opinions, before raising your blood pressure, understand there are thousands of people like you, whom believe everyone else should believe what they believe in and they are of the opposing opinion to you. Joel
  7. An interesting thing to note is when making changes on the Haltech (and I've heard others claim the same with the same or other brands of ecu/injectors) is the base idle time. For instance, you can make percentage adjustments... say across the board to the fuel maps in the haltech. When you increase injector size by 25%, you "lean" the map out roughly 25% to get you in a similar ballpark (you of coarse have to retune still, as that method isn't perfect). However... You should not do that for the idle settings, as there usually is little change. Injectors don't like to low of open times, or they start to fail. 1.2-1.6MS seems to be the general "rule" as the lowest PW MS settings you can run. Anything about 1000cc's and up on this motor is going to idle real nasty. My 787cc (75lb'rs) are cutting it close, but I've not had to much issue running low PW times, and getting the mixture right for low timing settings like you have at idle. Joel
  8. <insert buzzer noise here>.. I know I will likely be included in the argument now, but you are wrong. a "Well Done System" Will see no changes in FLOW via pressure changes. In order to do so (keep the flow the same) on a boosted car, you MUST increase the pressure relational to PSIA, but the real thing is the pressure DIFFERENTIAL (i.e. the rail pressure vs. intake pressure) is kept CONSTANT. That means, for every pound of boost in the intake manifold, you MUST rise 1lb at the rail. The reason for this is so you can actually MAP the fuel values, otherwise your ramp rates in the lookup tables would not be consistant over the pressure/air flow values. If you ran 20psi+ on a fuel system like that, you would need 1200cc+ injectors to support the fuel requirements. Thing of it as a differential value, not a PSIA (absolute) value. If you run 20psi of boost, and 27 psi of fuel pressure, you have 20lbs of pressure sitting behind the injector, meaning your fuel injector flow rates are very similar to that of running 7psi rail pressures under vacuum. And if you don't use a 1:1 boost compensating fuel reg. the "tuning" problem is EXACTLY the same, but the issue is... if you leave it constant, your essentially reversing your "FMU" solution. Imagine your running a turbo car at 10psi, and you DECREASE the fuel pressure as boost comes up... Thats what you do if you don't change the fuel pressure with boost. No, it seem you MUST be right, and can't listen to Chip. But what do I know, I don't know anything about tuning cars, building them... or anything like that... Chip doesn't either Joel
  9. I'm using them with a Haltech/Magna without issue. I have another set that I'm selling (friend bought them for his miata but they dont fit). Never been used, $235 + shipping, or $250 shipped (your choice). Let me know if you interested. Joel
  10. The most ideal combustion chamber I think would include quench pads... something none of the aforementioned heads can offer. Joel
  11. The limitation of maximum RPM is only a speed bump as far as the valve train. The real limitation of maximum RPM is a function of motor geometry and how often one likes to rebuild their motor. The valve train can already be upgraded to sustain 12000+, but the bottom end would come apart. Multipurpose cars are what I long for, but usually it makes compromises. You will get an OK drag/road race/autoX car, or you will build a car that will specialize and dominate in one of those classes. This is borderline dragrace/race only setup, and not really a street car. Even if you did make it into a roadrace car, your classing would stick you with people you'd spend years catching up to... not that a challenge isn't good. Not any fun to cruise around in a car that wont roll the windows down, has tons of road noise, etc... Of coarse it isn't my car. I wouldn't lighten the rear either, but the front I would pay more attention to. Aside from 2 or 3 starquests (or starquest based vehicles) and none of those a member of this site... I dont know one SQ'r that has a fast enough car to meet the 5-10 pass wonder class... Yet. Joel
  12. I love my haltech. But I will tell you this... Support SUCKS! Haltech USA is no longer, and it's hell finding a local dealer in the states because they are all jumping ship. with that said, Haltech AUS is real cool... IF you have a nice international calling plan Use at your own risk. I can answer some questions, but some you might be on your own to deal with Haltech Aus. Joel
  13. I decided from the get go to install a crank trigger as I felt aweful about ruining a perfectly good distributor. Seems to work good I used the SDS Crank trigger with my E6K. If you all need to get ahold of me, you'd have better luck on www.tristarion.com or emailing me at joel@tristarion.com. My car is running great, although I have some problems with a DIS setup due to weak spark. I to run 15psi looks like I'd have to run a .020" gap. I need a stronger ignitor/coil setup then the Rx7 TII setup I hijacked. I will certainly be able to give a base map away, but a fully tuned map is all on your head. I will not be responsible for someone blowing up their car. The base map will only get you started, no WOT pulls. Joel
  14. If your using DIS packs that have 4 wires (2 for each coil) let me know... I'm using the stock tach feeding off the -ve side of both coils using a simple circuit. Joel
  15. Clap for yellow, he did it (and gave it to me months ago) and I Just got it online at tristarion.com (as of yesterday). Joel
  16. The e-manage (which I've played with on a few occasions)... Sucks Everyone whose had one that I know has sold it for either an AFC or a standalone. Plus, the e-manage can't convert your TBI into MPI... and it's still alot of money to spent. Joel
  17. Backpressure is bad, under all circumstances. Unfortunately you need gas VELOCITY, which has a side effect called backpressure. Sure, its a matter of symantecs, but a good thing to recognize correctly. Joel
  18. Thats a wierd lookin dress those dudes have on. Joel
  19. JasonC... I would be more interested in if you could get a timeslip than dyno numbers. Will you be able to make it sometime this season? Dyno numbers are impressive, and hopefully the dyno was right... That means alot of us have alot to look forward to Joel
  20. K, I'm officially stupid. For some reason I get up this morning and I can read? an ON CENTER housing... I just coulnd't see what was meant there... My apologizies. Joel
  21. I keep reading this one, and I don't get it? I say it aloud and I still can't make sense of it... ...an on center turbo housing... hmmm. I don't know <shrug>... Joel
  22. I read your question like 5 times, and wasn't sure what the question is... I think your missing a word or two in this part: Joel
  23. Yeah.. The theory is that since you divide the housing 1&2/3&4, you will be able to capture even frequencies all the time rather than the alternating frequencies a 180 opposed 4 cyl will output. The pressure frequency averages will be high for each rotation. Should help spool, not to mention I would imagine it keeps the velocities higher (although this is a horrible inefficient way to achieve higher velocities if thats your goal). The only expense is frictional air flow loss due to the greater air/surface contact patch in the exhuast housing inlet. Joel
  24. Yeah, things get real screwed up when you use an EMS and then use Variable fuel pressure Gets real hard to tune. Use a 1 to 1 so the pressure differtential stays they same (Boost pressure on one side of the injector vs fuel pressure on the other side of the injector). Joel
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