Joel

You have to have a home trigger on a cam angle sensor for sequential injection. Joel

You are welcome to setup a time when your near the car and call me. I will tell you the settings that should get you going over the phone. I can get the car likely pretty drivable like that. You should still have my phone number. Joel

20 minutes, 2000RPM and the cam is never gonna break in more than that. Keep it there for 20minutes to keep the oil pressure up. Joel

Hmm... Well, at least now I know you have no idea what you are talking about? My intention was to inquire for knowledge, not get a useless reply back. I was not trying to offend. Apparently I did. Welcome to the internet, eh? Thanks for your response. Joel

Please cite examples. "Kidney shaped inlet ports" are generally used on DOHC heads where there are two valve ports siamesed into one external (larger) port. The onset of detonation would likely never be influenced based on a kidney shape alone. Thats like claiming that one set of wings works for all airplanes. You can't build the wings... or the airplane independantly. Just doesn't work that way. I would really like to know where that information came from. The Combustion chamber is a different story. Unless you KNOW what you are doing.. or have alot of money, stay away. I am one that will be doing a 3rd gen magna. Those combustion chambers are better... but far from ideal. Joel

try again, that link does not work. Joel

1. Magna shouldn't have a spot for that thermovalve. If it does, don't install thermovalve, just find a plug with the correct thread. 2. Take EGR Stuff, throw in trash can. No need to plug what isn't there. 3. Read above. 4. No such thing as a "TPS Solinoid", but thats part of the EGR Control. Read #2. 5. SDS (or usually ANY aftermarket ECU) will not like the ISC. They have no provision for it, as its VERY non-standard. Buy a 3 or 4 wire (or whatever SDS supports) IACV solinoid or stepper valve. I prefer the soliniod, but its really up to what SDS supports. 6. Not sure what that is, but don't use the stock harness anyway. If you unplug the harness side, take the stock ecu out, the harness side connectors do nothing. Just wire in SDS to the sensors you need (which should be provided in their kit). Do not use stock sensors if they give you a replacement in the kit... they have greater resolution and/or calibrated to the SDS unit. Joel

Those are Delphi injectors. They fit many different cars. Joel

Im pretty sure I COULD tune these to pass emissions. Not sure I want to. If they do any sort of visual inspection, they will take one look at your wastegate and fail you on the spot. Otherwise, an easy fix would be to just throw on a stupid dummy pipe/filter on the TB, you won't be builting boost so no worries about that thing opening. Most emissions tests won't rap out the car enough to build boost anyway, they do like a 2500 rpm test and an idle test IIRC. Joel

Same ones I have. Joel

I run 75lb (787cc/min) and have solid idle... doubt it would pass emissions Joel

Bah, CT26 is a POS. Not worth the R&D to fit a minimal upgrade on a car like this. Buy a 16G and call it a day, it'll be cheaper and faster. Joel

try this: Step 1: Buy Westech Step 2: Place in Ex. Manifold Step 3: Tune it on dyno Step 4: Notice EGT Step 5: Richen and lean it out and notice EGT Difference... Take note of EGT.. Place back to step 3 tune. Step 6: Mount in DP Step 7: Richen and lean it out and note EGT difference, same as step 5. Step 8: Take note the EGT Temp delta is relatively the same... except the temp range is shifted down a couple hundred degrees Step 9: Send check or money order to myself for saving you from buying turbo after probe snaps and your done. Fact: EGT cannot be used to dial in fuel curves, but CAN tell you if the tune has changed from a known point. You can use an EGT in place of a wideband if you like replacing Engines and turbochargers (unless you buy nice stock in EGT probes, in which it is just engines that you will replace). There is a number of things that effect EGT temperatures. EGTs can go lower, or higher, if you mis-adjust the timing to advanced or to retarded. EGTs can go lower, or higher, if you mis-adjust the fuel to lean or to rich. EGTs can go lower, or higher, if you have a really bad exhaust setup (PV=nRT) and have to great of backpressure. EGTs usually go real high to real low if you detonate, but not always. So, in the end, relaying on one datapoint for tuning a car would be a bad idea. Buy a wideband, use the EGT to tell you if something is wrong (via a connection in the DP)... or buy a REALLY slow probe and replace it annually at very least. Joel

Yours or Niels going bad or something? Mines just fine so far. Joel

I do I run MS Virtual PC, installed ME inside that.. So, I boot XP, login, load virtual PC, boot that up... haltech ready to go. Joel

I'm running a Napa fuel pump (255lph) without issue. It's a stock replacement. Joel

Someone actually needs to make some power to require replacement of a transmission don't they? Joel

E6A is no longer for sale as far as I know. It's E6X or E11. E6X is the predicessor of the E6K, which is the predicessor of the E6A. The E11 is windows based and offers even more options. I believe MSRP on the E11 is ~1500, and the E6X is ~1200. Joel

Yeah, I'm not so sure he cares for me, due to a difference of opinion. He's a top notch guy as far as knowledge with tuning amongst other things. I would love to sit down with the guy and talk some year. I've had one phone conversation, in which we talked about high end ignitions for more money than I can afford. I know he's right on the money, but my wife would have me shot if I told her I dumped 2k on a ignition for my car. We'd have to go hungry for a month or two, hehe. ...Sometimes you take short cuts to get somewhere cheaper. I know in the end it'll cost all the same, but I gotta have fun in the meantime. Joel

BMEP, as far as I recall, is a 1 man place (Brian). Smart dude, knows what he's doing. Only thing with him is he's very blunt and rough around the edges at times. I would be real interested to see how your car comes out with him doing the tuning. Joel

Be aware, I have not proof of it yet, But I think you'll need more injector than any of those charts tell you. Most of them assume a .55-.65 BSFC, and I personally think we are getting lower than that (like .45). These machines aren't known for their extremely high efficiency. I'm seeing right now on my 800cc/min injectors points in which I require 45% or more above 4000rpm to maintain a 12.5:1 AFR as reported by my wideband/datalogging. I dont feel that at 15psi on a 16G that I'm making much more than 250hp, especially at 1 mile up in altitide. Just keep it in mind. 400hp would certainly be within a 750cc-800cc injector. Joel

I've got both the Chrysler and the Mitsu pumps and oil pans, pickup tubes. There is no difference from those two. However I know there is a difference between the turbo and non-turbo. Joel

The Haltech has 32 load points and, 22 rpm ranges in 10,500RPM Mode. Thats 704 Load points. Adjusting 450 of those load points for fuel and then ignition means you visit over that tune, at least 900 screens (and likely more) on the SDS. I can zip into one rpm range, tune a low load bar, then a higher load bar, slap the bars in between down below the two on either side, hit a hot key to smooth the map. Now all I have it fine tune adjustments to make inbetween, as I just pretty much marked everything else on the map close to what it will be. I like the compatibility as well. Haltech's will install on virtually any vehicle without having to purchase crank triggers/sensors unless you have special requirements and change the ignition system around like I did. It would have worked without issue if I kept my stock dist. I've updated my E6K to a newer firmware, so just like the new E6X it does boost fuel cut off, dual mapping (you can have 2 fuel maps stored/tuned in the ECU for different gas etc, then either use laptop or flip a switch to switch between them). It will do Sequential injection, staged injection, batch fire, multipoint. It will do Waste spark, Distributor, COP if you really wanted. It does altitude correction (not needed when using a MAP sensor), TPS load mapping if you care for that (I use the MAP sensor, which is more common). It supports high or low impedence injectors. In fact, as long as you put the injectors on seperate channels, you can mix and match them. You also have a Trim control input which you can use for any one of the following (and you can change it on the fly with the laptop for any reason). This allows you to change the map based on a percentage of the current map location. Fuel (fine) Trim - Potentiometer of 10k type, fine adjustments of -12.5% to +12.5% Fuel Fuel (Coarse) Trim - Potentiometer of 10k type, fine adjustments of -50% to +50% Ignition trim - Potentiometer of 10k -8 degrees to +7 degrees Boost Control - When using wastegate control open, adjustment for duty cycle. You also have the Spare A/D, which can be used for another Trim knob of the above, or any of the other following features: General - Input any 5v source for datalogging. Baro sensor - Altitude corretion on TPS load based cars Exhaust Map Sensor - For datalogging Aux RPM Limit - Basically, built in studder box (lower the RPM for launching RPM) O2 Sensor - Like a wideband, or standard O2, for datalogging. Then you have an Aux IN function, which allows any of these features: Nitrous Input (must use Aux OUT for nitrous output to solinoid) TCC Input - Torque convert lockup control for automatic trannys Turbo Timer - I dont use it for this, but if you don't have a use for the rest and have no turbo timer, here ya go. Anti-Lag Switch - Builtin "bang-bang ALS" built in. You can use this at your own risk unless you have a special turbo to take the beating. Flat shift switch - Allows you to hold the throttle open while shifting gears and not overrevving the motor. This is achieved with an on-the-fly drop in ignition advance by 15 degrees. Closed loop O2 control for gas milage, as well as a Decel cut off (pretty standard shiz there). You can use an idle speed motor of almost any type (aside from out stock ISC, but not hard to rip one that will work off a chevy. On the typical Batch mode Distributor car, you would have 6 outputs left when all is wired up as far as the digital and PWM (pulse width modulated) outputs. You can use these for a ton of different things like some mentioned above, and also: Dual Intake valve solinoid VTEC (or anything needing RPM engagement) Torque converter control Thermofan Intercooler fan Shift light Aux Fuel Pump Staging signal ...And others They also include zero and full throttle maps (in case you have interesting cams). I dunno, I probably sound like a sales guy. I don't think anything I buy would do anything less, even if it's not a haltech. Just thought I would post this up for a read or two. It really is down to personal preference. Joel

The self tuning features are excellent for cruise tuning, but I would never use it for WOT tuning. Joel

I have no stock ECU in my car. Everything works fine. Joel