Joel
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Posts posted by Joel
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Are you sure that is a 14g? Judging by the opening and the intake wheel, it looks as though it is a 12a. Can you provide me with some proof that it is a 14g? How many mm wide is the intake port on the front of the turbo?
You are right. My fault as I did not identify it properly. It was supposed to be a 14g, but it's not.
Joel
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Uhhh, for some reason, i can't see any pictures on Tristarion. :oops: Any ideas? I am still very interested in that turbo you have.
You have to have an account/be signed in to see attachments there.
I can email pics if you don't want to do that, just tell me what you want to see.
Joel
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im definately interested in the 4g63 arp head studs.
Whats the adapter plate for, narrow block to wide block, something else?
If no one buys the complete engine w/ arps, you got first dibs.
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TURBO NOW!!! 14 G correct?! not a 14 B! Pics, Elkidminoltu@yahoo.com. I'll take it!!
Yes, 14G not 14B.
Joel
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im definately interested in the 4g63 arp head studs.
Whats the adapter plate for, narrow block to wide block, something else?
Adapter plate is for this 4g63, a narrow block from a DSM, to adapt to a starion trans.
Joel
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Selling a 4g63.
Lower-end still together, about 75,000 on it.
Top end still together as well.
You will have to put the manifolds on, and put the head on.
I also have an adapter plate w/ most of the hardware to install it (you need to had an extension welded on to the TOB race on your transmission for it to work). It's 1/4" thick T6061. I was told by an ME major that it SHOULD hold up to my original goals of 400-500hp, but there of coarse is no garuntees, use at your own risk. I paid $40 for just the T6061.
$400 for the engine & related parts, tack on $40 if you want the arp head studs too. I am including a spare head casting with missing cam towers (tanked and pressure tested) for free.
$80 for the adapter plate and hardware.
Taillights for both the conquest and the starion, both right a left hand sides. $20 ea.
14G turbo, unknown miles, didn't smoke when it came off the car. $100 OBO -- CORRECTION: 12A stock turbo, was supposed to be a 14G. Make offer.
**SOLD** Stedebani Suspension bushing kit $150 brand new.
85 and earlier HVAC controller (you know, the digital one that adjusts your temp) $15.
All prices DO NOT include shipping. Respond here or email me (joel@tristarion.com) if interested. I'll try to get pics soon.
Joel
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Well of coarse it does!
Joel
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Sellers beware: I would not recommend selling (or buying) from this man. He sounds very friendly, even on the phone, and even pays for the parts. When he receives the item(s), he claims he’s happy.  That is, unless he ends up paying over the bargain price you gave him, to have some additional and non-inclusive parts or machine work done. Once he comes to that realization, he (instead of any type of rational communication with the seller) starts to bagger the seller with nasty emails or PMs claiming the seller (in this case myself) a “rip-off artist.†Kev continually mentions that he had to pay over the bargain price of your sold item to achieve his personal desired results. After you tell him it was a bargain, and not worth even selling the item if any further price reduction is set, he will claim he never asked for a dime. Kev isn’t even clear about what is wrong with the items received, and doesn’t even try to respond in a timely fashion. He continuously, but not on any specific timeline, makes absurd dishonest claims about the seller. He attempts to make others feel bad for him by making claims about Caveat Emptor, or buyer beware of the financial risk. He has made no effort for any type of friendly or rational communication after the sale was made and the parts were received.
The parts I sold him (and engine, minus the head, with forged pistons and an unknown quality of machine work) were sold to him with a warning that the machine work may or may not be correct, as I had not made any effort to assemble. Given that, there was no “Ready to Assemble†line in the sale at all, he claims it was more to him then simply a pile of engine parts in which the terms of sale were conditioned. The engine was sold, crank/motor/rods/pistons/rings/rod pins for a bargain price of $625. The items were made available separately by the time of the sale, and Kev chose to purchase all of them. No claims were made that the items fit together what so ever.
Thanks for your time,
Joel
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What kinda of ECU are we dealing with?
If your using a distributor and not the stock ECU to control timing, you don't want the mechanical advance or the weights in the sitributor at all.
Vacuum sources in the Magna are done with a drill, tap and some hose barbs.
Joel
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You have to mount it as they say. Mine mounted at 16" back from the turbo outlet is still a little to close. Some days after I shutdown heatsoak disables the sensor at startup if the car sits for less then 10 minutes.
Narrowband o2s are useless for tuning. Wideband should be used only.
Joel
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I was wondering if all the orders shipped etc? I would like to know when to expect the box so I can arrange someone to be here at home.
thanks,
Joel
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Your likely running to rich. Thats what it sounds like. Try increasing the fuel where the problem exists in the map substancially, and see if the problem gets worse (The same, but worse), and that'll give you a hint that its to rich and to lean it out.
Check and make sure you don't have to high of a throttle pump setting.
Joel
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Yes, the Haltech will do TBI.
The haltech DOES have wideband inputs, but you STILL have to buy a control box/wb02. You CANNOT hook a wb02 to almost any aftermarket ECU directly. It requires a box which calibrates and keeps the sensor at a specific temperature.
You can get an Innovative, or a PLX for ~$350. I use an innovative on my car, but have used a PLX on another one. Both are good units.
Joel
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The solid pulley can be had cheaper at Conicelli (I got one for $35)
www.partznet.com
Joel
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What quarter mile times are we talking about?
Whats this about not being able to get the power to the ground with the stock trans? Why is that?
And what could you possibly get for a computer thats only $450? A Megasquirt?
Joel
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Sent my payment in full.
Joel
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The drivers in most aftermarket ECUs will handle either type of injector, although you need to avoid mixing them (open/close times, etc can cause odd AFR results between cylinders). You don't need resistor packs or anything to run either type of injector type (Saturdation or Peak-and-hold).
Joel
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The Springs are different, however the NA and Turbo cams are the same part number. Suprised me when I first found that out, but I guess it worked for Mitsu when they sold the car?
Joel
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Those complete Cheap Non-JV heads are likely from an Nonturbo (like a caravan or the like). You will HAVE to replace the exhaust valves with the turbo (stelite) valves, or you'll burn them up.
Joel
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Not really trying to bring back a year old topic or anything
...I just find it interesting...Actually VERY interesting
All the bores, coolant, and bolt holes line up...
Does anyone have info on this Nissan motor, because i'm willing to bet we won't see this guy again...
Could you imagine? Go with a distrib. less system with coil packs...
It would be almost like when the Ford 2.3 guys found the Volvo DOHC head for their motors...
The FJ20 wasn't ever in a US Car from what I know or could find. That was the motor I was going to put in my old S12 once upon a time, but that was through an engine importer.
Joel
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If someone is from AUS that would like to sell me a 2nd gen magna head... I'm in the market.
Joel
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Yeah, thats the unit I've had since August (I was in their second round of production when they first started making them).
Joel
Parts for sale (4g63, tail lights and other parts)
in Parts for sale
Posted
Short block came out of a DSM running high 11s the day before it was parted out... that was about a year and a half ago. May need hone because it sat, but everything was running when it was parted. Turbo motor, BSE Kit was installed by previous owner, otherwise it's an OE bottom end.
Bushing kit comes with (as reported by the included instruction sheet):
(2) Raduis rod "a" bushings
(2) Radius rod "b" bushings
(2) front control arm "a" bushings
(2) front control arm "b" bushings
(2) rear control arm forward inner "a" bushings
(2) rear control arm forward inner "b" bushings
(2) rear control arm rearward inner "a" bushngs
(2) rear control arm rearward inner "b" bushngs
(2) rear control arm rearward inner bolt sleeve (steel)
(4) rear control arm foward and rearward outer
(2) torque tube support crossmember "a" bushings
(2) torque tube support crossmember "b" bushings
(1) grease
They are black in color.
Joel