rockthemullet

PMed

Problem solved! The pressure sensor on the firewall above the brake booster (since its an 86) is the culprit. When I got the car, the vac line for the boost side of the sensor was capped. While I was going through the car and replacing things, I hooked it back up. While I was driving around a little while ago, I decided to get in there and unplug the pressure sensor and try a few pulls. The hiccuping is gone. It seems the previous owner knew the sensor was bad and capped the vac line instead of unplugging the whole sensor. Next question: Should I be on the lookout for a new pressure sensor? The car seems to be running fine without it but, since its a daily driver, I don't want my fuel economy to suffer. If my mileage is going to drop because the car is getting an inaccurate amount of fuel, then I'll definitely want to find one. I guess we'll see how the next couple tanks fairs. ~Eric

Steering a manual gearbox is EXPONENTIALLY easier than steering a power gearbox with no power (whether it be no fluid or no belt). A longer lock to lock is used in a manual system to relieve some of the stresses in the system and create less work for the driver; a longer lock to lock is not necessarily a bad thing at all. I never mentioned a power loss through the steering pump and, while there actually is one, thats not my motivation. The front weight of the car and the width of the tires have a lot less to do with steering ease than most people think. I have a cobra with a lot more weight over the front end than my conquest and 275s up front. With a properly set up manual system, this car can FEEL like a skinny tire honda.

I have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, vacuum advance, coil, vac hoses. I checked the timing (actually, Sully did). Fuel pressure regulator kind of makes sense, I'll have to do more research on that. The first cat, right after the turbo, is still intact but the second has been deleted from the system. I haven't checked the first cat but I really don't think its the problem, read below. Yea, it seems like it starts as soon as it hits full boost, just like yours. I'll consider an mas but I'll have to do some more research. Its an 86 and I knew it wouldn't be an easy swap, so I wasn't considering it. Yea! I should throw a 4g63 in there too! Its a standalone engine management system. Relatively cheap to set up compared to most other standalones. Update: If I keep my foot in the throttle while its kicking, a second or two later it will continue past this hiccup and rev smoothly. Its like its tripping on something but then regains its composure. Now, I'm completely stumped, lol. ~Eric

I have not. I'll have to go pick up an LED.

It seems like as soon as it hits full boost, or just after 3500, the car its a wall. Boosting to 10psi on an 86. It almost sounds like there is a limiter, the tach will bounce a little and it won't move any higher. Brand new NGKs 6s (they didn't have 7s) gapped to 32. 2.5" exhaust, everything else is stock. Just replaced the vacuum advance, thinking that may have been the problem. I'm thinking spark blowout, but would that really happen at 32? Any other ideas? Since its an 86, the injectors are fired simultaneously so it couldn't be the secondary injector because I don't have one ~Eric

Sully is correct, its 51, I just put one in like 2 weeks ago.

I noticed that. It seems as though it was a D50 box and a modified (extended 7/8") steering column. I was hoping to get some clarification on this and if anyone else had thought of another solution. ~Eric

I have read and understand the issues with running manual steering. I've also had about a half dozen cars with manual steering, so I sometimes prefer it depending on what the car is intended for. Thanks for the heads up guys, but as far as I can tell, this hasn't been replied to yet ~Eric

I have read that a D50 gearbox will bolt in but won't work perfectly with the stock column. To those who have done this or a similar conversion, please chime in on your experience and how well you like the mod. I know of a D50 gearbox at a nearby salvage yard and my power steering pump leaks, so this may be a worthwhile mod. ~Eric

I'm pretty sure the housing is bent. Doesn't matter, its all fixed now

Excellent. Thanks guys! ~Eric

I was pulling the abs computer and noticed some wire in the scissor jack cubby. I followed the wire and found all of this. http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1075-1.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1076-1.jpg A towing harness was spliced into the stock taillights! Who the heck tows with a conquest?! haha. ~Eric

I pulled the plastic piece under the intercooler to retrieve a tool and this harness fell out. I have no clue where it came from. If I had to guess, I would say its for a light, but I'm pretty sure all of the lights up front are currently operational. Help me out guys/girls! http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1077-1.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1078-1.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1082-1.jpg ~Eric

The car is an 86 widebody, btw.

You should be able to wire a flex a lite up to the primary thermo sensor so it kicks on when the primary fan in the stock system would kick on. I've also heard the largest fan you can run is a 17". There are plenty of 16" fans on ebay for ~150. ~Eric

The sensor is located just above the brake booster. Two vac lines and a connector go into this sensor. One vac line comes from the side of the air intake box. The other vac line ties into one of the rats nests near the intake manifold. From the FSM, I'm assuming this is the pressure sensor that determines the ambient air and boost air and regulates the fuel accordingly. Basically, is this needed? It was missing the boost vac line and that vac line was plugged when I bought it. The car ran fine then. I wouldn't mind just taking it out and getting rid of some vac line. I guess I'm looking for pros and cons to getting rid of it. THANKS guys/girls! ~Eric

Do you have any struts available? I need, at the very least, a driver side front strut. If you have both fronts that would be even better and if you have a set for all four corners in good condition that would be the best. Let me know! PS, Your inbox is full ~Eric

Looks like I have a bent strut. I need a driver side strut asap. I would prefer to replace both at the same time so if you have a pair or a set of four, then even better! Let me know guys and girls. ~Eric

Cool, keep me in the loop!

I got a pretty good deal on it, I'm not entirely pissed off. As far as my cobra goes, everything is for sale for a price I don't have a problem gettin into these cars, I like em. I just don't think I'll be doing anything crazy with this one. I told you it was worse than you thought. I'll probably drive it until I feel unsafe and then I'll part it. Got any leads on a nonbent strut? ~Eric

Finally got under it today. I THINK its a bent strut. I didn't see anything else that looked out of place. The driver side sway bar mount does not exist, lol. http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1067.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1060.jpg And here's some bad news... Driver side http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1061.jpg (yes, thats carpet!) http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1062.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1063.jpg Passenger side http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1064.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1065.jpg http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/ejm211/IMG_1066.jpg I don't think I'll be modding this car... ~Eric

The problem is, when you sell hundreds of thousands of sets, you're bound to have a few problems. I've seen centerlines, BBS's, and enkeis do the exact same thing. Unfortunately, even though it may be one wheel out of 100k out there, that wheel will get the most attention because it stands out. Personally, I would have no problem running rotas on any of my cars. I've seen them take a lot of punishment underneath plenty of high horsepower Evos and STis. ~Eric

Those are actually Rotas but they're virtually identical

I called them today, out of luck