Roy S

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Answering some questions, the tranny is a 6 bolt, the car runs mint, and apedog pm or call me for the vin. She sat all winter in the garage and when I put in a new battery to pull her out of the garage she fired on first crank. No overheating, great oil pressure, turbo spools nicely, and turbo set to stock boost. Thanks, Roy Car still for sale!!

No frame rust, that I see. I do not have receipts for anything because I bought the car from someone else last year. I am moving at the latest April 15th. Rear tire are like brand new. Fronts wasted but I have a new tire and rim for the front. Plus 89 rear seats in great shape and extra intake manifold and throttle body. Thanks, Roy

See old post for pics on 1989 Mitsu Starion - gotta move and can't take the car $2000 or best offer. 1st reasonable off takes it.

New price, moving and can not take the car with me. $2000 or best offer. 1st reasonable offer takes her home!!! Call Roy 585-267-6306

bump

BTW quickkong, The hidden vins and window etchings match the exact same 1989 Mitsu Starion, forgot to add that. Thanks

I will look for the stamp on the car after 2pm est today when my son takes a nap, for you. The starion on the windshield is a sticker. The hidden vin that the dmv used was in passenger side rear quarter located behind the jack storage location. As for the motor it is a complete rebuild from the previous owner. The vin on the motor as told from the NYS DMV came back to a car from Chicago, Illinois. From visual inspection, the motor has a new head, balance shaft elimination, intake manifold, injectors, and turbo. Without tearing apart the motor I can not tell you what the pistons are. The engine since the rebuild has always run mobil 1 synthetic oil only. All I know is that it sat for 7 months at the DMV pound and when I got it back, I dropped a battery in and it fired right up. The car has been in the garage since September and fired right up as well yesterday. The hatch is from a conquest as well as the taillights. Also I have extra parts that come with the car like a 89 rear seats in perfect condition, extra front rim in perfrect condition, intake manifold with throttle body, front strut tower bar, and some misc parts. Thanks for your questions, Roy

The car is located in Rochester, NY. Yes this car has a NYS Salvage title. Long story short. I bought this car and it was sold to me as a 87 Quest. Cop pulled me over cuz he didn't know what it was. Gave me a summons to go to NYS Dept of Field Investigations. Went there and they took my car. Stating according to the hidden vins in the unibody and window etching that the car is a 1989 Mitsu Starion. They were going to demo the car. I had to jump through tons of hoops and complain alot to get the car back in my name. Eventually after 7 months they gave me back the car with a 1989 Mitsu salvage title. So yes I saved this 89 Starion from the wrecking yard.

I hate to do this but here it goes. Up for sale is my 1989 Starion. The asking price is $2500 or best offer. The engine has about 5000k on it with new pistons, valves, balance shaft elimination, trilogy injectors, 16g turbo, manual boost controller, ac eliminated, 2.5 strait back exhaust, 1g mass eclipse, much more. The rims are near perfect. The interior is from a 87 conquest in near perfect condition. The taillights are conquest. Pulled it out of the garage for pictures today and it fired right up. Car also has drilled and slotted rotors. Car runs strong and boost pulls real hard with no lag. The car has not been overboosted due to break in period of engine. I WILL NOT PART OUT A 1989 STARION, so please don't ask. The bad is the body. It is going to need body work. Also the car comes with a NYS salvage title. The vin has been verified by NYS DMV inspectors as a 1989 Mitsu Starion and the window etching match as well. I was originally sold this car as a 1987 Chyrsler Conquest. Clear title in hand. Pictures @ http://s957.photobucket.com/albums/ae58/pongoface/1989%20Starion/ if you have any questions please call Roy @ 585-267-6306. Thanks for looking. gotta move and can't take the car $2000 or best offer. 1st reasonable off takes it.

Well I know I have some work to do lol but....... 89 Starion with rebuilt motor and new head with 3 angle valve, balance shaft removed. Engine ticks cold or warm. Excellent oil pressure and never runs hot. I went through and adjusted tps and ips to settings shown here on the site. The car starts right up and runs strong with or without boost. It only pops only under downshift. The person that I bought the car from said the lifters that he had put in the car were supposed to make that noise. From reading posts on this site I believe that the engine is supposed to be pretty quiet. I am going to do 3 things next and was wondering in what order should I do them. EGR elimination, new exhaust manifold gasket, and bleeding lifters/ordering new lifters. I did notice that one exhaust manifold bolt is missing and that it looks like a homemade gasket as well. Also if someone could show me the link for egr elimination and lifter bleeding that would be a help. Thanks in Advance, Roy

Simple - Which one is best or are they all basically the same? Mookeeh, Tokico, or KYB front strut inserts.

Sorry grazel I have been late getting back to your post, been real busy. Anyways, I received the etac on Monday. Remember I was missing mine completely and had my windows hot wired. I hooked up the etac and now have power windows, interior lights, rear defogger, intermit wipers, and power locks. Roy

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/1212778891.html

OOPSIE!!!!!!!!!! http://albany.craigslist.org/bar/1206155728.html

Seen this looking for parts, needs TLC. http://albany.craigslist.org/cto/1223320758.html.

Some I am wondering where I should go next with my Starion? I have made sure everything is running perfect at the current set up. This is where it is now. 30 over pistons, non jetted head, 3 angle valve job, arp head studs, walbro fuel pump, trilogy primary and secondary injectors, eclipse 1g mas, 2.5" straight back exhaust no cats, 16g turbo set @10psi with turboxs mbc(Have not increased the boost for break in period), greddy turbo timer, and accel coil. I am going to order a mk1 ovcp with bov since the car has its stock plumbing plus I believe that I am going to need this when I decide to pray and increase the boost lol. How much horsepower do I gain switching to a 3" gm maft setup? Without going mpi what else mods could I do at this point to gain horsepower? Thanks in advance for responses. Roy

Being that I am missing the etac I had to hotwire my windows at the main window switch and I had my door locks working with an aftermarket alarm system so I know they work. I removed the alarm because when I closed my door with the key in the ignition the alarm locked my car one too many times while running lol, so I took out the alarm. The alarm was wired to the door lock accuator rather spliced. So my windows work when hot wired and door locks when when hot wired via the alarm so I have come to the conclusion that it is the etac that is missing in my car. I also have checked all the relays and wiring in the car. There are 36 wires going into that etac on my car. I really believe that if the etac is not working correctly that the circuit is broken to the windows and power locks.

I have read many posts and am not sure of the spark plug gap. My NGK plugs are gapped at .044. Car pulls strong no misfires or backfires. Car only backfires when I downshift. Car has no cats, 30 over pistons, non jetted head, bs removed, 16g turbo, trilogy injectors yadda yadda. Question is? I have read on the site that they should be gapped at .034. I was thinking somewhere around the midway point. Really not sure. So plug recommendations and gapping would be great. Thanks in advance. ??

I need an oil seperator for an 89 Starion. Thanks Roy

Just out of curiosity, I disconnected the the grounding point on the inside of the passenger side front quarter panel near the air box and lost my seat belts and pop ups. I can't say anything about the etac since my car does not have one since I bought it. Ordered one today he is shipping it tomorrow. BTW the popups have nothing to do with the etac, all I can see is that they share a common ground with the etac, seat belt controller, and popups.

I took some time to look through the wiring diagrams on starquest garage and also found another website with the grounding points. Just for crap and giggles I noticed that the etac, pop up headlights, and the seat belt computer are all on the same grounding point number one. It looks like it is located near the air can and fog light/fan relays. Just an idea when something doesn't work for me I always check the grounds. Here's the link. http://www.tristarion.com/htmlman/Electrical/electrical.html Hope its the ground. Roy oops page 26

The etac is located under the drivers seat if you did not know. The eteac should have 2 harnesses going into it. one with 16 wires and the other with 20 wires. I know for sure on my 89 that it controls power windows, inter wipers, door locks, and defogger. Some parts of the etac could still be functioning thus your wipers. It is a circuit board and all parts of the board may not be fried. If someone ever jumped the car with reverse polarity it will fry the board. Hope this helps a bit. Roy

OK, I was wondering how accurate boost gauges are? The setup, I was told that the turbo when I bought the car was a 16g. But it looks a brand new 12a and on top of the turbo where it would read 05 - 12 the 2 has been grinded down. I know that they can rebuild these turbos with bigger compressor wheels and such. The car is an 89 Starion with a turboxs manual boost controller. The boost controller is setup with the vacuum tube from the waste gate to the mbc then to the intake. The 2 other vacuums from the waste gate are going to the oem electronic that was mounted on the air can. The turboxs mbc controller is set to bare minimum. Under full boost the stock gauge reads about 12psi and the cobalt vacuum/boost gauge reads about the same. I really do not think I am pushing 12 psi. When I barely press the gas both gauges read about 6psi. The other thing that bugs me is this. The car has no blowoff valve but whenever I shift after boost it sounds like a bird chirping(like a fluttering of air). All the secondary emissions are removed but the purge valve and evap are intact still. Is this the sound of the purge valve? Thanks for your time.

btw my power seatbelts work. I think the power seatbelts have a seperate little computer but I could be wrong.