knightrider56

:jumping0045: WoW fellas that's very good news to me & also sounds promising as well...thanks!...Ill probably will go ahead & rebuild the lower end since she gave me 70 psi. in the #3 cylinder..all the others gave me 140...

hi guys heres a discription of what i alread did......... -Super 16g Turbo -Full 3in *DM exhaust (no cats) -Hooker AeroChamber Muffler -52mm Throttle Body -Ported & polished intake manifold matched to 52mm Throttle Body -Marnal head assembly, Brand new Spain casting 8Vnon jet head with ARP studs (Jet Valve’s eliminated) -1.00 OS stainless valves=Ex valve 1.535 X 8MM stem X 4.170 = Int Valve 1.850 X 8mm stem X 4.250 -New spring seats and keepers, set up to accept up to .500 valve lift -Schneider HD6610 springs, 100lb seat pressure @ 1.600 (Open pressure @ .500 is 180lbs Coil binds@ .900) -New Retainers -New Valve Seals -Trilogy Injectors (Larger Injectors) -Greddy type s BOV -OVC-Over the Valve Cover Hard Pipe’s -Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump -3in GM MAF w/ MAF-T -Innovate LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor with XD-16 A/F Gauge -HKS EVC (Electronic Valve Control) -BSE Kit w/ Timing kit (Balance Shaft Elimination) -*DM AHP -SS Turbo Oil Line -SS Brake Lines -ACT Extreme PP clutch w/ Street Disc my top end (HEAD) is completely new and was not ported and polished although i wanted to do it but where i live its hard to get someone who can actually be honest and good at this line of work so i did not take the chance , im ready to do some work on the bottom end......This will be a daily driver car, any suggestions on my rebuild to the lower end

it runs pretty decent, but i can tell some loss of power....as far as the head goes i bought it from your place like last month along with the ajusa head gasket with the stainless steel valves, you had some package there on a head for about 7 and change....thats the one i bought.the guy who installed it for me said the cylinder looked very good and didnt notice any scuffs

YES thats it......thats how it looks

ok did another compression test this time with throttle open==== 1=140 2=140 3=70 4=140 then i added about a capful of oil to the #3 cylinder and i got 75

thanks indiana, will do today, and give you all feedback when im done

i just couldnt help it , i went back to my garage to go check on her again, and there was a friend of mine there who is quite a good mechanic, he told me to check the #3 cylinder again with the tester and said when you get a reading, check to see if the needle on the tester moves down a bit, but it didnt, i waited about 3 to 5 min. but the needle stood still on 60, he told me my ring was bad, but i still want to know if there is any other way to be positive on why i have low compression coming out that cylinder, I just dont want to do a ring job if i dont have to.....But if i have to i will....

Is this just installed?= The head was just installed You don't know if it's hydraulic or mechanical?= No you trying a comp test before starting it?= No, i had the head done about a month back, i drove her maybe about 10 miles on new head More details please?= i been trying to fix an oil burning problem i been having, car would be sluggish in normal driving conditions, but when i build up boost she would take off, and when i build up boost and let go of the pedal thats when i get smoke coming out of exhaust, it would go away after about 30 sec No start conditon?= She starts up and is drivable, but i just need her to be perfect.....

when you mean floored , you mean like hold down the acceleration pedal?

ill get on it first thing tomorrow morning i rent out a garage and does not have any light, and it just got dark out, ill let you know the results as soon as im done, if it were coming out the crankcase the sound would be coming from the bottom then, right?

How can i tell if there hydrolic or mech.

How do i put the cylinder to TDC...I have a small pancake compressor, can i use this to check....and if i hear air escaping, what does that mean?

I did a compression check today.....Starting with the back part of the valve cover (BREATHER PORT). And ending in the front (PCV valve) I got>>> 120= 60=120=120 Could it be i need to adjust the valves?...or can it be my rings? i got a new marnel head installed, i got from dad= 8V non jet head with studs assembled with 1.00 OS stainless valves, New valve seals, Schneider HD6610 springs, new Retainers, spring seats and keepers. set up to accept up to .500 valve lift ...i used my old cam and rockers Hope someone can help with this one..thanks...

do the ARP studs have to be retightend after driving the car a few miles

i think i found the problem...i disconnected both krank vents and the large one had a small hole in it , and the smaller one i can barely blow through both sides of it i just called ET performance and the man was kind enough to tell me to send em back to him and probably get them replaced.....hope this was my problem

i do not have the separator no more i eliminated it when i installed the crank kit, and i plugged up the oil pan line coming from oil pan, like i said when i first installed the crank kit it ran sweet until the IC hose popped out

my car hass been building up oil in turbo so i cleaned out the seperator and cleaned out all excess oil in I.C. and still smoke. ive been having problems with getting a new oil seperator can, so i bought a krank kit and installed it , i have the big one connected with the flow going out of the engine and the other with the flow going towards the intake manifold, and capped off the oil line from oil pan, plus i removed my intercooler and cleaned out all the oil that was in it, now it worked very good for a couple of hours (Which is the longest ive ever had it without burning or building up oil) until i gave it real boost and i heard a POP noise , which was the elbow hose thats 90 degrees that goes connected to the I.C poped out, along withe the hose from the large krank to the inlet....(my mistake i forgot to tighten the clamp) right when it popped out i had smoke coming out again and oil in turbo. So i removed the IC again and cleaned it out along with all the hoses, put it back together and ran it for about an hour but the oil build up and smoke was still there..

thanx a lot fellas, ill be ordering from dad on AUG. 11, dad, i will PM you on some Q's thx again

DADS SHOPim thinking about getting the Marnal head 8V non jet head with studs. assembled with 1.00 OS stainless valves, with New valve seals, Schneider HD6610 springs, new Retainers, spring seats and keepers, just needed some info if anybody knows, does this head come with new studs and nuts for intake and exhaust manifold, and can dad port and polish the head and for how much...the head im looking at is $725, (I posted his web page ) ....another thing,I wanted to know if the Fel pro Head gasket set (HS9116PT) that he carries comes with a meatal head gasket and is it durable , if not i would like to have a recomendation on a very good metal head gasket..I see he also carries a AJUSA Metal head gasket, is this good head gasket to put on a brand new head, like the one i will be getting from dad.. thx for info , if any...............

rgr that... thats how mines is setup....with hose going to 10.5psi port, and other 10.5 port capped, and the 7.5psi is uncapped

i only need canister ....but if you want to give all , ill take it

Does have a link or know where to get one online?

do they ever go bad ..and if so where can i find a new one...i tried this site http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=1 but it says vapor canister ...is that the oil seperator.......also they carry a fuel vapor seperator....maybe they call it by another name...... thx a mil indiana for the specs

thank you very much JP

hi guys...does anyone know where the three lines coming from the oil seperator go starting from the top of oil seporator then middle to bottom...id really appreciate it....i was fixing an exhaust leak coming from manifold gasket and i had to take apart one side half of the engine...