nasteboyii

well first thing i tried was cleaning the switchs and connections, then i lubed them with dialectric grease. i noticed the driver side works fine now, and passenger side works fine from the driver switch, but the passenger side slows down to almost stopping with the passenger switch... this is good enough for me for now.... thanks for all your help

sounds like i got some tests to do, but one i have done already... i had someone pull up on window and it went faster but when operating without someone else pulling on it, it never moves fast.. slow from the start, and slower the more it goes up, til the last bit is very slow ill do more testing as u suggested, and get to back to you thank you for the quick response Dan

I have a 1987 starquest, and the windows go up very slow, and the last 15 percent up extremely slow. Down goes down fast, i took apart the passenger side door, cleaned off the shaft with sand paper and acetone, then lubed with grease, seemed to help just a little bit. i m not sure if the little white plastic wheel is suppose to spin freely or just slide left to right, if its suppose to spin i would guess that may cause extra stress on motor to slow it down.. i would think? I had read on here, some say regulator needs rebuild, some say motor needs rebuild Anyone got any suggests im all ears i had did some searching and did not find much on window topics Thanks dan

sorry buddy i dont have the flywheel that went with the motor when i sold it let me know if still interested Dan

im located in delaware, i have a 87 centerforce dual friction clutch i am selling, your more then welcome to bring your old to compare with mine to make sure it would work... i have a dial caliper to measure diameter if need be not sure how far away from camden de 19934 you are if you wanna hit me up text 302 270 5141 Dan

that is probably what im going to do. i was hoping to hear someone had came up with a neat solution or a aftermarket product.

i didnt know the 87 which is what i have are diff then 88-89... i m already aware about the piece for electronic contact may be a issue... I am not concerned with defrost, or wiper arm or squirter... yes third brake light which at worst case i would let the wire hang... (this is more of a race car then a street car)... I do appreciate your responses

so my question is, is there a aftermarket trunk/hatch shocks? or are we stuck with trying to find stock ones that are good? of course mine have since gone bad, since the car has been sitting , (i probably blame the fact i left them up for along time in the garage well any help would be great thanks Dan

anyone?

free bump. those rear quarters are awesome looking. to bad you were not closer :/ my car needs both rear quarters

thanks for the response shelby first Unknown if tach worked previoulsy or not not original tach lead, due to all the wiring was removed from car, and ran new to only things i was using. if i ran the wire from the coil of another car, i would also ground the cars together any idea on the oil pressure sensor? thanks again for the quick response shelby

i would like to test my pressure sensor, i bought it used on here forever ago. i have a 2jz swapped car. and i am working on getting all the factory dash stuff working (for my personal likes of it, not for perfection) i know if i ground the wire the gauge works, so i know the cluster/wiring is good, which leads me to beileve sensor is bad, does anyone know how to test ( aka maybe put small pressure and read ohms thru it as i slowly increase pressure say from 10-40psi or somethign second, i need to test tach, i know its ground activated, and the easiest way i think is to pull a second car beside the conquest, with a external coil car, i could just run the one wire off coil (-) and run straight thru to cluster . Does anyone think this should work... just to simple test if it works or not. i cant remember if cluster worked when i first got the car about 4 yrs ago or so... i hate to buy a new cluster to put in to find out its another problem keep in mind i m using a 2jz with haltech, i ran the tach wire to the haltech like instructions described, and i also put the relay modifications with resistor as it stated. and still nothing, so unsure if tach is bad. which i think it is any information to help me with this, that would be great THanks in advance Dan

Like the topic says, i have a used centerforce dual friction clutch for sale, i have had it along time, came outta a car that spun a rod bearing shortly after putting clutch in, maybe 5k miles on clutch. i have long parted out everything else i had from this, and actually had forgotten i even had this laying around it is a 87, i am pretty sure it was the smaller spline setup (remind me its been along time since i messed with the stock parts) have any questions feel free to ask 200 bucks should sell quickly for this price???? plus shipping im located in delaware 302 270 5141 text only nasteboyii19943@Yahoo.com Thanks Dan

figured it out guys.. thanks for looking

the drive shaft attaches to it. and it has 4 bolts that bolt to the rear subframe my question is i not sure if i installed the bushings wrong, or if the piece is suppose to have play in it if i install it the one way. it allows the reciever to move up and down about 1/4 inch or so if i install the other way there is zero movement which way is correct,???? http://www.starquest..._626_515116.jpg

as far as the fastest g54b was in a car called shakura (spelling may be wrong) tube chassis car was 7s in mid 90s. car is outta japan i believe but ran over here in the states there are alot of cars w/g54b s at the import races, alot of non starquest cars too the fastest starquest i know of is a 7s 2jz 5spd (lenko or liberty i cant remember) tube chassis i just dont see enough of these cars full out race cars. or full interior... more or less cut up in places, cant wait to see matt s car on the road/track

thanks, i hope so. If i could just stop changing my mind, and wanting to do better , i would have it driving at this point. I ve changed my mind so many times i cant count. but at least i m having fun driving myself crazy new updates, got 2 intake air temp sensors (haltechs) one before and one after the intercooler, so i can data logg that info, i also have a temp sensor for the trans fluid, i still have to install almost finished mounting/hiding all the wiring underdash, trying to clean up the rats nest, no matter how much i seem to do, it still looks like a rats nest to me more pics on www.flickr.com/backmotorsports

here s the info i know, there is a 240sx w/2jz and complete stock aristo trans. car has went mid 9s on a radial , does not leave hard, and is pretty quick. its on a 67mm turbo, aftermarket converter, misc other stuff i cant remember here is a link http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3004241 enjoy

302 270 5141 text/pics only please

i dont have a picture, i dont have one to show you. ill see if i cant locate a pic

hell if i know send me a picture 302 270 5141 is cell, or post here, whatevers easier, my phone is faster way to get ahold of me Thanks Dan

how about the sensor or wahtever u call it, that goes into trans and the speedometer cable attaches to it if so me konw

I need the speed sensor aka were the cable attachs for the vehicle speed. im trying to use the stock speedometer for all the changes ive made to the vehicle. thanks for the response though