FLDSM88

PM sent. Reminder to everyone I am flexable on the price. This car still need quite a bit of work. I was building it to be a track/autox car. It will need new tires, and passanger and drivers seats are pretty shot. The rear seats are in really good shape and the trunk is all intact. The paint is sub par. The motor is worth more than the whole car, and was built by a very good machine shop here in Orlando.

I will try and take some more this weekend any thing in particular?

I have reduced the price to $2000. PM me if your interested, I will work on the price. This car has a built motor and tons of extras.

Here are some more pictures. Some of the things I forgot to add is that it has new engine mounts, fuel filter, and I have a walhbro 255lhp pump that has not been put on yet. I am also willing to work on the price please let me know. http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/DSC_0308.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/DSC_0309.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/DSC_0310.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/DSC_0311.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/DSC_0312.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/DSC_0313.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/DSC_0314.jpg

I will try to get some up this weekend. The ones on my computer right now are old.

Bump, its a good deal

I have a white 88 starion. Brand new motor not more that 15 miles on it. The motor has .030 wiescos, brand new bearings, ARP rod bolts, all new gaskets, new crank shaft, new marnel head, ARP head studs, new cam gear, new timint chains, new oil pump. heavy duty valve springs. Mookeeh crank pulley, MK1 hard pipe and SSV blow off valve. New raditor and flex fan with 2.5" spacer. Fidinza flywheel XCT clutch, and new throw out bearing. 16g turbo, braded coolant lines and braided oil lines, MK1 boost controler. 3" GM MAF with MK1 hard pipe and 1g MAF-T Custom 25" Down pipe with AEM UEGO wideband O2. I also started doing the EDIS4 conversion and everything is wired in the car I just haven't had time to finish it. The body is not in bad shape but it could definetly need some TLC. The interior is all original. The passanger and drivers seats need to be re done or replaced. The trunk shelf is in the car. It does not have the front splitter. The car is located in Orlando, FL. I am looking to get 2,500 for it, and considering everything that is in the motor I think it is a steal. I have alot of extra parts that will go with the car i.e. extra distributer, a/c pump, raditor fans, relays, and misc interior parts. I also have the title. Please PM with any questions. I will ship it to where ever as long as you arrange it and pay for it. It can drive http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/103_1636.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/103_1637.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/103_1635.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/102_0538-1.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/103_1640.jpg http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/tntriumph/103_1643.jpg

That looks like a really good deal, and the body looks in great shape.

I wanted to know which were the postive and negitive wires on the TPS. The service book shows a GR, GW, and GB wire. Am I safe to assume that the GR is postive the GW is negative and the GB is the ground? Thank you

I took mine out, and I know alot of other people that have elinimated it.

Yeah just looking at that sensor I would imigane that you would have to run tubing to the intake manifold and the Y out to the control module on the megajolt. The wiring shouldn't be to bad it looks like a positive, negative and a ground and the megajolt instructions show how to handle that. i think I am just going to run with the TPS and see how that goes.

Thank you for the information. I read on another forum about the pre 87s having the MAP. THe reason I ask is that I am going to run the EDIS 4 setup, and it is either read off of the TPS or a MAP sensor. I ordered the TPS board since I couldn't find anything about the MAP sensor, but I hear your really want to run turbo cars off the MAP sensor. I am going to try the TPS and see how it goes.

Thanks your a ton of help. Keep up the good work pal we are all benefiting from your genious.

I read through the fuel system section in the service book, and the only thing I could find is the MPS. It didn't mention anything about the MAP sensor??

I have a 88 starion where is the MAP sensor located?

Yeah I am thinking the same thing. I tried sucking on it and I can hear it click,but it doesn't seem to hold. I have a brand new fuel filter, injectors, and I rebuilt the throttle body before I put it on the engine. I think I am just going to get rid of the distributer and do the EDIS.

What do you consider pig rich at idle? Also at 4k my car is at minimial boost

Well the car used to backfire at 3k and I would never be able to get past 3k. I put a new tps new injectors and the back fire went away. Now it feels like it will not build boost or go past 4 to45k

I have been reading some of the old posts about this. If my injector clips we backwards would it cause the car to stutter at 4000k and not really build boost? I have brand new injector. I am going to test the vac advance, and put a new hose on the fuel pressure regulator. I alos have new soldered on injector clips.

Where is the best place to draw power to run the wideband O2, and what color wire should I be looking for? Also where is a good place to go through the fire wall in to the car? I looked under the dash and from inside the engine bay and I am having a hard time finding a gromet hole. Thanks

Anybody have any ideas?

What reading should I get at idle and WOT with the o2 gauge?

Also the noise sounds like it is coming from the exhaust manifold side.

I have not reset the ISC yet, but when I first put the MAFT on I could hear it clicking while in the on position. I will find the FAQ and try to reset it tongiht. Also I have been know to do my best hunting the the dark with no night vision haha.

Bump