Boostedtsi Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 So i went out to the junkyard and bought a 5 dollar 1g dsm bov. i want to crush it, but ive been reading and no one has pics of them. i wanna see how i should do it and if anyone can get me pics of it from the side. and instructions it will help out thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intense98rt Posted November 27, 2009 Report Share Posted November 27, 2009 To crush it, just put it in a vise and tighten it so the top collapses. A better way to mod the bov is to drill a hole in the side. I tried a crushed bov and it wouldn't release at low boost levels. So I got another one and I did this http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html but didnt put the brake line in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Venable Posted November 27, 2009 Report Share Posted November 27, 2009 the trick is to mount it on the car, and check it at idle, if it's not shut, shut the car back off, take it back to the vise, and crush it just a tiny bit (1-2mm). it'll take a few times to get it to where it's shut at idle, but it'll go off really quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostedtsi Posted November 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2009 Which do you guys prefer crushed or the dodge garage way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intense98rt Posted November 27, 2009 Report Share Posted November 27, 2009 It should be open any time in vacuum. So at idle, it should be open. I had that bov on my neon. The turbo basically spooled at idle. So I didn't need a filter on the bov because it would blow out air instead of sucking it in. First I tried crushing it and I didn't crush it enough then I crushed it too much. So I bought another and did that mod I posted. It worked better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Venable Posted November 27, 2009 Report Share Posted November 27, 2009 It should be open any time in vacuum. So at idle, it should be open. NO! it needs to be closed on a stock tbi setup. we run a draw through MAF setup and having the BOV open at idle is BAD. The car will run like crap (over rich because your loosing metered air). Even having a BOV closed at idle on stock setup tbi (by stock setup I mean MAS in the stock location) during shifts (where it's open) you go over rich for short bursts causing a lot more fuel to be dumped in. Just because something is done one way on a damn neon, doesn't mean it works for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustPaus_88TSi Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 (edited) Wow. Not sure where the idea of a BOV being open at idle came from. I've never seen that one. Draw-through on my stock SQ, BOV closed at idle. Blow-through on my IS300, BOV closed at idle. MAP based system on my SQ, BOV closed at idle. Maybe if I ran a BPV. If at all possible, get a mity-vac and test the damn thing. It took me two or three hits with a hammer to get mine into the correct range while holding it in my hand. The BOV wasn't on anything solid, so it really doesn't take much to change the springs effective tension on the valve. So if you do use a vice, go VERY slow. Crushing it is easy, but you will not enjoy trying to "uncrush" it. What I did was use most of the ideas from the dodgegarage and the "crushing" method, as they serve two different purposes. BOTH of which I HAD to do in order for it to work correctly. Crushing the top hat is done to match the BOV to the amount of vacuum the motor makes(mine was around 20-21 in.hg). Blocking the vent hole on the inside of the BOV(next to the valve face) is done so that boost pressure doesn't force the BOV open. Drilling into the vacuum chamber and venting it to the atmosphere is done to displace the air as the valve retracts into the BOV's body. In stock form, the 1G BOV leaked at idle and under boost. Edited November 28, 2009 by JustPaus_88TSi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinmaxesir Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 (edited) There's some good information in this article. It pretty much tells us that the setpoint for the a BOV is critical: http://www.gofastbits.com.au/troubleshooting Also, I setup my MityVac and found that I pull about 16.5Hg at idle. I have to set (cruch) my 1G BOV so that it is just shy of opening at that vacuum range. What are you guys getting for vacuum at idle? Vinnie Edited November 28, 2009 by vinmaxesir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intense98rt Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 NO! it needs to be closed on a stock tbi setup. we run a draw through MAF setup and having the BOV open at idle is BAD. The car will run like crap (over rich because your loosing metered air). Even having a BOV closed at idle on stock setup tbi (by stock setup I mean MAS in the stock location) during shifts (where it's open) you go over rich for short bursts causing a lot more fuel to be dumped in. Just because something is done one way on a damn neon, doesn't mean it works for us.I wasn't saying to run it open with the stock mas. I was running it with the map in the megasquirt. Maybe these cars pull different vacuum at idle and when letting off the throttle. When I had it, I crushed it a little bit, then tried it out, then crushed it a little more.. By the time it stopped being open at idle it wouldn't open after letting off the throttle. It left compressor surge. Drilling the hole in the side seemed to minimize compressor surge and it didn't leak under high boost. But it still was open during idle and engine breaking. Maybe it was do to the fact that the stock srt turbo was so small it was spooling at idle. I could feel the air come out of the bov. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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