blkmag_bx Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 any body have an idea of what could be the problem.my slave cylinder froze so when i went to put the car in 1st i bent the clutch master cylinder. i replaced them both now my problem is that i can't get a full peddle i still have to pull it up with my hand.and yes i tried bleeding it a few times just can't get a full peddle.any help please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 when you replaced the slave...did you get a genuine Mitsubishi one, or one from Auto Zone/Advance? I believe the one's from the auto parts store is made for the flat sided, non intercooled cars, and has a different length rod... so...may be the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Did you bleed the master before you put it on the car? If you didn't you'll not get it to pump up. Remove the line from it, have someone work the pedal and you cover the opening for the line, have them press the pedal down and hold it, you release your finger to let air/fluid out then cover it again then tell them to pull/let the pedal come back up and repeat until you get only fluid under pressure coming out. Now remove the bleeder from the slave and keeping the master full so it won't suck any air, let it run out the slave until you have to fill it back up one or twice. Tighten the bleeder screw. Push the pedal a few times it should be ready. Go to the slave again and push the rod all the way in with your finger, or just move the fork to push it all the way in that way all the fluid is pushed out of it, now press the pedal again that fills it back up and pedal may stick to the floor again but only once, repeat that a few times. Now watch the fork, press the pedal and the fork should move almost an inch. If the pedal upper pivot is worn out and the pin for the master is worn and the hole that both pins go in are worn AND the bumper on the pedal is missing that is the stop that makes contact to the cruise cancel switch then this lets the pedal come up TOO HIGH. There is NOT enough slave rod travel range for a pedal that is too high from that missing bumper and the master rod adjusted for it to get the clutch to work and what happens? The pedal ends up running out of room before it hits the floor and you end up eventually bending the end of the master where that rods screws into that U bracket. Air in the system is one thing, worn parts is another. Sounds like you didn't bleed the new master is your first issue to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkmag_bx Posted November 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 thanks guys. yes it is form autozone but when i ordered it they asked me for the vin "n" which is intercooled do you think i can still get one from the dealer? Indiana thank you for the input.no i did not bleed it before i installed it i was told that all i had to do was fill it up and unscrew the bleeder and let it run out the end.then to lock it down and pump the peddle a few times crack the bleeder and repete those steps a couple of times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 If the clutch MASTER is old and its original then its likely rusty. That rust prevents positive seal and some fluid my bypass the seal on the end of the piston so you get less fluid and not much pressure so the slave won't move as far. I meant the master needs bled because there is no fluid in the chamber and you can leave the bleeder out of the slave it won't matter it eventually just runs out from gravity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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