shmotz43 Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Hoping the wealth of knowledge I have seen on this site so far can help me with my problems. I'll start with some information about my car. I own a 1988 automatic Conquest, I'm unsure about how many miles the car has because the odometer has been stuck ever since i bought it. The only modifications done to the car are 2.5" exhaust from the turbo back, a blow off valve, all vacuum lines deleted except for the line running to the vac advance and the line for the fpr. I have also removed everything in the engine bay related to the air conditioning system (condenser, compressor etc...) The only problem I'm having right now is when I go into boost I hear a loud crackling (misfire?) and the car feels very sluggish. When I bought the car the owner gave me a set of injectors that i was told had just been professionally cleaned so installed them right away. I have also replaced the distributor, vacuum advance, plugs and wires trying to chase this problem but I'm stumped. The car was running great for about 3 months after replacing the injectors,plugs and wires but crapped out just recently. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 There's a hose from the intake manifold in the Y at the back by cylinder #4 on the top and it goes to the transmission modulator, that hose must be there and it can't be leaking or you won't have a tranmission that lasts very ling. You need to describe the noise a little better, where it seems to come from and when it happens and when it doesn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shmotz43 Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 There's a hose from the intake manifold in the Y at the back by cylinder #4 on the top and it goes to the transmission modulator, that hose must be there and it can't be leaking or you won't have a tranmission that lasts very ling. You need to describe the noise a little better, where it seems to come from and when it happens and when it doesn't. I'll try to take video a little later and post it up, it's hard to say where the noise is coming from because it's pretty loud but I'll do my best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vnomous1 Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Hoping the wealth of knowledge I have seen on this site so far can help me with my problems. I'll start with some information about my car. I own a 1988 automatic Conquest, I'm unsure about how many miles the car has because the odometer has been stuck ever since i bought it. The only modifications done to the car are 2.5" exhaust from the turbo back, a blow off valve, all vacuum lines deleted except for the line running to the vac advance and the line for the fpr. I have also removed everything in the engine bay related to the air conditioning system (condenser, compressor etc...) The only problem I'm having right now is when I go into boost I hear a loud crackling (misfire?) and the car feels very sluggish. When I bought the car the owner gave me a set of injectors that i was told had just been professionally cleaned so installed them right away. I have also replaced the distributor, vacuum advance, plugs and wires trying to chase this problem but I'm stumped. The car was running great for about 3 months after replacing the injectors,plugs and wires but crapped out just recently. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Well, it doesn't sound like there is a whole lot under the hood! I guess I would start with the basics. You replaced the injectors, what about the injector clips? Do you know what the fuel pressure is? Has the fuel filter(s) been replaced? Double check what vacuum lines you do have, and ensure they are not split or damaged. What do you know about the timing chain assembly? Has it ever been replaced? Is it worn out? If it is, you may have "jumped a tooth" which is causing the horrible running condition. Are you positive the timing is set correctly? Are your spark plugs gapped properly? Are your ignition wire's, cap, rotor, coil and ignition module (inside the distributor) servicable? Let us know what you come up with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shmotz43 Posted October 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Well, it doesn't sound like there is a whole lot under the hood! I guess I would start with the basics. You replaced the injectors, what about the injector clips? Do you know what the fuel pressure is? Has the fuel filter(s) been replaced? Double check what vacuum lines you do have, and ensure they are not split or damaged. What do you know about the timing chain assembly? Has it ever been replaced? Is it worn out? If it is, you may have "jumped a tooth" which is causing the horrible running condition. Are you positive the timing is set correctly? Are your spark plugs gapped properly? Are your ignition wire's, cap, rotor, coil and ignition module (inside the distributor) servicable? Let us know what you come up with. Forgot to add that, I replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay with an oem filter. Also replaced cap and rotor when replaced the dizzy (last night). I set the timing according to alldata to 10+ at 2000rpm. I have yet to check the fuel pressure or change the timing chain. I will try to change the injector clips and check the psi tonight. But for now international auto convention here I come . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vnomous1 Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Forgot to add that, I replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay with an oem filter. Also replaced cap and rotor when replaced the dizzy (last night). I set the timing according to alldata to 10+ at 2000rpm. I have yet to check the fuel pressure or change the timing chain. I will try to change the injector clips and check the psi tonight. But for now international auto convention here I come http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif. I could be wrong, but I have NEVER set the timing while the engine was at 2K RPM, just the normal idle range (850-950). The 10 degrees BTDC is right...but at "operating temperature" AND with the vacuum advance hose disconnected from the distributer. Also, don't forget there "should be' a conical filter in the fuel line at the gas tank AND the filter inside the tank. If that car has sat for a lengthly period, especially in the colder regions were rust is prevalent, your tank "could be" contaminated. Additionally, if you have "adjusted" the engine RPM, you may have inadvertently caused another problem with the TPS. If you have, you must adjust the TPS properly...the procedure is in you FSM. Let us know what you come up with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shmotz43 Posted November 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 ok, update time. I talked to a mitsu tech at work about not being able to rev past 4500 and he suspected the MAS so i ordered a 3in GM mas and the translator box. BINGO worked like a charm. Now I'm having a problem with the car shutting off when it gets hot, suspecting the fusible links or at least the mess of wires around them. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Lets see, you still have the base timing set at 10btdc at 2000rpms or did you correct that? You sure the injectors are clipped on correctly? Car should start and idle with only the black one plugged in. When you get the idle set and the timing set and the TPS showing .5v or less warmed up, and it won't matter at idle if the vac. adv. is connected or not btw, and you hear something at 4500rpms. You hear something or does the motor not run right at those rpms? MAS and MAFt all you did was change what was wrong and it wasn't the MAF so what does a MAFt do? I just changes the injector pulses. If the TPS is off, it won't tell the ECU you are at wide open throttle either or it will tell you too soon so you have to use a volt meter to set this all up there is no other way MAFt or not. If you did all that and the noise is still there is must be mechanical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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