Jump to content

boost controller


Samquest
 Share

Recommended Posts

I would like to know how much boost could a stock motor hold. I have a 87 quest fully rebuilt and I want to up the boost on her. So could anyone help me out so I dont blow her up. I also have a aftermarket boost gauge to let me know as well. One more thing will I have to change the fuel pump or could I still use the stock one.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the stock turbo ive heard the later 88-89 cars can hold like 20psi if the fuel system is working 100%

 

Im not really sure though...but of course ive also heard you would need a bov with this much pressure and i guess it makes sense. Some like to argue against that though.

 

So....not sure :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15psi is about all your gonna wanna push from the stock turbo. the motor can handle it just fine, its the turbo that starts to feel the crunch at anything above that. you may run into fuel cut with a stock 87 system, all of them are different so your only gonna know its limits when you hit it. with a stock turbo i hit fuel cut at 17psi, my buddy has a 87 and hits it at 13psi. our cars were made within one month of each other. but mits was constantly making updates, so yours may be different.

 

you will know fuel cut when you hit it cause it will scare the crap out of you if you have never heard it. mine make a very loud and pretty violant backfire when it hits its cut limit.

 

stock psi on a 87 is 7psi, start slow and go up to 10psi, then 12psi. you may find that 12psi is plenty for you cause the car really starts waking up when you turn up the boost. rough estimate they say is 10hp for each pound of boost you make, so going from 7psi to 12psi you just gained roughly 50hp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok sounds good I'll let you guys know how it goes. But will I need a bov with boost increase or should I be ok. Another thing how much whp does a 87 quest come with. Cause I have a race coming soon and I need to have her ready. So as mentioned if it pushes 7psi from factory. With 12psi where should she be at roughly in whp. Will I be around 200 at least. Edited by Samquest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think it was factory rated at 188hp at the FW, probably around 130ish at the wheels. adding roughly 50hp to that you may be roughly at 180hp to the wheels. but its not always about HP, this car makes way more Torque then it does HP.

 

if you want to get her ready for a race change your oil, trans fluid, rear end gear oil. then clean and replace your fuseable links, clean all your grounds, check for vac leaks and intercooler leaks. reset the isc and tps, put in a new set of factory ngk plugs, new wires, rotor, rotor button, coil, and vacuum advance. get a timing light and verify that your timing is set to 10deg btdc, remove the small cover for the BS adjustment and tightent the tension on the 100,000 + mile chains that will be spinning at 12,000rpms. call a tow truck and put him on retainer.

 

then turn the boost up to 12psi and your now ready for the race.

 

lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ISC (idle speed control)

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=28069

 

this should guide you on the TPS. (throttle position sensor)

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=907

 

fuseable links. (all power to everything runs thru these)

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1180

 

grounds.

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=916

 

and if you dont have history of the bottom end adjusting the Balance Shaft chain really wouldnt be a bad idea. they spin at twice the rpms of the motor to counter balance vibration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

doing those few things really will bring the life back into your car. cleaning those grounds and fuseable links will assure that everything is getting the correct voltage.

 

and a stock car with those boost levels 4500-5000rpms are gonna be your sweet spot for shifting. do some testing, i bet it will bark the tires shifting at those rpms more then going to red line. this motor is not your average high rev motor so dont try to rev it to the moon or you will be draining out rod bearings in your next oil change.

 

give it TLC then give it heck. you will save lots of time and money that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys I was driving my car and she started acting funny. So I took it over cousins shop and he checked it out for me. The car has a blown head gasket I couldn't believe it. So I got some work inhead of me, I'm just glad that I didn't try raceing her with a blown gasket. So that is why she would run like crap. So I have to get everything for the head gasket to go in and she should be ready in about two weeks.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you blew a head gasket after only 200 miles on a rebuild you have a problem you need to find before you put a new head gasket on it. something caused the gasket to blow out, if you dont fix whatever it was its just gonna blow the new one out too.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah the motor only has 200 miles but the car sat for two without moving. My stepfather is the one who sold me the car, but we both didn't exspect it to happen. But I will be checking it out and now that it is at shop I could do everything to her that you told me to do to get her ready. Like I said I'm glad that I found it out. Cause the head gasket blow in the middle of 2-3 piston. But valves are good and pistons are good as well But I'll keep yall posted on the progress.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...