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Chevy Small Block Swap (Daily Updates with crappy pics now)


propeine
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Well I posted this in the BS forum the other day but I want to try and get more pictures so I can kind of step by step through my swap so I'm starting a post here. I plan to include parts bought and pictures so everyone knows where I'm at. Here's the current list of parts

 

This was all on the engine I bought for $800

-1970 Corvette SBC Block at 355cid

2 piece rear main seal

4 bolt mains

Forged internals

12:1 Compression

1.6 Roller Rockers

Lumpy Cam

 

-HEI Ignition

-Unsure of the heads on the engine

-Strip Dominator intake

-Edelbrock 850 CFM Carb

 

Borg warner T56 Transmission brand new from a distributor $2000

-Custom bellhousing spacer

-Hydraulic throwout bearing

 

Summit Racing Order number 1

-Mallory Fuel pressure regulator -MAA-4309 $74.88

-Brake hose fitting Wrong one -MCL-139026 $41.39

-One Wire Alternator Conversion -SUM-1667 $34.95

-Master Cylinder 7/8" Tilton -TIL-74-875U $69.99

-Motor Mount Pads -TRD-9314 $26.69

-Zoom Performance Clutch -ZZZ-30006S $157.69

 

Ebay

-Chevy II Oil Pan for rear sump $74.99

 

So far I have made motor mounts out of 1/4" plate and I will try to take pictures as soon as possible.

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The oil pan is notched to clear the steering assembly in the Novas just like it clears the steering assembly in the quest! Unfortunately it does drink premium. My digital camera was stolen a few weeks ago so I'll get pics asap but the old cell phone doesnt take the prettiest of pics.

 

Here is a pic of my oil pan though

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/42000091/Images/1/7480HZ.jpg

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The pictures I posted before are with the engine seated on the oil pan. The engine may be a little farther back than with your setup Ken as I don't think I have room to get my tranny in without hammering on the firewall a little bit but I'll find out for sure tomorrow.

 

Which SBC threw a rod and why?

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Guest Kenmarrow
The pictures I posted before are with the engine seated on the oil pan. The engine may be a little farther back than with your setup Ken as I don't think I have room to get my tranny in without hammering on the firewall a little bit but I'll find out for sure tomorrow.

 

Which SBC threw a rod and why?

 

Well I did massage the tunnel with a 12 pounder :lol: a TH350 is a bit bigger than a 5 spd. and dittos on the bearings.

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Which SBC threw a rod and why?

The 350 in my 70 c10.That is why i hate a chevy..esp a 350...POS engines.

I found another one locally that will go in the truck and then she will be on ebay.I will be buying a ford...never had a ford leave me on the side of the road.Every chevy I have ever owned has.

if the deal on the 350 falls thru,I may try to find a good 327....I have had 2 of those before and both were great little engines.

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Guest Kenmarrow
Vinnie, I will say this, Every truck I have owned was a Ford. My current Ford F150 has over 200,000 miles on it and it goes strong. Other than a few external parts I have never dun anything to it... ( I should not have said that)... I personally would never own a cheby truck...Like a rock sitting beside the road... Good luck pal... Ken
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Well I came to the conclusion that this particular oil pan wont work. Not without modification. There just wasnt enough room between the engine and the firewall. So I fixed it. Plasma cutter, tig welder and some spare sheet stock and its all fixed up. I took some pictures on a buddies camera so as soon as he emails them to me I'll post them. Now I have lots of room. It was a 6 quart oil pan to start with. Now the reservoir at the bottom of the pan holds a gallon. I'm not real sure where the six quart mark was before though.
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-Oil pan successfully modded.

-HEI Distributor fits.

-Transmission has clearance.

-Removed ABS

 

My housemate Steve helped me hammer in the trans tunnel while I took out my ABS. I tried fighting with my master cylinder for the clutch but I'm just too damn big I swear to fit under that dash. I did unfortunately snap off my throttle tube in the engine bay while I was being a jackass. I'm going to trim my engine mounts a little bit to allow for some more clearance from rail to rail. If anyone has any tips on jacking up the transmission into place without a tranny jack I'd appreciate it.

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Guest Kenmarrow
Jacking up tranny.. Try this.. Set Tranny on belly side under car and have beer fed to you thru hose in floor. This will raise it into place. Beerdrolics.. Be careful I ripped rotator cuff last time I did mine with a floor jack as I caught it when it fell off jack.. Ouch..
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Beerdraulics lol. Here are two quick pics of my oil pan now. Sorry for the camera phone pics but since some retard stole my real camera I'm SOL til the swap is completed and I can spend money on other things again.

http://preview.tdemitras.photosite.com/~photos/tn/8795210_1024.ts1172599358383.jpg

 

and

 

http://preview.tdemitras.photosite.com/~photos/tn/8795213_1024.ts1172599365472.jpg

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Wow...of course I just had to have a t56 transmission. Couldn't be happy with an automatic that I dont have to slide into the clutch assembly. That would have been too easy. Clearance has become quite the issue. The transmission fits where I want it however there is no room to get the engine and transmission together.

 

I'm taking off the steering control arm in order to have another two inches of wiggle room back there to at least put it together. I'm wondering if I could drop that arm too. Put a step in it at each side to drop it down some and make even more room in there. Otherwise any time I go to change the clutch or anything else for that matter I'm going to have to take apart the entire assembly. Anyone have any advice on this?

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Guest Kenmarrow
Tom, When I pull the tranny I have same issues.. So I pull Dist. and four of the six motor mount bolts and let rear of engine lower so I geta little more clearance back there...and pull the 4 crossmember bolts too ,Oh BTW remove engine to tranny bolts before you lower it and viseversa..Once you do it a few times it gets ez.. and get a good clutch.. If you do find a way of lowering the pitman arm and linkages let me know... I would love to drop it two inches too..
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I went and spoke with my inspection mechanic today. His shop is directly across the street from my house. Great guy and if you're in Erie take him some business. I borrow more of his tools than you can count and I just buy him a case of beer once in a while to keep him happy.

 

Anyways the deal with the pitman arm is you are allowed to weld in vertical offsets if and only if you have a reconstructed title. Now considering my swap I should indeed have a reconstructed title but of course have no intentions on getting on so I guess the easiest idea is out. Unless of course I weld it, grind it and paint it again so it looks stock. I highly doubt anyone is going to break out a picture of it just to check inspection. I put in a picture of my intention in case anyone was wondering too. However.....its probably not really too wise to be going around welding on something that is that critical. You're kinda in a world of crap if it breaks so I'll probably try to just work around it.

 

http://preview.tdemitras.photosite.com/~photos/tn/8859118_1024.ts1172857779434.jpg

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I gave in to the car gods and did what I thought I should have done in the first place. An automatic may fit with a small block and a t56 may fit with a g54B but they sure as hell wouldnt fit together so....see the pictures. I just made more work for myself but it will look cleaner in the long run. They never said this was gonna be easy afterall.

 

http://preview.tdemitras.photosite.com/~photos/tn/8871741_1024.ts1172902386623.jpg

http://preview.tdemitras.photosite.com/~photos/tn/8871742_1024.ts1172902393818.jpg

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I dont know if this will help but superhomes Put his way!!!! back in the firewall.

link to picks.

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/displayimage...0&pos=-4061

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)

holy god,why?

Hope the dist never needs maintenance :shock: or spark plugs needs replacing :shock:

you cheby owners.... :lol:

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