Star_V8_Quest Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 You can set your tranny in place first to see how low you need the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propeine Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 Or you can make a new transmission tunnel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star_V8_Quest Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 Or you can make a new transmission tunnelWhy hack it when it can fit properly? :wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propeine Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 Because mine would not have ever fit properly. I hammered for quite some time before concluding that it wasn't going to be possible to ever slide the engine and transmission together. I'm running a large diameter flywheel that just clears the bellhousing. The clearance at the back of the engine doesn't permit enough tipping to slide it on that way. Now I have a removable fiberglass trans tunnel that with the removal of about 20 bolts makes it able to access any upper portion of the transmission, the bolts holding it to the engine, and gives me clearance to remove the engine and transmission as one piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Im doing a 318 swapp 8) Man ive got a lot of work to do.... 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star_V8_Quest Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Because mine would not have ever fit properly. I hammered for quite some time before concluding that it wasn't going to be possible to ever slide the engine and transmission together. I'm running a large diameter flywheel that just clears the bellhousing. The clearance at the back of the engine doesn't permit enough tipping to slide it on that way. Now I have a removable fiberglass trans tunnel that with the removal of about 20 bolts makes it able to access any upper portion of the transmission, the bolts holding it to the engine, and gives me clearance to remove the engine and transmission as one piece.I am curious,will this car have carpet and if so,how hard will it be to get to the fiberglass piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star_V8_Quest Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Im doing a 318 swapp 8) Man ive got a lot of work to do.... 8)not really,the work has been done for you :wink: http://www.kabamus.com/garage/motorswap/invent.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voltron Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Im doing a 318 swapp 8) Man ive got a lot of work to do.... 8)not really,the work has been done for you :wink: http://www.kabamus.com/garage/motorswap/invent.html Dude you frikin rock!!!!!!!!!!Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :shock: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propeine Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Yes the car will have carpet. The fiberglass piece you'll have to wait a little bit for pictures. Don't think hard to get, think easy to make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kenmarrow Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 How are you guys coming along? Tom how goes it? Voltron ?? I have been messing with damn power steering,, whine from pumps and leaking gear boxes.. Finally found a regulator kit for pump to drop pressure down to appropiate level, ( 1100 psi ) or there abouts. Also waiting on headers, I got new ones and having them moded and ceramic coated. So maybe in a couple weeks I will be back on the road. I take some pics when I get headers installed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77amc Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Ken, I'm gonna start on the fabbing of the crossmember of mine. Like 3"sq tubing and maybe some chrome moly thick wall to make a " U " to go around the front of the sump.OR, what do you think of swapping the spindles from side to side to get the tie-rod ends in front of the crossmember?Did you measure how far it was from the rear of the chev oilpan to the centerlink?I have a 406 that was going in another car but it's just sitting there and should be around 430hp N/A.. But who knows. I may look into the stand alone F I kits from Accel or Holley. Or just another fresh 350 roller motor that is also sitting. Probably going with a 200r4 just cause I have one sitting..This will be my '88 parts car, so I'll trial fit it first and then if I get another one that isn't red, I'll swap it. I'll email ya when I get the crossmember done.Errol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kenmarrow Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Well If you have the ability to fab all that and keep it straight then just move engine forward enough to clear center link. Of corse this will mean moving raditor forward too. I have seen one guy attempt to build a new crossmember assy.. and well the car would never have driven straight again.. Again this is a tuff swap.. take your time..and do not cut it unless there is no other way.. Good luck.. Oh and I do not know about the spindles? It never crossed my mind.. will have to look at it..Maybe somebody on here has done that ?? Just ask.. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77amc Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Ken, I've been thinking about building one of these for about 4-5 yrs. http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/stalkerv6/ It's a supercharged 3.8 BOP (maybe they won't figure that out) that has a S-10 2.2 bellhousing, 3.8 Camaro clutch assy, and trans to make it RWD... I wonder how much room I'd have left commpared to a 406 Chev.?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77amc Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 OOORrr.. If you would want to just tear the drive train up. How bout a 472-500 Caddy motor, swap the exhaust manifolds around to exit in front and use the pan and pickup from a later mod 425 engine and make it a front sump that has big ol harry's to the tune of 500ftlbs stock. (Cad500parts.com) Mate that to a 'level 10' 200r4 so maybe you'd get 12-15 mpg.. 'Sigh' Well, maybe not. You'd be cracking the windshield on launches probably. E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakey2000 Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 GO MOPAR! only I have a 440 Cuda and that engine is to much of a pain to shohorn. Im doing a 350 chevy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spinnburn Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 To solve the oil pan sump problem why not just run a dry sump system with a ARE shallow cast aluminum pan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kartman74 Posted February 24, 2008 Report Share Posted February 24, 2008 i will do that if you want to sponsor the dry sump kit. jus jokin. thought about it, but the setup is about 2k or more, and you still have to put the oil resavor in, which is quite large in some systems. dont forget the pump system that has to mount to the side of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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