carp3d Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Hey... Any of you have preferences when wiring up the Starquests with an alarm? - Where do you tap into for the doors and hatch?- Can we use the existing door lock actuators to open and close for keyless action? - if so which wires to we typically tap into for those.- Dome light lighting....etc etc. I am redoing mine and i realized that i probably hadnt made the best choices 10 years ago when i did... so this time i'd like to do it spot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuestFan Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) Hey... Any of you have preferences when wiring up the Starquests with an alarm? (- Where do you tap into for the doors and hatch?)I used the wires behind the gauge cluster that trigger the two red lights for door and hatch in the cluster itself. (- Can we use the existing door lock actuators to open and close for keyless action? - if so which wires to we typically tap into for those.)Yes you can use the existing actuators. I do not remember the color of the wires but I am pretty sure they had blue and green, I tapped into the wires behind the black panel on the drivers side kick panel. I believe there are relays on the backside of that black panel and the wires you need are in there. - Dome light lighting....etc etc.I did not wire up for dome light supervision, I just use the door trigger. (I am redoing mine and i realized that i probably hadnt made the best choices 10 years ago when i did... so this time i'd like to do it spot on. I installed a VIPER 5901 alarm system in my 87 Quest. I put the alarm module behind the radio. You may not be able to with a stock radio though. I put the transmitter on the dash right above the clock for optimal remote distance. Even from a mile away I can start the car, unlock it, lock it, see what the temp inside is, everything. I also wired for remote start. All those wires are pretty much at the ignition switch. You just have to run a wire for tach signal. (See quote for other wiring info) Idk what you mean by spot on. Pretty much if you wired it up, and it works, it is spot on. I prefer soldering and heat shrink all the wires as well for reliability. I doubt there is a central location to wire ALL the wires in a general area. I could tell you EXACTLY what to do but my car is about four hours away at Phinko's untill next month most likely. The site I used to help me with my install. Edited April 6, 2011 by YoungQuestFan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUBEN88TSI Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Hey how's it going Guyz. Here's a lil more info for ya (applies to the 88 and 89 but not sure if before...): At the ETACS under your drivers seat: Factory Alarm Disarm - brown Hood Pin - white/green Trunk Hatch Pin - red/white *all negative triggers... *possible to grab Hood Pin and Factory Alarm Disarm behind drivers kick panel... *Hood Pin may set off false alarms if bad/going bad (either check your alarms diagnostics to confirm if it's that trigger or dis connect that trigger and arm your alarm again to see if it'll go off on ya). Yes you can tap into the factory locks Man! The panel above the drivers kick w/ the relays on it: Lock - red/blue/silver Unlock - green/blue or red/green *all negative triggers... Hope this lil bit of information helps Man. Since I've had my 88 TSi since Dec. last year/2010 I've had to deal w/ more than enough electrical gremlins. The info on the all Grounding Issues, Headlight/Switch Issues, Diagnostic Codes/LED Set Up, TPS/ISC Reset, Wiring Issues w/ the CTS/Water Temp Gauge/A/C Compressor Overheat Shutdown (FINALLY, better gas mileage!), and then some, has been extremely helpful thanks to All You Guys on here! Still more work to do... Later Guyz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carp3d Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Thanks Guys.... I like the idea of using all negative triggers.... Much safer and less likely to cause a drain. Sounds like you've been through the electrical gaunlet for sure! Ive been in and out of it for a while...finally got fed up and decided to replace all those fuseable links and track down any areas of electrical crud Im not sure my drivers side lock actuator is working... Should it follow the passengers side like it follows the drivers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carp3d Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) Up in the car last night.... It seems the wire that plays a part in lighting either the door bulb or hatch bulb in the gauges cluster is always hot and then gets grounded to show the open door. This is not an optimum place to tap in for the alarm i would think or is it? The other wires from the door lead into the TAC unit under the seat. These when disconnected from the tac get grounded nicely... but when i plug them back in and try to pick up the ground it gets confusing.... Amazingly with the TAC unplugged the local door light itself is still functional even tho i traced the two wires from the door switch to the harness plug that is not even plugged in! How in the hell is that bulb lighting with both wires out? Must be split somewhere else....arg! Edited April 7, 2011 by carp3d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carp3d Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) Just thought about the cluser lights again... Anyone think using a diod inline with the gauges doorlight bulb would work as a reliable neg trigger? Being that the gauges circuit is always hot we dont want any current flowing up that zone of the alarm.... right? Edited April 7, 2011 by carp3d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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