jstow Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 what is a great upgrade for these? i have a 1g as of now but runnin way to rich and lookin to see it theres other sensors out that there will help me to lean out more i was thinkin something like a mustang maf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Black_Stallion Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Have you run the codes yet? Might have a bad mas, O2 sensor or a Coolant temp switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstow Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 dont even know how to look u codes for these cars. but i am thinking about installing a afc or buying a maf/maft but if i buy the maft shouldi still ue my afc or would a afc be pointless or which of the 2 is a bettersetup to go with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstow Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 also thinkin about buyin a aem wideband would i still beableto use all 3 together? or what lmk im not highly smart with electronics and functions of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Black_Stallion Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Need to check to make sure you don't have any error codes before trying to bandaid the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Black_Stallion Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 (edited) The easiest and cheapest way to check for ECU error codes is to go to Radio Shack and buy a 12v LED for about $2.50. Once you have your LED, it's best to solder alligator clips onto each wire. I've heard you can go without them, but I've never got it to work without them. Once you have your LED ready to roll, it's time to test for codes. I was surprised as to how easy it was to check for these. Open the glove box, and squeeze the sides to drop it all the way down. Get down and look up and you will see a white/yellowish colored plug with nothing plugged into it. Take the LED and hook the red lead up to the most upper right terminal, and the black lead to the most lower left terminal. *** If you pull the plug off its perch it makes it easier. The black wire with a red stripe is positive and the other corner wire that is solid black is negative*** Once you have done this, you're just about done. Just start the car, or turn the key to the "On" position. If there are any errors, the LED will blink a certain amount of times. The amount of blinks determines the error. For example, 1 blink then a pause, then one blink again, is code #1. 3 blinks, then a pause, then 3 blinks, again, and so on and so forth, is code #3. Note - It will always give you a code 1 (o2 sensor) until the car warms up, and the car must be started to test this. Diagnostic Codes TableDiagnostic Code................DiagnosticItem1......................Oxygen Sensor2 .....................Engine Speed Sensor3......................Airflow Sensor5......................Throttle Position Sensor6......................ISC Motor Position Sensor7......................Coolant Temperature Sensor.....(code 4 is for Cordia/Tredia only.) After you've checked the codes, and fixed whatever was wrong, unplug the battery for a minute to reset your ECU. Hope this helps. Diagnostic Code 1 (Oxygen Sensor) If oxygen sensor signal does not change for 20 seconds or more in feedback range, check wiring harness and connector, oxygen sensor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 2 (Engine Speed Sensor) While cranking engine, if input of ignition signal is not applied to computer for 3 seconds or more, check wiring harness and connector, ignitor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 3 (Airflow Sensor) On all models, if airflow sensor maximum output is 10 cycles per second while engine is idling, check wiring harness and connector, airflow sensor and ECU. On Cordia and Tredia models. if engine stalls and output rises to 100 cycles per second, check wiring harness and connector, airflow sensor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 4 (Pressure Sensor) If pressure sensor output is 4 5 volts or more, or .2 volt or less, check wiring harness and connector, pressure sensor and ECU. Diagnostic Code 5 (Throttle Position Sensor) If throttle position sensor output is 2 volt or less, or is 4 volts or higher for one second or more while engine is idling (idle switch on), check wiring harness and connector, TPS and ECU. Diagnostic Code 6 (ISC Motor Position Sensor) On Cordia and Tredia models, if throttle position sensor output is .4 volt with L switch off, check wiring harness and connector, ISC servo and ECU. On all others, if motor position sensor output is 4.8 volts or more, or .2 volt or less, check wiring harness and connector, MPS and ECU. Diagnostic Code 7 (Coolant Temperature Sensor) If coolant temperature sensor output is .1 volt or less, or 4.5 volts or more, check wiring harness and connector, coolant temperature sensor and ECU. Edited October 14, 2010 by 87Black_Stallion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpaidslave Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 sorry to hi-jack, but if my coolent temp swtich was bad would it let my car overheat, or just overheat in general? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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