start by cleaning to bare metal the weld area
Then tack it together with button welds with the welder on its lowest heat and wire speed settings. The hood metal is 18 or 20 gauge, if your car has been painted before where the old paint was ground off its even thinner, so do not attempt to weld the hood together unless you have a lot of experience. Just do buttons to hold the pieces together. If you have took your time measuring and cutting your pieces the tolerances between the parts will be small and you shouldn't have a lot of gaps to fill. Once again, do not continuously weld the parts together. Be sure to button weld the side pieces to the frame underneath, this will give rigidity to the hood. Trust it is a PITA not having the under structure connected. My first hood cracked welds it flexed so much with the hood prop, this one is more rigid than factory. In the second photo you can see how I buttoned the side vent to the original frame. Monday or so I'm going to do another set of buttons then that's it, it's done.
Part 3 will be finishing the seams.
How To: Fabrication of my second hood, Part 2
1 reply to this topic
Posted 21 February 2012 - 07:10 PM
Can't seem to edit that last post....no, doing those welds will not make your car into a tubbed Nova....but it should look like this
86 Mitsubishi Starion; 89 engine, trans, rear end, spindles, wire harness and computer; 16g
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