tom h Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 hey everyone! im new to this site and just bought a 1983 starion .just wondering this car was sitting for quite awhile before i bought it .when i got it home i drained tank,changed all vacume lines,plug leads ngk plugs distributor cap and rotor.i did a compression test and it was 125 psi across all cyclinders the number 2 cyclinder is the problem as has spark but no ignition. have any of you had a fuel delivery problem where 3 out of 4 cyclinders are firing except one .ive had a few 2.6's but not turbo or injected the spark plugs are all dry when i drained the tank ,i put new fuel in and left the line off the tb to purge the old gas out and it would not reach the tb until i bolted back on . any help would be awesome as im sorta stumped ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 How bad of a miss? I know most dizzy/tbi StarQuest seem to have this ever present slight miss at idle only. But how is your timing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) the miss is bad take the plug lead off no difference in running rev to 3000 rpm sounds like its gone but not timings perfect Edited July 6, 2011 by tom h Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Hmmm. What plugs/gap are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 ngk gapped to spec but tried switching plugs all plugs are good lots of spark .tonight i might pull the tb apart clean the injctors and check the filter in back of car .its like im not getting any fuel to # 2 cyclinder has any body had a low pressure in your to not allow it to spray properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matrapp Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 hey everyone! im new to this site and just bought a 1983 starion .just wondering this car was sitting for quite awhile before i bought it .when i got it home i drained tank,changed all vacume lines,plug leads ngk plugs distributor cap and rotor.i did a compression test and it was 125 psi across all cyclinders the number 2 cyclinder is the problem as has spark but no ignition. have any of you had a fuel delivery problem where 3 out of 4 cyclinders are firing except one .ive had a few 2.6's but not turbo or injected the spark plugs are all dry when i drained the tank ,i put new fuel in and left the line off the tb to purge the old gas out and it would not reach the tb until i bolted back on . any help would be awesome as im sorta stumped ! Okay some of this I'm having a hard time understanding what you mean...When you say you have a problem with the number 2 cylinder and it has spark but no ignition are you meaning it is not getting fuel? How do you know if it isn't getting fuel? Not sure if you know this or not but since it is a throttlebody injection system you only have two injectors. On the 83-86 it should have two identical injector sizes for the primary and secondary. they both will fire synchroniously in these years if I remember correctly. So what I'm trying to say is if you're not getting fuel to the number 2, you're not getting fuel to any of the cylinders as it mixes before it enters the chamber unlike multi port injection. I don't mean to insult you as you may know all of this. Maybe I just misunderstood your statement. When you said that, quote: "i put new fuel in and left the line off the tb to purge the old gas out and it would not reach the tb until i bolted back on ." I'm also confused here as if it didn't flow off of the throttle body it will not flow when it is on the throttle body. If it is not reaching the throttle body, check the fuel line outlet (to tb) right at the fuel pump. There is a conical filter there inside of the line. You will have to pull the line off right at the fuel pump and pull the inline filter out with a pair of pliers. Do this after you have made sure that the fuel pump is kicking on when you turn the key by either listening or jumpering the fuel pump check harness with a paperclip by your airflow sensor and turning your key to on if i remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 yeah im getting fuel ,spark checked the plugs which are ngk gapped right .ill try taking that filter out .it almost seems like the fuel pressure is not enough to arrive at #2 cycl its bizzare .is there problems with these fuel pumps that instead of just quitting they slowly lose pressure ? ive tried almost everything other than that filter and a pressure gauge on the tb im just hoping someones had a simimlar problem as this thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 Check the connection at the cap/wire for number 2. I've thought it was connected and it wasn't before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 when i cleaned the tank i disconnected the fuel line off the tb and turned the pump on to get the crap gas out and nothing happened so when i bolted the fuel line back on i gained fuel pressure and the engine started Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 dude the wires are fine ive had 140 cars have you had any fuel pum or injector problems before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 thanks matrap i'll give that filter a try didnt know there was one in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 dude the wires are fine ive had 140 cars have you had any fuel pum or injector problems before? Swap you injector clips around. Mine did the same thing when it was trying to idle on the secondary, and it acted like number 2 was the culprit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 im sure theres no clips on these injectors i think i might figure this out on my own 'ill post the results for the flattie owners Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 im sure theres no clips on these injectors i think i might figure this out on my own 'ill post the results for the flattie ownersYeah, yours has the same size injectors. Forgot about that. One or both might be leaking. Makes it skip like hell until 3k rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 (edited) You may have a bad distributor cap, I've had them bad right out of the box. You still have the injector pigtails just that they are hardwired to the injector and the plug is different but it must be clean. The injectors are rather large and when dirty you can easily have too much fuel. You might consider having them cleaned. Fuel/air mix will reach every cylinder its a common intake. The fuel is dispensed up in the middle of that tall part that says ECI on the top and then it passes the throttle plate and enters a common center cavity in the intake just under the throttle body base. You can see the 50/50 split off that common cavity then each of those Y to two intake ports. Since you said the plugs look fine but one cylinder seems to be doing nothing could be the head is cracked in that cylinders combustion chamber and the coolant blowing into it is causing that. You got a LED on a stick? After its cooled down, pull out #2 and if you have a blue LED on a stick (Sears sells one its not LED but its a tiny light on the end of a flexible wand) and poke that into the cylinder and look for coolant laying on top the piston, if you use an LED the coolant will glow. Its also possible if you have plug wires with the boots not glued to the wire in the correct position as NGK does theirs, that the wire isn't all the way inserted into the cap or if the tower was greasy and there is air pressure sealed under the boot it just pushed itself back a little. If that happens, stick something to hold the boot away from the tower as the wire is fully inserted then pull it out this way you can't have any air sealed under the boot. I do that no matter what, the boots always seal in some air that can cause them to push back off especially when hot if there were greasy. http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268473_1456001778215_1778479606_712519_6797476_n.jpg Edited July 18, 2011 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom h Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 thanks ill give these things a try.i cleaned up the injector female connectors as well as the male connector .i found a crap load of rust in the tank and i dropped it and cleaned it out .i found a cool way to do it using salt water and a batery charger .worked like a hot damn .has anyone converted a 1983 to the newer comp and tb setup .ive got a line on the wiring harness and intake,tb and all sensors from a 1987 are the harnesses simular to the 1983? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Its not worth the trouble. The injectors for the 83-86 are the same size. 87-89s use injectors that are staged and you'll likely be trying to use a bad primary injector so then you'll end up looking for more injectors or having to buy those non OEM ones and the issues you'll have with those are worse compared to looking for this issue you have. 83s have a different way to control idle and it needs the coolant line running to it clean so it can circulate. You'll find wires under the dash that won't connect unless you rewire the plugs. Your car may have the modulator they put in to limit the TPS voltage to 3 instead of going all the way to 5 its on top the ECU/control relay and plugs in with a large extension harness. The cavity in the intake under the throttlebody is larger on the 83 intakes. I'd not change all that because of a leaky oring but you can get the throttlebody rebuild kit at the dealer. I'd tear the distributor down, clean and relube it. If it reacts slowly that's a problem. Some are so gummed up the vac. adv. arm pulls on the governor and nothing happens. http://www.b2600turbo.com/distributor.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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