Frenchi934 Posted May 23, 2012 Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) There are a lot of good reasons to put a wideband air/fuel gauge in your car. They can be used for troubleshooting when your car isn't running right, they can be used to make sure the factory ecu (or whatever you're running) can handle your modifications. They have the capability to help you datalog and tune your car. and they are also good piece of mind on older cars where injectors go bad and vacuum diaphragms leak. There are always multiple ways to do the job, but here's how I did it. First I pulled off the A-Piillar cover (because that is where I'm mounting the gauge) http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/9749/sdc12189f.jpg This stuff... http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/4919/sdc12187s.jpg I shoved the small harness down through the gap here: http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9605/sdc12193q.jpg to get it to come out down here: http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1683/sdc12194r.jpg As a side note, While i was in there I decided to fix my mechanical boost guage to dim with the rest of the lights, before the light came on and off with them, it just didnt dim. to do this, you run the positive wire from the light on the gauge to the green/ white wire and the negative (ground) to the black/yellow wire beside it) I also ran the gray wire from the AEM harness to this green/white wire for the instrument lighting. I could not find the dedicated instrument lighting ground (despite about half an hour of testing) to get it to dim with the lights, but it does come on and off with the lights so ill be happy with it for now) http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/6449/sdc12196m.jpg Edited May 23, 2012 by Frenchi934 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchi934 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Then I tested several sources to find a switched 12v source and a constant 12v source. I found them both on one connector. http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3673/sdc12197r.jpg In the picture below. On the right, the red and black wire is the constant source and the blue/white wire on the left is the switched source. They correspond with the red and pink wire respectively from the AEM harness While your up here, you should go ahead and run the black wire from the AEM harness to a solid, clean chassis ground, I used the one on the beam for the steering column. http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4814/sdc12199o.jpg Since the AEM manual calls for the 12v sources to have a 5A fuse, I decided to add decdicated fuses. http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/5392/sdc12205k.jpg http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/6587/sdc12198j.jpg made a bracket for the fuse box http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7953/sdc12201g.jpg http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6114/sdc12202b.jpg and put it up near the relays on the drivers side left kick panel for easy access. It mounts using the lower screw in the relay holder and tucks out of sight. http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/9743/sdc12204x.jpg http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6439/sdc12207n.jpg I marked and installed the gauge pod with rivets, and also had to put a small notch on the lower end of the pillar cover to allow for clearance for the cables. It is barely noticable once installed. http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/5244/sdc12208s.jpg Then I tucked up all the wires underneath the drivers side dash and ziptied up the analog output wires so that they are there if i decide to run something with them later. I also ran the O2 sensor wire around to the pass side console and down through the shifter hole (the plug on this thing is very large, I didnt see another alternative without serious delay) http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7287/sdc12210h.jpg Then it was just add another bung and done! http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9789/sdc12211b.jpg http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8756/sdc12212q.jpg http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/2773/sdc12213f.jpg Edited May 23, 2012 by Frenchi934 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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