Spydre13

speedyquest was going to buy it, but ran into issues with his bank/PayPal. I told him I'd wait a week, and if he's not ready I'll probably put it on eBay to let people bid on it. I guess I could do that anyway...I'm not sure what's better "forum etiquette", to go down the line or give everyone a chance to bid by putting it on eBay. Either way I'll post any updates so everyone knows. -Nate

Sorry for the late response guys, my days have been packed. I've been putting this off for a while now. Some people's replies sound like they think I have more than one, so I just want to make sure everyone knows, I only have the single louver that goes on the rear window. I don't have the two rear side ones, this car has never had them. Well, I guess with this much interest the price might go up... just kidding I will try to get a size and weight, and shipping quote for speedyquest since he was the first to respond. If he changes his mind I'll continue down the list. Hopefully I can get the quote tomorrow or Saturday. Old picture of when it was on the car: New pictures (haven't cleaned it off or anything):

Since I sold my car a while ago (http://www.starquest...howtopic=143778) and the buyer didn't want the rear louver, I'm offering it for sale in case anyone on here wants one. I don't have the sides, I don't think they were ever on the car. It is the metal one (OEM I think) with hinges. A couple of the rivets in there are just a tiny bit loose, but overall it's in good shape. If anyone is interested I can post pictures. I would sell it for cheap, just a little bit to make it worth my S&H time, but shipping might be expensive. I did see someone mention shipping with Greyhound in another post though, so maybe it wouldn't be that bad. If nobody is interested in a couple weeks, I'll probably just scrap it. -Nate

Yes, you're right. When I posted the original ad I was mentioning that from memory. After I got under the car and looked later I saw it and took that picture, so that the buyer could see it for himself. It was pretty much a done deal so I didn't edit the first post. Car is sold to Greg23, hopefully he enjoys it as much (or more) than I did!

Added pictures of the interior for anyone interested. Currently pending sale to Greg.

Wow, yeah you are really close. I have no idea how much just the interior would sell for. You could always buy the car, swap interiors, and then re-sell it Replied to your PM.

Thanks. I hate to let it go, if I had the time and money to do what I wanted to it I would keep it. My kid's toys are taking over the garage though, and I'd rather have someone else make use of it instead of having it sit around. Good point, I'll work on that. I have much of the rear interior removed because I re-ran some wires and was tracking down a clunking noise a few years back. Now I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from around the rear passenger wheel, I just need to jack it up and take a look at it some day. The interior (when put back together) is actually in good shape, with some slight wear on the driver seat (to be expected) and the middle console lid vinyl has cracked on the side (I repaired it once but I think it cracked again). I would say the rear is in mint condition and the passenger seat is in very good/excellent condition. I'll start putting the stuff back together and then take some pictures. I also forgot to mention, I would possibly sell the rear window louver if anyone wants just that, and I also have a working stock radio if someone wants that (I saw a post a year back with someone asking for one).

I haven't had time or money to spend on my Conquest for the past few years, so thought I'd offer it for sale instead of letting it sit there. LOCATION: Holland, MI SHIPPING: Will work with purchaser on any reasonable request MILEAGE: 129812, about 44000 on remanufactured Jasper engine PRICE: $3000, open to offers RUNS: Yes MANUAL/AUTOMATIC: Manual RUST?: Small spot of surface rust underneath car on frame rail, about 8 inches long, can be easily ground and repainted OPTIONS: non-SHP, no sunroof PREFERRED CONTACT METHOD: Email first to exchange contact info, and then any method Pictures: https://plus.google....857919618092481 I have owned this car for 15 years. Mechanically it is in great condition, with a remanufactured Jasper engine and many upgrades. There is no rust on the body, but the paint is faded and there are a few dings. It does have the factory alloy wheels with only a couple dents on the outer rim that do not cause any leaks. About 3-4 years ago I removed the entire drivetrain behind the transmission and replaced every bearing, bushing, seal, etc., cleaned and painted it. I also put in some ProSport gauges (including AFR) and got the engine running perfectly. I drove it for about 1.5 summers until I had to start bringing my daughter to daycare in the morning, and haven't driven it (other than moving it around) since then. I had fully intended to repaint it, upgrade the turbo, convert to MPI or swap engine, etc., but I don't have the time or money to spend on it anymore. The good: - Duralast Gold battery in great condition - BFGoodrich g-Force Sport tires - front are newer and have more tread left - Comes with new front and rear ceramic brake pads still in box. I was going to replace rotors with drilled/slotted before putting them on - Has rear window louver painted to body color (not on in pictures, top mounts need to be re-attached) - Tinted rear windows - New kicker speakers - Wired for subwoofer, currently has 10" JBL with 360-watt amp that I might include - Black cloth interior - Sony MP3 CD player with adapter to keep steering wheel controls - Radiator was replaced a few years ago - A/C still works - New vacuum advance - Rebuilt throttle body (cleaned and new gaskets from intake manifold up) - All new fusible links - New fuel filter The bad: - Crack on driver side of windshield, completely drive-able though - Small crack on driver side of front air dam, should be fixable since it's fiberglass - Paint peeling around front bumper - Paint overall is not in good condition, a couple dings, etc. Upgrades: - New/upgraded fuel injectors - New Bosch red coil, NGK blue 8mm wires - Downpipe and B-pipe (still have original exhaust to put back on) - ProSport boost gauge in stock location - ProSport fuel pressure, AFR, and coolant temp gauges in center console - Stedebani short throw shifter - Aluminum over-valve-cover pipe with Greddy blow-off valve - Aluminum intake pipe with K&N air filter - HKS turbo timer - New KYB shocks all around (MR-2 conversion in rear), with new OEM strut mounts - ECU trouble code LED installed to read codes and see when car is warmed up - EGR removed with block-off plate installed Please feel free to ask questions, give suggestions, bash, etc. Just thought I would see if there is any interest, if not I'll just keep it and see what happens in a few years.

Besides a 5 speed, what else are you looking for? I have a red 88 Conquest that I've been thinking about selling in Holland, MI. The body isn't in great shape...not rusty just dings, faded, etc. I did a bunch of stuff to it about 2 years ago (struts, drivetrain, AFR, etc), but I don't really have time to spend on it anymore.

Okay, so there's good news and bad news. The good news is you were both right, I compared my ProSport electronic gauge to several other gauges and it is reading about 8-10 psi high. I've narrowed it down to the sender, it says it's 0-10 bar -> 10-180 ohm, but that's not what it's putting out. I have verified that my ProSport mechanical boost gauge is dead on though. The bad news is I already have the Aeromotive FPR, so I need to decide whether to send it back or just put it on anyway. Back to the remaining problem though, the car drives good but when I come to a stop it almost dies. Most of the time it hangs on, but every once in a while it will die. I drove about 75 miles today, and the AFR at cruise and idle is actually between 14.5 - 16.5. Then at idle every 5-6 seconds the idle speed will increase a little bit and the AFR jumps up a point or two, then it stabilizes again. Also, if I'm driving up a slight hill and the boost/vacuum gauge (mechanical) reads about 5inHg and I let off the gas, I can hear the BOV. It seems like that shouldn't happen, but maybe it's just because the turbo is spooled? Should I adjust the BOV so it won't do that? I don't hear it if I just rev the engine up and let off the gas, but I can't check it with my hand like Indiana suggested because it blows down right into the belt pulley, about 1.5-2 inches away. Do you guys have ideas of what to look for? I've checked the IC hoses for leaks, replaced the fuel injectors, rebuilt the throttle body, etc. I'm wondering if the TPS is wearing out, or if I should try a new main O2 sensor (I have a 8-10 year old Bosch 3-wire). I also checked the ECU codes, and nothing is set once the car warms up. Thanks again for all your help, Nate

Bill, I tested with a cheap(er) Actron mechanical gauge, and that showed a constant 40 psi. I'm not sure which to trust then, Actron mechanical or ProSport electronic. Maybe I'll try to find a 3rd to compare. I have ordered the FPR already, and I could send it back but I might just do the mod anyway since it seems like a 23 year old stock FPR is going to have issues eventually. I'm curious though, if the fuel pressure is higher than normal wouldn't the ECU adjust accordingly using the oxygen sensor? Wouldn't it just pulse the injectors less often to lower the amount of fuel? Also, is there a "normal" or "desired" AFR for idle and cruising? Sorry, I know that's a lot of questions for one post, but I do appreciate the advice -Nate

Are you sure that's not somebody else? I haven't started any other threads recently. I replaced the vacuum advance last year, it wasn't holding vacuum. After that I checked the timing and did the ISC/TPS reset. I should probably do that again though now that I have new Delphi injectors. Last night I disconnected the return hose and ran a new hose to a gas can, then turned on the fuel pump with the test jumper. My gauge still showed 45psi, so I'm just going to put in an Aeromotive FPR (ordered it last night). I'll check if the BOV is leaking tonight, and let you guys know what I find. Thanks!

I've owned the car for 12 years and haven't touched the fuel pump, and the previous owner didn't say anything about it, so I'm assuming its the stock pump. I'll check the return line today or tomorrow to make sure nothing is restricted. EDIT: Also, the fuel pressure does increase 1:1 with boost, which makes me think it's not a restriction, but I will check to make sure. The BOV is a Greddy, I didn't adjust it or anything yet. I do hear it open when I let off the gas and the boost is only 1-2 psi, should I adjust it higher than that?

Hey guys, I finally got AFR and Fuel Pressure gauges installed, and it looks like my base fuel pressure (stock FPR) is about 48-49 psi (assuming the ProSport electronic gauge is accurate). I have two new Delphi injectors, and I'm wondering if that pressure is too high and could cause issues. A couple problems I've had for years that I'm still trying to solve are: - When stopping the engine rpm drops really low, and the engine does die very rarely, but then will restart. - The engine "diesels" when turning it off. I'm not sure if that is normal for these cars, but it does it more than any other car I've driven. It almost shakes when turning the engine off. I thought getting new injectors might take care of this, but it still does it. The AFR when cruising and idling is about 14.0-14.5. I'm thinking of buying a Aeromotive RRFPR (after I check the return line), but I'm wondering if it would even make a difference. Also, wondering how many people are using bypass valves instead of blow-off valves to keep the AFR more stable. I've heard using a MAP sensor instead of MAF would help, but I'm not planning on MPI anytime soon. I don't think the GM MAF with MAFT would make a difference on this, would it? Thanks!

If anyone around Michigan needs one, let me know. Otherwise I'll just get one shipped.