NewCONQUESTowner

One more thing, also the drivers side rear quarter glass?

How much for the multi port relay, the 8 pin relay that is mounted rite above the ECU, that and a dizzy... Also if they wont be too much to ship, the small/long plastic grill and header panel, shipped to Fort Walton Beach Fl. 32547. Thanks. Frank

Ok, can anyone point me in the right direction to find a "new grind" cam and adj. cam gear, even if you know of anyone who has one used that would work... Right this exact second I do not have the money because my father just died 2 days ago and a good portion of my money has gone to helping with his funeral and all of the other stuff that goes along with it... This sux, I am soooo lost, I have never had to deal with this before, my father has been everything to my family and myself... But I am working on this car non-stop to keep my mind from thinking about it all, so I am tearing the car appart just to find stuff to fix and possibly make better for cheap or free just to keep myself occupied, I dont really want to put the motor all the way together just to pull some stuff back apart to replace the cam thats why I am finding other stuff to tinker with untill I find a cam or decide to go with the stock one. Frank.

-So what was the red line of your 2.1? It "could" be twisted up to 10,350 but the power had fallen off seriously at 9,800 and the logger started going ape-s*** at 10,200 thats why we didnt keep going. We set my rev-limiter at 10,000, and I shifted at 9,700. I shift my 2.3 at 8,400 and the rev-limiter is set at 8,600. -Im not decided on this yet. I may indeed go with a 2.0, 2.3, or 2.4. But certain things attract me to the 2.1, such as longer piston dwell and less sideways force on the pistons. A lot of it leads me to believe the 2.1 can be more reliable (for a daily driver), especially if I dont plan for too high a redline (8500rpm on the 2.1 is fairly mild, right?). I prefer the 2.3, but the 2.0 can rev pretty high too and still have a pretty torque curve, but being that my talon is AWD with a rather large snail, I love the oobber torque of the 2.3, the reliability of the motor is not my soul concern being that its a drag car, but its bashed time and time again almost every weekend, between test-n-tune on fridays and then racing on saturdays, I have only had to rebuild the motor twice in the past year and a half, the 2.1 never had to be rebuilt and my orignal 2.0 was rebuilt more times than I care to recall because of my learning what works and what doesnt, and a few times due to stupidity... But I have plenty of friends who run a 2.0 putting out some impressive power numbers and dont have "reliability" issues other than your normal maintainance. 8,500rpm wouldnt be s*** for a 2.1 depending on your combination of parts, but keep in mind that high RPMs in pretty much any motor will take their toll over time if they werent intentionally built that way and depending on how meticulous you are building it, will depend on how "reliable" the motor is in the long run. Frank

Do you still have the header panel, if so how much shipped to 32547. Frank

Are the door pannels still in good shape... How much for the foglight/marker lights, filler panel between the bumper and hood, tail lights and the door panels... Oh and also is the fuse/relay/fuseable link box next to the battery still in good shape, how much for that?

From having experiance with that, its a great high revving little thing, but low-end grunt is greatly reduced, granted you are going to be dropping it in a RWD car, but from having one in my AWD, it took a bit for that thing to get up enough a$$ to really get moving, the 2.3 stroker that I am running now, with the exact same setup as ran on the 2.1 only revs 1400rpm lower at peak and pulls much harder off the line and keeps that torque pretty much all the way through the powerband, with the SQ being a few lbs heavier I see the 2.1 having a harder time getting a RWD moving without getting beat to the 60ft mark... Not trying to discourage you, but a 2.3 with a decreased rotating weight = lightweight flywheel, lightened crank, and a few other little tricks, a good flowing head with a turbo that wont lagg like hell off the line but doesnt fall off at 7500rpm, and a good tune, a 2.3 will tickel your fancy a little bit better IMO. Frank

I couldnt agree more, I am keeping mine stock unless at some time it needs to be bored out, then it will just go .020 over... The turbo I am looking at is a precision 60-1 DBB, only problem is I will need a new manifold, but rite now I am trying to focus my attention to the head, valves, springs, cam and whatnot.

I am not argueing the fact that it can be done and is done every day, my fathers 561ci alcohol burner turns 7200 through both shifts, I dont remember the exact bore size but its somewhere around 5 3/16"... But that motor was designed to move those slugs as well as your example of the Ford 428... You start asking our motor to move pistons MUCH bigger than stock, and it probibly wont like it too much due to it wasnt designed to move slugs of that size, and the outcome will probibly be messy because the rod changing directions quickly and trying to shift from a downward motion to an upward motion, puts a bit of stress on that point of the rod where the wristpin connects to the piston. I am not trying to argue with you, but you would be hard pressed to get much of any 4 banger to move pistons equiling 3.0L without the possibility of something comming apart due to the stress of slamming that mass around... without being designed to do so. Thats not to say that it cant be done, but the thought of a 2.6 punched over to a 3.0L and spinning past 5k kinda puckers my butthole alittle.

One more thing to keep in mind is the fact that if you could bore it out to a 3.0 or have it sleeved to accept that kind of displacement, the pistons would be so heavy, you would have to keep in mind the traveling mass of the piston and think of the speed that the piston will be moving, you probibly couldnt get it to rev past 5k without risk of it comming apart.

Well thats good to know, I was mainly wondering simply because the price wasnt bad so I figured if it was a better cam I would go ahead and aquire one while the motor is apart... I grew up on V8's, have built more than I know what to do with, I never did run a regrind simply because I didnt trust them and I wanted more lift in the cam... It wasnt untill I met my wife that I got into imports because she owned a 1G eclipse, and now for the past 8 years I have been building and modifying imports... I have even thought about combineing the two, finding a, ok, starquest with no motor or tranny and dropping my 383 in it that has been sitting for the past 2 years with nothing for it to go in. Thanks for the info though, you all just saved me some money and a lot of headache. Frank

Seriously... Everytime I have a question, Indiana, you always have the info I am looking for... You are awesome! I have ran into many DSMers that just drop cams in and go and complain that the power gained wasnt worth the money spent, so they spend the money again on bigger cams and better retainers and locks and think that they then have a good combo. For what its worth, the other day I had a kid try me when I was in my mothers 98 GS eclipse with the 420a, he also had a 420a powered eclipse, moms motor is a 10.5:1 comp motor with a mild port-n-polished head and Brian Crower S1 cams which is just a little beefier than stock, this kid had a 11:1 comp motor, stage 2 head with 1mm OS valves and cams that are about 2 stages bigger and moms car was faster than his, he wanted to know how, when everything that he had done was matched and bigger than what is in moms, after talking to him he said he orignally had the same cams as I, but they didnt produce the power expected so he went bigger, I asked him if he degreed the cams after installation, he said no, I told him thats his problem, they werent running proper so he wasnt getting the full benifit of aftermarket cams, we pulled his motor out and degreed the cams because you cant do it with the motor in the car, after all was done he said it pulled like a whole new car and like it gained 30 or 40 hp, I told him it probibly did because now the cam timing is in spec... This kid acted like you just handed him a million dollars he was so happy with his new found "proper" power, I told him I never install a aftermarket cam without degreeing it first... Its just pointless... But thank you again Indiana, and thank you in advance for future replys to any of my questions asked.

I was roaming around e-bay recently and I found this camshaft, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Conquest-Starion-Schneider-Racing-Cam-274-284-292_W0QQitemZ230408536976QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a56b4390... My question is, is this even a worthy buy, if so, which one would be best, I know that all depends on setup and other factors but I am mainly talking about the pros and cons of each cam, estimated hp gain of each, any drivability issues, I know you have to make sacrifices in drivability to a point when modding but I am mainly talking about... Idle so lumpy that the overlap or lack of overlap causes vacume issues and/or stalling, powerband so high that it wont do anything untill 4500rpm and then I have to shift at 5800... Lets say that none of this becomes a factor, does the cam have to be degreed-in uppon installation, if so, how would that be done, is there an adjustable cam sproket, if so, where can you find them... I know, so many questions, probibly a lot of dumb ones but I cant seem to find diddly on the "details" of cam choice. I am trying to get any and all info I can before I venture into this motor because this thing sure behaves much differently to certin mods than what I am use to. Thanks in advance. Frank

I too had a similar problem with my 91 talon tsi... Quite a few people along with the dyno shop told me I had phantom knock and I spent the good part of 2 weeks taking everything apart and slowly putting it all back together with lock washers and locktite to make sure everything was tight and making sure nothing touched and I went to extremes to try and find the "phantom knock", it was still there, after 2 months of trying this and trying that, a friend of mine asked what I thought to be at first a dumb question... You have your balance shafts eliminated dont you... Then it hit me, DUH, so I pulled the motor apart, had the flywheel mated to the crank along with the crank pulley and balanced as one assembily, balanced the piston rod combo, put it all back together, phantom knock was gone. The only thing I can guess is the harmonic distortion inside the motor due to the shafts being gone caused the phantom knock.

Ok... After looking through the pics of I guess that was your car... I saw the hose that you used and how the hoses were run, I guess a little bit more looking and I would have answered my own question and it explained it for me... MAD PROPS on that setup... That is so very clean... I am going to get on that bypass rite away now that I understand... I will PM if I have any questions... AGAIN, THANK YOU. Frank