makskylan

Best offer?

Please refer to the previous post for pictures... Just click on the Craigslist link.. Thanks

I have a 1987 Chrysler Conquest for sale. This is a 5 speed car, 4 wheel disc brakes, posi independent rear end. Car is not running and motor has been removed from the car. I rebuilt the bottom end but something wiped the bearing out. The crank has been turned 0.010 on the mains and 0.010 on the rods. I have many new parts ( Alabama Head, timing chain assembly, fuel pump, vacuum advance, rebuilt turbo).Ported throttle body, custom made hard line with 1G blow off and mass air sensor. It has black leather interior that is in great condition (seats are not ripped). I relocated the heater controls under the radio and made a gauge pod in the old heater control location. Please call (740) 244-6414. Price is $1000.00 Located in Upper Sandusky Ohio can send pictures upon request

I am in need of a good running short block. I don't need accessories or anything like that. I need block, crank, rods, pistons, etc. Can anyone help me out? I live in Ohio. Would be interested in having it shipped if possible.

How much are you asking for the block and crank?

Yeah send me some pics and more info on the motor if you can. How much would shipping be or is that included in your price?

I am in need of a good running short block. I have been off the forums for a year or so. I have an 87 Quest that i rebuilt the motor in. It had spun a bearing originally. I had the crank turned 10 on the mains and 20 on the rods. I have new rings, removed the balance shafts, new timing chain, an Alabama head, etc. The only thing I did not replace was the oil pump. Any ways it started knocking after about 100 miles on the rebuild. pulled it and something went through the bearings again. So I need a short block that I can throw all of my new stuff on and get it running again. I don't want to rebuild again.Shipping to 43302. Thanks for the time and info.

is the block still available? Makskylan@yahoo.com

I spun a bearing on the #1 cylinder. I bought a new rod for that one. I had tha crank turned .010 on the rods and .020 on the mains. I should of resized the rods.Live and learn I guess....

I know I need to replace the sender. I installed the mech gauge just to prove out the sender and gauge. I will check the flywheel bolts.

I have rebuilt my motor over the past year and a few weeks ago I finallly drove it on the street. I got to work and noticed I had 0 psi on my oil gauge. I noticed a knock also. I drove it home about I miles, only way to get it there. I installed a mechanical gauge the next day and I have 80 plus psi on start up and about 60 psi when warm. The knock is not noticable at idle, only when reved up. I haven't drove it since. Any suggestions? The only thing I didn't do is resize my rods on the rebuild and I think that came back to bite me in the a**.....thanks

I have already done that bout a year ago.

After cleaning thee banj fittings the problem was still there.. I instaalled a pipe in place of the main cat, but the cat was already hollow. I bought a new vaccum advance and installed itt today. I installed a new hose on the old one and tried the suck test and it would not move at all. So hopefully this will help fix my issue with the glowing turbo, falling on its face, and it running lean. I will drive it later and find out.

I also have two black injectors on my car as well. The secondary one is a Python injector. I am not sure what the part # is but it is engraved into it. I am having a bad issue with glowing turbo and manifold and need to be sure this is the right one. does anyone have any info on python injectors?