Mattastica

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230931714735#v4-41 This is for the rolling chassis, with long block. Please read full description on ebay. Thank you, Matt

I've got to get rid of this. $4,500 for the car, with a short block. I've pulled off all the easy expensive items (turbo, intake, Haltech ECU), but left on many items like the brand new radiator, fuel pump (walbro 255), SS fuel line etc. If you are interested please PM and I'll get more specifics. I'll be throwing the car on ebay soon.

I've got to get rid of this. $4,500 for the car minus anything listed above. So it comes with the short block as described above. I still have all parts except the Magna intake and Haltech parts. I'll be throwing the car on ebay soon.

I'm in Saint Louis, MO. I have the 83 hood, but right now it will go with the rolling chassis w/ long block. If I change my mind I will let you know.

Sure, I can make a deal (PM Sent). But the Magna has been sold. I just removed all the parts today, except the starter and crank pulley.

I've decided to part out my project car, the original whole car post is here. I do not have time to part it out completely, I'm just going to remove the easy stuff. That being said, if you are interested in the rolling chassis, see the original post and just subtract what is posted here and that's what you get unless you want to bargain for anything in this list. All prices are negotiable: All parts were purchased new, installed, but never used unless otherwise noted $500 - Magna intake modified by Chad, installed but never used. (SOLD) $700 - Haltech Sprint 500 with long harness $200 - Modified Crank pulley, magnetic sensor with custom sensor bracket $900 - Turbonetics 60-1 series Ceramic ball baring T3/T4 Turbo $250 - T3 Exhaust Manifold $250 - Turbonetics EVO Wastegate $350 - 4 Injectors 850cc with leads and clips $120 - Haltech dual ignition module $80 - 2 dual output coils $180 - Fuel pressure regulator (click here) $100 - Alternator (i think it is a remanufactured, like new though) $50 - Starter (remanufactured, like new though) $6000 - Rolling Chassis with rebuilt engine with Wiseco 8-1 forged pistons, ARP bolts, Clevite bearings. Top end is stock rebuild with new lifters, bearings, and gasket set. New oil pump, removed balance shafts, all new timing, Centerforce dual friction clutch. The body was done by a professional, no Bondo on this car, all bad metal was cut out and new metal welded in. Two sections of the subframe where cut out and new metal welded in. I will be as upfront as possible to avoid not meeting expectations during final sale. The only bad things I can say about the body and chassis... Every thing that could come off was taken off, sandblasted, but not powder coated, I painted all sandblasted parts myself with engine paint. I can't say for sure that all suspension and steering components that were reused were reconditioned perfect, like the springs I just sandblasted and repainted with the assumption that I would come back later and replace with new. The underbody was not completely stripped and recoated, only the sections that got new metal were stripped and recoated with under chassis coating. Except for the engine bay, everything was stripped with baking soda blaster as far down as he could get. The interior is partly put together, I can take more pictures, but you will get it as is. The seats are not in good condition, but otherwise the interior is in fair condition. All parts listed in the original post (link above) that are not explicitly listed above are assumed to come with the car. Once I can get over to storage and start pulling off the parts I can provide detailed pics of each part. Until then here are the pics i have on hand... http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0192.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0550.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00406.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00409.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0542.jpg?w=700&h=

Yeah, I knew going in that I was going to spend a lot of money on it and would never be able to recoup it. At this point I'm not willing to part it out. Unless I can sell it as is I will have to just keep it in storage until I move back into a house with a garage where I can finish it. Thanks to everyone for your interest, sorry to change my mind on the parting it out, I just can't do it.

Here are the up to date photos. Couple of items I remembered and more details... - Radiator is brand new - Needs center link, steering linkage is not connected right now - Although I bought new calipers, they are not installed, needs new brake line to rear brakes. - All parts that are supposed to be blue have been painted except spoiler, as mentioned before, the spoiler was not repairable. It was not broken, just to warped for the body guy to fix - Some black trim pieces have not been painted, front windshield and rear window pieces. - Right tail light has a crack, but appears to be in good condition otherwise - No A/C, I never had any intention of installing it, this was not meant to be a daily driver, most A/C parts were thrown away - As you can see, the interior is not fully together. Aside from the seats the interior is in decent condition - The undercarriage was not fully stripped and re painted. Only the frame rail sections that were replaced and near the engine bay where repainted with an under body coating - No body filler at all, this body was completely stripped to bare metal (except undercarriage), any rust was cut out and new metal welded in. - All rear glass has new window tint, professionally done with the windows out of the car - Valve cover needs a real paint job - pic of engine shows an OEM fuel rail, an aftermarket one was purchased and comes with the car http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0542.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0541.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0543.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0544.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0545.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0548.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0549.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0550.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0554.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0557.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0560.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0562.jpg?w=700&h=

Well, I'd really rather not part out the car. I'm trying to get a feel for my options. If I don't get any interest from anyone wanting to buy the whole car as is then I may just have to suck it up and pay a shop to finish it. The issue with that is that paying someone to finish it could cost anywhere from $5k-$10k I'm guessing. I'm also guessing when it is done it will be worth no more than $16k and I would have spent $26k, if I cut my loses now I will lose less money and someone else can get a good deal and finish it breaking even as far as total cost vs market value. Somewhere between the start of the project and now my priorities changed.

This is my three year project car, I have dumped about $16k into it. I no longer have a house with a garage so it is sitting in storage costing me $100 a month. I'm in Saint Louis, MO and could arrange delivery depending on the price and location. Here are the major things that are left... Intake system - I have a magna intake manifold from Chad as you can see, needs custom intake piping, intercooler and BOV Exhaust System - Other than manifold and Turbo the entire exhaust system needs done Finish Fuel system - All parts have been purchased and mostly installed, needs completed (may needs some fittings) Engine Management System and distributeless ignition - All purchased and partly installed Interior - Partially reinstalled, seats aren't any good.. I wouldn't use them anyway Head - Everything about this car was centered around obtaining 400HP, the only compromise I made that will keep you from obtaining that is the head. I had to put the car back together to put it in storage, so I rebuilt the stock head instead of buying the brand new Marnal head. I completely assembled the engine, so you can run with it as is or you can pull the head off and put on a properly built head. http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0192.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00409.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0098.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00406.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0203.jpg?w=1000&h= I will go out and take current pics this weekend. I don't have any in its current state, right now all the windows, hood, and body panels are installed, sans the front clip, bumper, and spoiler. I do not have a rear spoiler, the body guy could not repair the stock one. It does come with a pint or so of extra paint. Below is a break down of the cost. Don't let the meager $4k body work fool you, I sanded it down to the bare metal myself (except the engine bay, the body guy sand blasted that). Also, the body guy was nice enough to work on it between insurance jobs so it took forever, but he was able to do a good job for a good price. He cut out a few sections of metal and welded in new around the rear fenders. He also cut out two sections in the frame rail and welded in new metal. If you see any question marks next to the price it means I can't find the receipt and am going off memory, I think I only have two of those. Project Site http://mmcclaskey.wordpress.com/ What do I want? I would prefer not to part out the car. I would sell it as is for $10k or a good offer. The next option would be to part it out. If you are interested in the rolling chassis, please give me an offer and I will consider parting it out. I think it would be easy to sell the turbo, manifolds, etc, but the rolling chassis would be the hard part. I might also consider trades for a daily driver car for my wife, if the bluebook value is in the right range. Parts and Labor break down TEP ----------- $899 - Haltech Sprint 500 EMS with long harness $41 - Trigger wheel $80 - Magnetic pickup $185 - Modified crank pulley, 6" wheel and bracket $310 - Turbonetics EVO Wastegate $299 - T3 Exhaust Manifold $1,144 - Turbonetics 60-1 series Ceramic ball baring T3/T4 Turbo Radical Rods (body shop) --------------------------- $4,000 - Repaired frame rails, repaired rusted metal in body (welded in new metal), sandblasted entire engine bay, repaired dents, primed and painted body Jay Racing --------------------------- $450 - Injectors 850cc with leads and clips $76 - magnetic pickup $143 - Haltech dual ignition module $104 - 2 dual output coils $265 - Fuel pressure regulator $20 - Turbo coolant adapters OReilly's ------------------ $86 - Starter $131 - Altenator $75 - Hoses, belts, clamps $102 - Battery Rock Auto ----------------- $112 - 2 upper strut mounts $33 - Wheel bearings, seals front and rear $23 - OEM brake hoses $100 - KYB front struts $23 - KYB strut bellows $80 - 4 Tie Rod ends $54 - 2 lower ball joints $35 - Stabilizer bar link kit and control arm bushings $26 - Temperature Sender $7 - Temp Sensor $36 - Water pump $23 - Oil pressure switch $10 - Transmission Mount $27 - Motor Mounts $32 - Head Bolts $55 - Head Gasket kit $44 - Parking brake cable $5 - Backup lamp switch $36 - clutch pilot bearing, clutch slave cylinder $19 - Battery cables $13.60 - Valve springs x8 $33 - Universal Joint $82 - rear caliper $42 - Conversion gasket set Engine Machine Service ----------------------------------- $34 - BK1C 6-PC BSE Kit (cam bearings I think) $47 - Camshaft timing kit $192 - Oil Pump $45 - Hydraulic lifters $50 - intake and exh studs $81 - Timing kit, balance shaft removal kit $702 - Wiseco 8-1 forged pistons, Clevite Rod bearings, lower gasket set, brass plug set, ARP Rod bolt kit Summit Racing --------------------------------- $56 - Braided steel clutch hydraulic line, banjo bolt and adapters $280 - Walbro 255lph fuel pump, braided steel fuel line, 6AN fuel adapters, Fuel Filter, 90 degree swivel 6AN adapter $185 - Oil radiator, hose, fittings, adapters Misc -------------------------- $305 - tinted rear windows $45 - Rear speakers $329 - New front lip $450 - ($149 shipping included in that price) New 83' style hood Fiberglass reinforced plastic $71 - Fuel rail for Magna intake $300 - Sandblasting (baking soda blasting actually) of all underbody parts (sub frame, control arms, sway bar, anything that came off and got reused for the most part) $300 - Centerforce Dual friction clutch $50-80? - Both front calipers (can't find receipt, but they are new or rebuilt) $100 - Rear struts $700? - Lower end rebuild, labor only Total ---------------- $12,833 - new parts and labor $2,700 - Orig purchase price ------- $16,233

Awesome, thanks Chad.

I'm getting close to getting this car done, it has been almost two years now. I have a couple questions (more to come I'm sure). http://www.macs-site.net/images/engine123.jpg A = ? Coolant return, assuming it goes to E or F B = ? C = Coolant return line from heater core, goes to E or F? D = ? Another coolant return line F = ? heater core G = to MAP sensor H = ? I = To brake booster J = To I I would appreciate some help on this, just want to ensure I have everything right. One last thing, What do I do with the vapor line on the gas tank, I was going to just run a hard line up and out of the way a few feet and cap it off with a filter. Do I need to use a valve that will keep a certain pressure or do I just stick a filter on it? Thanks, Matt

Thanks Dad, I threw the old oil pump out put still had the old balance shaft laying around and it worked great. Matt

Sweet! Well, seems how I completely stripped the car done to the bone, then moved, and am now putting it all back together... that key way is long gone if it wasn't in the bag. Guess I will go to the Items Wanted section. Thanks, Matt

I bought a new oil pump, balance shaft removal kit, and timing kit. The sprocket has a notch, and the oil pump that it bolts to has a notch, but both notches go inward which is not incredibly useful. Am I missing a pin of some kind? http://16grbg.blu.livefilestore.com/y1prQrFePi8OdFnxWQglp86o3SqxABb-Jvbm181gMv4FFX0wSUvc9XT1HdxKNzsUw8N13PXoF6CxeJ0KATv-BiJGH4PX3fOqYiK/IMG_0153.JPG