Boosted77.
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Posts posted by Boosted77.
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I just get out of people's way. I'm blessed to have two nice cars, and neither one of them do I want to wreck because someone is following me closely. They've made it apparent that their driving habits are somewhat dangerous and I'm not going to be the one to get on their level. Just move over and be a responsible adult.
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All you have to do is Google her name and you'll find tons of stuff popping up minute after minute. For those who may not know who she is, maybe you'll know this song she sang back in 2007. Won a bunch of Grammy's for it too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LTPRJqt2z4 Also you can go to Youtube and Google her name to watch several videos about her death popping up.
Drugs are bullstinky.
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I seriously like seeing the AC go back in. Purist to the T. I miss my AC on these hot, humid days around Atlanta, Ga.
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Se la ve my love.
I would of kept the windshield and side glass though. Especially the window motors if they were still there. I have two extras. It's gonna a lot harder to find it when you need it in the near future(and the future is this car's enemy), than it is to take it off and stash it somewhere now. Then just walk over in the comfort and privacy of your own garage, pick it up and install it off your shelf. I don't sell any parts since the last time I sold a rare part to a local member and then when mine popped, I had to go and search (everywhere), buy one for an exorbitant amount when before that, I had it sitting there for years all dusty and free of charge. I was pissed at myself.
Which this is why I hoard parts like a troll and have for over 10 years. I've got so many parts stashed for this car it isn't funny. Like 4 turbos (for the cartridges), extra steering column with key, tons of extra fan relays, several igniters, extra fans, AC compressor, extra intake mani's, like 5 TB's, 4 or 5 TPS's, 2 extra fuse blocks with the fuses and relays, ISC's and MPS's galore, 4 dizzis, 2 extra oil sending units, brake calipers, on and on. Remember all, these cars will start to have new and different problems the older they get and all those parts that no-one grabs today because "that hardly ever goes bad" they'll wish they had. Like rear ends. Hardly anyone ever changes one out, but the day will come. Hardly anyone ever changes out a window motor or head light motor. Side glass is another thing. Who sells side glass for the SQ? No one does, that's who.
These cars are pushing 30 years old now! I was 9 when my car was made in Japan and shipped here to the USA. Now I'm 35 and have been sitting in the seat of the same Conquest TSI, and nothing else I might add, since I was 21 years old. That's old for a high-tech 80's computerized science-project car with lots of sensors. This isn't a Camaro or Mustang with a motor and trans in the engine bay that'll run easily with out a computer telling it what to do. Ya'll get the point.
Keep everything you can for this car. In another few short years, if it's not for us right here on SQC and couple other places, there won't be sh!t for this car any more, anywhere.
For everybody's information, I'm the guy that got Mookeh started on here. He had never even heard of SQC until I told him about this place. His real name is M Ja. He is Chinese. He was selling odd sensors on Ebay when I met him several years ago. I was trolling Ebay when I stumbled upon his auction and looked at his ad. He had a random picture of a '83 SQ hood in it, but the item he was selling had nothing to do with a SQ. Come to find out he owned an '87. We started emailing back and forth. I talked to him about him making a CF hood since he had solid connects in China for all sorts of stuff. I saw prototype pictures of his CF hood long before anyone on here saw them; even before he joined here. I know how guys can be on here. I knew this guy was the ticket on getting some cool sh!t for these cars and I wasn't about to let some of these friggen haters on here screw it up and scare him off. Ofcourse many guys said the CF hood would never happen after I posted the first thread about it. About a month later he joined and dropped a bomb on all ya'lls tails and posted pictures of his CF hood and offered it for sale. Everybody shut up then. Look at him now. It was me, SQC, and Ebay that got him where he is today. I had the insight to know that this guy, being Chinese, and having real connections to automotive parts manufactures in China would be a great asset to the SQ community. I've watched over and over for almost 10 years now, guys saying they could do this and that, make this and that, to no avail. Guys put up money, pages and pages of discussion that go no where, everybody walks out. No one even gets mad anymore. Where else can you get rear struts for the car now? No where except him. D2's don't count. Not everyone's gonna shell out a G on some coil overs. I'm not. Think 5 years ago, the parts you could go buy off the shelf, and then think 5 years from now.
I haven't bought a single nut bolt or screw for this car in 10 years, other than a couple 17 mm nuts for my exhaust studs last year. Every time I see a SQ in a junkyard, which is getting to be a very rare site, I take off screws, nuts, and bolts and fuses, etc.. Really odd random stuff and just cram my pockets full.
I'm going tomorrow to my SQ stash at this little known junkyard, that I tell no-one about and get the CV axles and rear end. I don't need them...right now. So that'll be two extra rear ends and 2 sets of cv axles on stand-by. This guy has cars from the 40'- 00's. He doesn't crush a whole lot of cars and knows not to crush or scrap the SQ stuff, just because he knows that there's one guy around that will come a take a part off of them periodically, namely me.
Point to take with you my friends; don't throw perfectly good SQ items away just because they don't break. You will regret it when you need it, want it, and then can't find it or have to pay out the tail for it. I'm pretty good on the extra parts selection and can fix anything on this car myself now. I don't ask for diagnostic help from anybody anymore. Check me, I haven't asked a question about a how-to on a SQ in probably 6+ years. I don't need it anymore. Shelby doesn't, ekstatixx doesn't. SQC worked for me! But what one will need is the right parts to do the job and they are getting harder to find.
My next thing on the list: extra windshield.
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Like that old song "reunited and it feels so good" ( I have no clue who sang it, other than it was a girl)
Peaches and Herb for the win: Peaches and Herb:
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Lol. I thought it was fake until the cat looked around while "meow-arking".
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Whats the world coming to? Lol.
http://comedy.video.yahoo.com/?lid=24038736&vid=25710528
He's like, "Uh oh, I've been had, they know it's me"
Never seen something like that before. I favorited.
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Less than a day left on the auction. Pretty darn clean.
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I didn't make it through that ad. I quit reading it.
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I've detailed cars for a living for over 17 years. That's bad. I would charge the person atleast $250 to remove the mold. Use an industrial deodorizer then recondition the entire interior and shampoo the carpets. Some times the mold damages the surface it's on and stains it. So it has to be reconditioned to hide the stain.
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isn't the panoz a kit car built on mustang parts? I ask because if they are running mustang friendly wheels, I would think you'd have to run spacers.
oh, no Patra I definately do run 1 1/4" spacers in the rear and 1/4" spacers in the front. They bolt right up but the offset isn't perfect for a SQ.
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This isn't a question and answer forum.
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29597
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I can't find any pictures of my first car which was a restored 1978 Toyota Celica, back in 1996, pictures are somewhere around here. So here's a pic of my second car. My 1984 Chevy Z28. California Road Racing Kit, from kit car magazine. Rear qtrs were cut off and all the fiberglass goodies were added. Finished it off with Enkie 16 x 10's and 16 x 8's. I miss those wheels. One got curbed and trashed when my car rolled down my drive way and smashed into the trees across the street. Cool car. I drove the absolute piss outta that thing for about 5 years. Never had any problems out of it. Sold it for $1000 to the guy re-doing the roof on the house.
http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/10154/_84_Camero_PIC.jpg
Edit: That's what you call deep dish.
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That's some good info right there. Thanks StarquestRescue. I'll play around with some different settings. It does run hella good right now though.
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"Spark Control" is in the unit itself. Once you install the unit you need to set up it's default parameters. I'm running a 3" MAF so here's how I set mine up:
It's under "Configure Select" which is the first screen you should see when you turn the unit on. This is how I have mine configured:
Configure Select
MAF Input: 3" MAF LT1
MAF Output: DSM 1G
RPM/Engine: 4 cyl.
Displacement: 2.60
Load Source: MAF/RPM
Wideband O2: It recognizes a bunch like the AEM UEGO, etc.
Aux Log Mode: I set mine to "NONE".
V1 Out: Spark Control
V2 Out: Volt MAF
So as you can see, it is in the set-up page for the unit itself
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Are you running the MAF-T II or the MAF-T? You really need to run that RPM wire if it is the 2nd gen. I run the 2nd gen.. I know a lot of guys run the tach wire to the ign. coil neg. wire. So then they get a signal 4 times what the rpm really is.
Just run the wire through the speedo cable grommet (if the unit's inside the car) to the white wire on the distributor harness. If not, the spark advance will by default hold the spark advance at 15 degrees all the way through the rpm band. Also, if you look, alot of the tuning characteristics are controlled via rpm and load. You can also set a minimum load and minimum voltage at which the 2nd gen MAF-T does it's thing.
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First and foremost, I apologize to you guys for my attitude. StarquestRescue, I am sorry to blast you like that, that was uncalled for. I typed that up at about 2:30 this morning. I was ragged and burned out. It took almost an hour to upload the vid. I was pissed. I don't know what it does and how it works at this point. It's called "Spark Control" inside the unit. I did check the timing with a light. I didn't change. You're right, I'm wrong. What in the heck is it doing then? Because it does run so much better when I set the spark advance as compared to leaving at default, 15 deg. through out.
This is the only thing I can figure. It ties into the distributor, which ties into the knock box, which ties into the coil, which sends the spark to the plugs. Something's going on and it's making the car run alot better while engaged. FullThrottleSpeed's website has been down for a few days now. I'm looking forward to giving them a call.
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I belive you are confusing the maf frequency correction with a ignition timing adjustment. There is no way this unit can adjust the ignition timing on these cars. No biggie, timing control is probably overrated at stock injector size power levels.
Why is it so hard to believe that it adjusts timing? It has pages and pages of various parameters that you can adjust and monitor. One of which is MAF frequency or voltage. Why would they put timing advance as a feature in the unit if it's not actually a bonified timing advance? How can it adjust timing by messing with the MAF which is basically messing with the fuel ratio? How am I changing the RPM's on the car by leaning it out or adding fuel, that makes no sense. Because you can set both in it separately and each has a different effect on the car. Is FullThrottleSpeed lying? I don't think so. Have you ever actually used a 2nd Gen MAF-T before or are you going off of a bunch of theories and convos from guys that don't even own the darn thing? I've read through a lot discussions there are about the unit, and alot of the guys don't what the he!! they're talking about. Remember this is not the same as the 1st Gen MAF-T. That adjusts the MAF voltage, really nothing else.
But consider this, if I want to add fuel to raise the RPM's at idle which, by in your opinion is done by adjusting the MAF settings, then what happens when I set the timing and decide to set the fuel aka MAF voltage in two different directions. Is the unit gonna get confused as to raise the RPM's or lower them because I'm asking it to either add fuel or take out fuel? What will the unit do, add fuel, or take out fuel? The fuel is staying the same, the timing is changing which is in-turn changing the RPM's.
How will messing with the MAF settings change my ignition timing?
Answer: It doesn't. The timing is 1 parameter, the MAF is a separate operating parameter.
Does you're management system adjust timing? I doubt it. Is that why your standing in disbelief? Why is it so hard to believe that mine does. Yes, it does, yes, it does, oh and yes it does. Let's move on.
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I just changed the oil today. My filter did the same thing. It got tight, then loosened up and then finally tight to the motor. So I guess just chock it up as a learning experience.
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I guess I'm gonna have to shoot a vid to prove this.
Here it is. Enjoy:
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Spark Adv @ WOT (trig)
The Spark advance programmed into this page will be used instead of the
WOT Spark if the Window Switch is activated. (DSMChips equipped cars
with this feature activated, and Buick GN's running the Extender Pro chipsonly)
You're talking about a completely different aspect of the unit. It has two settings. Default and window switch (trig). If you choose to use the window switch in the unit, which is only used for high load situations then you have to set an additional timing table and fuel table for that window switch. It is not activated unless you choose to.
Just because the timing changes in the display of the unit doesn't mean it is actually changes, you should verify this by checking with a timing light FIRST.It works. When I adjust the timing, as I'm at idle for example, from 15 deg. to 15.5 deg. to 16 deg. the RPM's change with each setting. Hence, it's adjusting the timing on each RPM range setting. It also gradually adjusts it depending on how close you are to the next RPM range setting. You do NOT need a chip. Remember, this car is not an Eclipse. It does not have a CAS or coil packs.
It can be set at 500 rpm increments from 2000 RPM to 8000 RPM. It doesn't start at 2000 RPM's and then jump up again at 2500 RPM's, etc. It glides right into your setting as it reaches the set point. You see, the unit has many different parameters. I haven't even scratched the surface of what all the 2nd Gen MAF-T monitors and adjusts. For one, is LOAD. When it senses a load (which you can set the load point or leave it alone so it always adjusts) by either, MAF/RPM, TPS, or MAP, it activates some of the settings. The best thing to do is download the manual and read through it. I need to download and print out another one as mine is pretty ragged.
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It holds the (ignition) timing to what you set it to through the RPM band. Now, how it does it is beyond me at this point. I'm still playing in the minor's here too. You'd have to call a tech and ask about the inner workings of the translator. But it definately does adjust it, as I can watch it on the sensor monitor screen as I accelerate through the RPM band. That's why I like the 2nd Gen so much as I don't have to hook up a laptop every time I want to adjust something. That's just plain annoying IMO.
In conjuction with a wideband, IAT and BARO it does most of the work for you on-the-fly. You set the parameters, and it does the rest. But it also makes critical adjustments on-the-fly like AFR. That's the ticket with this unit. Think about it, you set the AFR to your desired range, and it keeps it there plus or minus 5%. There is a reason why this unit has grown in popularity. Answer: it's powerful, user friendly, and cheaper than your average stand-a-lone.
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To respond and answer the questions, to be able to download the patch you need to have it plugged in, and powered up. So you need to have a laptop handy; I don't. In addition, if you're your talking about running it to the ignition coil negative, which is the only place to add the tach/speed wire at the ECU, TurboBob stated that it's not a good idea to run it there because of the high voltages seen in that wire. He states you will probably need to run a tach adapter in that case. So really, it took me all of ten minutes to run a dedicated wire from the distributor which gave me a clean correct RPM signal at a safe voltage. The RPM's are dead on and I don't need to worry about messing the unit up.
Also to Scotty, yes running the RPM signal allows for the unit's computerized timing advance which you set in the unit to what you want. With out it hooked up it will hold the timing advance to 15 deg. btdc through-out the rpm band. So running a different cam isn't a bad idea. I run the old TEP 274 cam. Also the greatest part about running the RPM wire along with a wideband, and setting you're desired AFR, is it will adjust it plus or minus 5% through-out the rpm band! You can monitor 2 of the settings at a time on the sensor monitor screen. So you can watch your timing and AFR for example. No laptop needed here for tuning. That's the main reason I grabbed up the 2nd Gen compared to the 1st Gen unit.
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With the baro wire hooked up, the 2nd Gen MAF-T holds the value constant. It basically simulates a set value. So the only way to give the 2nd Gen MAF-T an active signal is to install an external 3-bar MAP sensor. Something like this: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/map-gm-bar-map-sensor-p-161.html
On Ebay for WAY cheaper and with pigtail: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180343125862&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
I'm waiting for FullThrottleSpeed.com website to come back up as I am wondering if they offer an adapter harness for any other MAS rather than the standard 3 wire MAS that is used.
Here's some good info about the same thing. "TurboBob" who is the MAF-T guru chimes in later down the page: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:KmpqkikykgUJ:www.ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/254034-iat-problem-ls6-maf.html+3%22+GM+MAS+BARO+SENSOR+BUILT+IN&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-a&source=www.google.com
Poor Starquest
in Just plain ol' B.S.
Posted