This car is good for parting out. It might be possible to get it running well again but it would take a lot of work. I'd like to get $1,000. All the relevant information is available at http://www.blissland.net/offer/ and transcribed here. 1987 Gold Mitsubishi Starion LE flatbody for sale Fair Warning / Disclaimer : This is highly modified with automatic transmission. Below are listed the problems (according to me) as well as the modifications (according to the previous owner). Evidently he had too many aftermarket parts and not enough sense to put them together, and evidently I didn't have enough sense to realize that, and once I did realize it, he did not have the decency to give my money back (despite being someone I thought was one of my best friends for 24 years). I will not be able to give your money back either, but unlike the previous owner I am being up front about the condition of this vehicle. I would prefer to keep it but cannot manage to diagnose and fix the multitude of serious malfunctions, as enumerated below. It could be running again if the cooling system is repaired, but restoration would require a lot of parts and a fully equipped shop. If it's parted out it can fetch maybe $3,000 or maybe more. The suspension is good (apart from rear shocks and bump stops as far as I can tell). The turbocharger and BOV are good as far as I can tell. A lot of parts are fairly new and probably in good condition including most of the brake components and fuel system components. They just don't work the way they've been put together, possibly because of faulty vacuum. And it's impossible to focus on that while everything else is breaking down. Power assist to the steering has been eliminated. Air conditioning, the ridiculous emissions controls, and the very dangerous ABS have been eliminated. Although I'm pretty sure the p.s. gear box is still mounted. Included with the car is a newly refurbished power brake booster (yet to be installed) plus a few other spare parts, and an original Owner's Manual. I've been using 93 octane pump gasoline (since there is every reason to and no reason not to) and Lucas F.I. cleaner. The engine has been taking Royal Purple 10w-30 oil but I guess any sythetic is ok. My preferred filter has been K&N HP-1005. Last oil and filter change was November 2013. The OEM specified torque for the lug nuts is highly conservative and quite possibly too low considering the age of the wheels. They can easily withstand 100 ft. lbs. without distortion. Lug nut key should be in the interior center console. Photos will be forthcoming in the event that anyone needs to see them. Suffice to say though that the car is an eyesore. I am in Kingston, New York. MODIFICATIONS: The driver seat has been moved back to provide more leg room and welded in an upright position. (April 2013) "Stainless" exhaust is a misnomer. It may be steel but it's hardly stainless. Note: This character: ’ appears frequently. I don't know what it's supposed to be. Everything below was copied and pasted from what the previous owner sent to me. Engine, etc.: Shaved/lightened block inside and out, never bored, deletedbalance shafts Balanced rods with ARP rod bolts New stock Perfect Circle pistons with Hastings Chrome rings,King main and rod bearings Lightened one-piece ’83 crank pulley, entire rotating assembly balanced Clearwater NJV head,ported, 1mm O/S SS valves, 3-angle valvejob, intake rockers lightened, ARP studs for intake and exhaust, ARP headstuds, shaved and powdercoated valvecover, Schneider 274 cam, powdercoated timing cover, EGR passages welded 14G turbo, ported and Swain-Tec coated turbo housing ,stress relieved, shaved, ported and Swain-Tec coated exhaust manifold Braided oil and water turbo lines Braided oil cooler lines 2.5 Stainless MK1 turbo back exhaust, Dynamax Ultraflow ‘6in. round SS muffler Custom hardpipes all the way from turbo to TB, siliconecouplers and T-clamps, HKS racing BOV 52mm TB, ported injector housing. Ported and powdercoated intake manifold, EGRpassages deleted/welded FIP TB-Pro2R standalone fuel management (sensors, harness,injectors, fuel rail) Walbro fuel pump, braided fuel lines from firewall up,Russell fuel filter Mallory 6A ignition box, MSD tach adapter, Magnacor wires Optima battery, 2 gauge ground cables, 110 amp alternatorwith circuit breaker and 2 gauge charge cable, fuse box instead of fusiblelinks Aluminum BeCool radiator, flexfan, aux. rad. Fan, silicone heater hoses HD rebuild on auto tranny, custom valve body, Level 103200Rpm stall converter, bigger cooler with braided lines Over $300 in SS metric bolts in engine compartment andthroughout car Suspension: 4-to-5 lug conversion, bigger Cross-drilled and slottedrotors, painted calipers F/R with Speed bleeders installed, SS brake lines F/R ’88 rear end and 6-boltaxles. 7in rims front, 8in rear. 205/50Falken tires front 225/45 rear KYB struts F/R S/T springs and swaybars F/R Cusco camber plates front, Anti-M power camber plates rear. S&M triangulated strut bars F/R All polyurethane bushings in front suspension. Manual steering conversion, welded coupler. Interior: Freshly upholstered front “88 seats, Corbeau driver harness,non-auto seatbelt driver trim. Custom dash lens with insert and side blockoffs, Bride 320mmsteering wheel Autometer fuel press. and boost gauge, Halmeter af30 A/F ratio meter ’88 black HVAC controls, cupholders in door panels, customrubber diamond plate floor mats, racing pedal covers, fire extinguisher intrunk , Pioneer speakers Body: Supra style hatch wing, deleted auto antenna/roof mountedHirschmann amplified antenna, LED bulbs throughout the car, Silverstarheadlights, clear foglights Custom hood vents and custom hood lifts Cut and re-welded front bumper support, custom bumper andfront spoiler for larger intercooler opening Problems requiring attention (7/30/13 except where indicated): 1. (2/26/14) A heater hose or more likely the heater core exploded and spilled coolant all over the cabin floor. That has to be diagnosed and repaired before you even attempt to start the engine. It would require a full day of work opening up the interior front panel. The instrument cluster and wiring harness might have been damaged, as well as the FCU. So you'll probably want to tow it away. 2. Engine stalls frequently without throttle input especially when cold. ISC is absent because it is incompatible with the aftermarket fuel system. Turbo lag and especially slow throttle response are pronounced. The throttle cable is frayed and probably stretched out. The throttle body might need replacement. The fuel map needs judicious tuning. It requires the MegaSquirt software or something compatible. A serial cable or serial-USB adapter is required to connect your portable computer to the ECU (located under the glove box). You must know what you're doing or the car can easily be rendered non-functional. 3. The brakes have several issues yet to be diagnosed. Response is not smooth/linear making proper driving technique impossible. The rear do nothing when the pedal is depressed although the hand brake moves one of the caliper pistons. Power assist comes on suddenly but if you press the pedal to the floor the wheels spin freely. Rather dangerous. No vacuum is being reserved. The master cylinder and front discs and pads and vacuum valve were recently replaced but had no effect. 4. Passenger side frame rail has a 16" rotten section. 7. Rust holes in skirting panels on either side. Right side front end (body only) is badly banged up from a collision while parked. Also the entire body needs finishing. 8. Rear bumper is skewed and appears rotten underneath. 9. Steering wheel squeaks and has about an inch or more of play. Not sure how that translates to degrees ... maybe 10 or more. ISSUES OF WHICH I AM AWARE (2/20/14) Throttle cable needs replacement a.s.a.p. Shifter linkage needs repair Parking brake cable needs replacement Oil pressure gauge needs repair No heat going to heater Coolant temperature rises too high before stabilising Spark plugs no doubt are fouled (I cannot guarantee anti-seize was applied to the threads either) Fuel system needs tuning badly Fuel pressure is erratic (Fuel pressure regulator was replaced but it didn't fix anything) Distributor vacuum advance module possibly needs replacement Tends to stall since there is no ISC to compensate for other issues (I'm keeping the idle high until this is addressed although it could go higher still) Apparently no hydraulic pressure to rear brake lines Front brakes function erratically (possibly a vacuum issue and possibly related to the ABS bypass) Exhaust system needs extensive repair or replacement (bent and twisted and the downpipe is making contact with the engine block and the muffler is skewed to the right side) Passenger side frame rail needs repair Ignition wires possibly need replacement (can't say for sure if intermittent misfiring is due to electrical or fuel delivery) Filters need replacement Fuel pump possibly needs replacement Piston rings possibly need replacement (evidently some blow-by) Valve seals possibly need replacement (can only get worse over time) Balance shaft cover gasket definitely needs replacement (leaking fluids) Cylinder head gasket possibly needs replacement Timing chain cover gasket possibly needs replacement Transmission is not connected properly (torque converter bangs around ... may be impossible to fix without re-mounting the motor) Rear shock absorbers and bump stops need replacement Rear tires need replacement soon (all-season 225/45-16 are no longer available) Entire body needs everything
