TSIBoy
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Posts posted by TSIBoy
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Well, Made some progress this weekend, the radiator is in, and for the intercooler I am going to use a modified stock intercooler. I'd like to have a larger one but there just isn't enough room. In the first pic where the cardboard is, that's a mock up "intercooler" with the factory intercooler dimensions.
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Well, I came upon a rare occasion, a friend of mine gave me a rollling chassis of a 1971 Datsun 110. Â Not very many of them out there, and this one was already set up for road race.
Well, as of right now I am in the process of putting the built g54 from my quest into the car. Â I know doing motor swaps on conquests is considered a sin on this board, but is tearing appart your quest and making a beast of your car considered one?
Total running weight for the car is 1600lbs with me in it, ought to be interesting with 315whp or so
mods:
weisco pistons, shot peened rods, 19c turbo, tep 284 cam, HD valve springs, ported intake manifold, and soon to be 2nd gen magna head(getting one from a buddy in south africa)
Very soon I will be running a budget fuel system with two 1600cc injectors, and a mega squirt with a ford 70mm throttle body on a modified stock intake manifold. Â Its a light car so I am not worried about getting the most HP out of it (MPI)
;D
http://www.unltdmotosports.com/member/drew/1.jpg
http://www.unltdmotosports.com/member/drew/2.jpg
http://www.unltdmotosports.com/member/drew/3.jpg
http://www.unltdmotosports.com/member/drew/4.jpg
http://www.unltdmotosports.com/member/drew/5.jpg
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Ok, I have a question for all the megasquirt guys.
I am building a 350 rwhp daily driver/occasional autocross car and am trying to build the car on a budget of $5500. In order to meet this budget my only real options are a Megasquirt stand alone or a used Haltech F9. Basically I need to know if the Megasquirt is fast enough (computation wise) to handle this kind of power and is reliable enough to be in a daily driven car.
Also, if anyone can give me some advice on tuning one and just how hard they are to wire up and tune. I love the idea of a $150 stand alone, but hate the idea that I am going to have to build it, not a big deal, just want to know if its a rip off and won't work or if it will be a good set up.
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damn, now you have me extremely interested in somethin like that. ;D I may try that if you have a good experiance with that motor, sounds bad a**.
Any hopes of a 4g64 ever turnin 7,500-8,000 rpm? If so that would be a completely awsome set up for autocross/road race like my project starquest is goin for
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damn, that is nice. Makes me want those ROH's even more
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When i contacted them they told me $1400 for all 4
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Those appear to be Panasports... about $350 a wheel if I remember correctly for the 3 piece 17's
Also, many of you who like the simmon's wheels should consider CCW's, they are the same style, but about 60% the price. For $350 a wheel you can get any diamater, offset, width and boltpattern www.ccwheel.com
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Has anyone considered getting one of the new Forced Performane FP 30 turbos? It appears as though it would bolt right on. (might have to take a drill to the exhaust housing and get rid of the threads used on an eclipse to bolt it on).
Pruven Performance put one of these turbos on their car in SCC mag's ultimate street car challenge, I think it pulled about 565 whp at 30 psi. Yes, 30 psi is WAY too much for street, but should be a 400 whp bolt on turbo for pump gas easily.
It uses a completely new casting done by FP so that it has 8cm bolt pattern but uses a Garrett GT30 compressor section and center section.
It also has a flange welded on for an external wastegate.
Price tag is at $1450 Â
which is a bit high, but I personally don't think so for such a large BOLT ON turbohttp://www.forcedperformance.net/dsm_turbo_fp30.htm
http://www.forcedperformance.net/images/products/fp30/fp3065_3055.jpg
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can't see canards as something that would look good on a StarQuest, never know untill you try it. You should try making your own since no one seems to make one that looks like it would fit our cars right. A good source of carbon fiber sheet is www.lockhartphillipsusa.com I bought some from them a while back (1'x1' sheet) for $75. I've made many gauge pods for friends out of that sheet and still have room for more, just take your time with the stuff and it will come out looking awsome.
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www.teamprototype.com
They have splitters and stabilizer kits for sale, some of the stuff looks really cool and I am sure could be functional if done right.
Also, has anyone considered canards (the lil horizontal stabilizer lookin things on the front of "race" cars in the middle of the bumper)
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Ok... here are my thoughts on a cheap way to get more fuel into the motor cheaply... I don't know if anyone else has tried this.
I was sitting there thinking about running two secondary injectors in my 88 with the 255lph HP pump, bigger fuel lines, and two fuel pressure regulators, one to set the baseline low enough that you don't run stupid rich at idle and off boost operation, and a boost controlled rising rate regulator to richen it up while in boost, its almost like running an AIC but without the mega buck system from TEP.
I'd like as much thought on this as possible considering its a different way to get more fuel in for a bigger turbo, for those of us who don't want to spend wads of cash on an AIC and can't afford MPI currently.
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nope, just want a daily driven 350 whp MPI conquest
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Ok, I am seriously considering buying an SDS in the near future. My main issue is, will the 4d system (doesn't controll spark) work in our cars?
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TS04 has much better flow without any more lag, also looks like a better flow chart. Â you'll also have a longer lasting tubo with the TS04, won't have to run it as hard to make the HP level you want.
Looks like the T04E 57 and 60 trims both have hellacious compressor surge and don't flow the kind of air that a turbo with that surge level should.
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T04S ( T-58 ) .54 A/R divided housing, don't pay for ball bearing, that won't help the turbo spool in anything except a roll race (like... on the highway). Â An equal length tubular header would make a difference in helping build boost, but the main thing is... get the smallest exhaust housing you can (the .54 a/r) and put a large wastegate on it to keep boost creep down....
When I was going to for maximum streetable HP I was going to use that turbo..... but I got to ride in my friends autocross prepped supra and now all I want to do is turn.
I had two of those on my 99 Dakota R/T........ damn... that thing pulled like hell (10 psi), sold it to some 18 year old punk and he totaled it the next day... ohh well, I am done mind wandering now... what I am getting to is, I can get that turbo for about $900, if you would like to know who to contact to get that price (retail is aobut $1500) just reply with your e-mail address and I will tell you where to go.
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Anyone ever think to try annodizing? I've delt with a lot of annodized aluminum, you can probably get an intercooler done in any color for $300 and it should not effect efficiency at all. Annnozidizing is basically dying the metal by corroding a color into the surface layer, it does create micro pitting in the material but nothing major. It is also a nice easy to keep clean surface and lasts a long time when properly maintained (as in... don't clean it with abrasives or harsh chemicals).
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Basically, I am about to be using a custom MPI manifold with a Haltech E6K and I was wondering if i could possibly get the maps from someone who has already done it so I have a good starting point for the project.
my e-mail is andrewpm1@attbi.com
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Haltech by far. I personnaly have tuned both and i can say that haltech is much more user friendly to tune and get right. It may not seem like it becuase its not full of nice pretty colors like the AEM is, but, me and my race sponsor fried two AEM ecu's because their software is bad ??? , the car was down for 3 weeks while they sent us new ecu's
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ALS is going to mess that turbo up on your car after about 5 or 6 uses.... but here is my question.... how are you going to put that kind of power to the ground. 15psi at idle is great, but you rarely get traction
g54 swaped
in Engine and Performance Mods
Posted
I am keeping the solid rear axle, and going with a custom ladder bar style suspension and coil overs from a civic (its going to have full custom tubular front suspension also). We were able to fit a 265 series tire in there for mock up without the axle being in there and without the leaf springs and rear shocks, so when I go coil over I am going to cut pockets into the body and built strut towers so that no part of the suspension protrudes into the fender well. ;D
I'd say I have it pretty well figured out. And I have a BRE style 510 air dam on the way for mods to fit it on there. Basically its going to be a mini single headlighted 510.