Professor

The 9" start at the first step on the rim so they would probably fit the front OK. They could hit something under the fender though. It is nice to be able to rotate tires.

I wasn't sure where to put this . I missed the GP in June so I had to look for a pump. I found these pumps for $115 + $8 shipping. He didn't have the install kit recommended for this so I just got the pump.This is a better price than the GP. Anyway, I just wanted to let everybody know in case they need a pump. http://www.importevolution.com

I don't think a spacer will do it. The rear 8" are dished which would put the tire out further. The front 7" and the front 8" are straight up. The spokes are at the first step of the rim and are straight up and down. The spokes on the rear 8"s are at the second step of the rim. I am going by the pictures on Starquest Wheels website. You could probably use the front 8"s on the rear, like Charlie said by using a spacer. Before I would do that, I would just get 9"s for the back. I was just trying to get wider wheels using the wheels that I have.

Thanks Derek! They did change the offset. That's about 1.1 inches the wheel would be out. I suspose the tire would rub the fender or look weird being out 1.1 inches.

Are the 8"wheels that come on the TSI 7"/8" combo the same as the 8" that come w/shp 8"/9" combo? i have two sets of 7"/8" and I would like to run 8" on all 4 corners. Knowing Mitsu, they probably changed the offset for 8" on the front.

The rear shelf is made of pressed board with carpet on it. Mine broke in the middle and sagged down. I thought about taking the carpet off and fiberglassing the break. That would be a real pain. The rubber molding on the back edge is hollow inside. I put a 1/4" rod into the hollow molding and the shelf is straight again. If you are trying to get rid of weight, this is not the way to do it. But then if you are trying to get rid of weight, you would remove the shelf anyway.

The ECU is located on the passenger side in back of the kick panel. It isn't as low as the floor. The water on my 85.5 was just on the floor and didn't get on the ECU at all. I suppose if one continued to use the air conditioner for many days it could fill up the floor area and get on the computer. I think before that happened the driver would notice the sloshing water and do something about it. The ECU can be replaced fairly easily but they usually sell for 80 to 100 bucks.

It's fixed. The hose was plugged. When I disconnected the hose from the A/C, a lot of water came out. That's a dumb place to put the drain hose. If a passenger puts their foot on that spot, it would cut off the water flow. This hose had something in the end blocking the drain. I did as Band Y said and made sure nothing was blocking the water in the drain hole connection. I think what mstieg suggested would have worked but I didn't get that post until after the fact. The next time I will try it. This should be in the FAQ's if it's that common. Thanks for the help!

I checked the cooling system and it is still full. I was hoping it wasn't the heater core. When I sponged the liquid up, it didn't feel or smell like anti-freeze. I think I lucked out!

Allright! Thanks Jimmy. I was going to pull the carpet up tonight to dry it so i'll get to the hose at the same time. Thanks again!

I have an 85.5 Starion. I washed the car and went on a 275 mile trip and used the A/C. The next day I noticed I had about 1/2 gallon of water on the passenger side floor. I think it is coming from the A/C. I can't find the drain tube for the A/C. I looked under the car for the tube but I couldn't find it. I removed the glove box and the lower panel and still nothing. As a last resort, I even looked in the manual but could find nothing. Maybe the water didn't come from the A/C. When I removed the panel under the glove box. there was puddles of water on it. Is there a vent or something else that may leak from the cowl area? It must be coming from the A/C drain but where is it?

Try going to this site. They tell you what parts to get and give you drawings for hooking it up. minimopar.knizefamily.net/perf Professor

When I modified the stabilizer brackets at the bottom, I made the rubber pads from a stock Chevy truck cross flow radiator fit. You can see the rubber mount in the picture showing the bottom of the radiator. They are grooved to fit on the end tank seam and the radiator just sits on them. Then I just used one in the middle on the top. I have a 16" flex fan with no shroud and so far the engine has never got over 180. They say a cross flow radiator will out cool a vertical flow radiator and the aluminum radiator is 40% lighter weight. They also say that a two row aluminum radiator will out cool a 5 row copper/brass radiator. I don't know if this is true but my engine stays cool! Professor

I got the ICS and the TPS at the wrecking yard and they were $2.50 each. I don't know what engine was in the Sonata. I just looked at the TPS and the ISC and they looked identical to the Starquest, so I picked them up. Professor

When I got the TPS from the Hyundai I noticed the ISC unit and got that too. The ISC is exactly the same as Starquest. Even the same connectors. The wires have to be changed to correspond to the pin configuration of Starquest. I have had it on my car for 500 miles and it works perfect. The TPS and the ISC are on 89 to 91 Hyundai Sonata. Professor

I have to get my wifes pictures off the camera so I can use it. I'll try to do it tonite or tomorrow. The radiator is 19" tall and from the stabilizer bar bracket to the hood inner panel is less than 19". Remember my car is an 85.5. Maybe the later models are a little taller. Professor

I looked at putting in an inline water neck and cap but I didn't like two things about it. 1. The top water hose is about 2.5 inches below the top of the tank. 2. The water neck and cap in the hose is lower than the top of the radiator. This creates the problem of filling the radiator. I didn't want to jack up the car to get the water to flow, to fill the radiator. This was a problem I had with a Covair I built with a Mid engine 455 Olds. I had to jack up the front of the car to get the water to flow to the engine. The inline water neck is an option that would have been easier but I was concerned about filling the radiator. Plus, the inline water neck is $32 from JEG's and most would have to pay to get the stock neck cut off and welded up. Now the inexpensive radiator is not so. I did find a place in Michigan that would make drawings from your specs. and send them to you for your approval and then make you a custom radiator for $378. That's not bad! I think their turn arround time was like two days.

It is 2 rows of 1" tubes. It has a machined neck anodized blue for the cap. The radiator looks like it's twice as thick as the stock radiator. It is probably 1" thicker, I'm just guessing because I didn't measure it. If I still lived in Phoenix, I would definitely need one of these. Remember, to install one of these, you need to cut and weld the stabilizer brackets. Professor

My car has always run hot. I had the radiator rodded out last fall. I switched to the flex fan and shroud, but it was always on the edge. I finally had to fix it. I got a Summit Chevy style radiator that measures 25 3/4 X 19. They didn't have anything less than 19" unless you want to pay $378. This one was $178 with handling charge. Everything fit real nice except it was 1" too tall. The radiator cap hit the hood. The only logical way to fix it was to modify the stabilizer bar brackets. This allowed the radiator to sit 1" lower and clear the hood. I had to cut off about 1.5" off the lower hose connection and use a 90 degree hose connection to connect the water pump. I have a 180 stat in it and the temp gauge comes up to 180 and that is it. I have an Autometer temp gauge so I know exactly what the temp is. I wish I would have done this months ago.

The box says "Evolution Ceramic Disc Brake Pads". Made by Competion Friction and Universal Brake Parts. I buy a lot of parts from Cost Less Auto Parts in Vancouver, Washington which is where I got these. They come with the shims attached to the pads too. They were $29. With tax $32 Professor

I just put ceramic pads on the front of my 85.5 Starion last week. They stop twice as good as the old pads I took off. Plus, my wheels are still clean. They were only $29 + Tax. I don't remember who makes them But I still have the box out in the shop. I'll take a look and post if anybody is interested. Professor