C300
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Posts posted by C300
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reading this thread all the way through, every word, brings me to ask here instead of a new post... The wide Block. This post is mainly about the SHORT block(meaning minus the head). I have everything to build a g54( 3 short blocks, marnel head, TimC monster cam, MPI intake ect). SO, should i sell that stuff and build a 4g64 and stick a 4 valve head on it ? seems it could be cheaper (same build money) and get more streetable HP and better manners. also wondering if/why OP went with a g54, not the g64 with all the money/time spent ? I'm enjoying the different takes on the same builds. and some good info too. Went with the longer rods(Scat 7.1")on my 440 based 512 stroker just for the reasons pointed out in the article DAD posted(great read). I Won't work as hard on the street with lots of miles ;-) , C300
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P/N Summit quoted me. This is what i'm talking about. says it opens at 85-80C. but 3 part #'s are mixed together. and say 100-95C. by the way, these are listed as NO LONGER AVAILABLE from this particular Factory, C300
http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/UT8gs5FXj4bXXagOFbXU/206036469/UT8gs5FXj4bXXagOFbXU.jpg
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Tech From Summit Racing said they can order the sensors from some company. they don't do OEM stuff, so they aren't in the catalog. $45 each. he doesn't have the spec's on them, just left N right sensors. so there's no telling what the ON-Temp. is I have 10 sitting here that open too late. and at $50 each it's pissing me off ! Thanks for the info !, C300.www.starquestgarage.com
Cooling Section 7
MB007639 passenger side
MB435745 Driver side
i got mine from Summitracing.com
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Has anyone used this Product ? Tech From Summit Racing recommended it.
Derale Cooling Products 16749 - Derale Performance Deluxe Adjustable Controllers with Pipe Threaded Probes
Has Sending Unit Thread Size:
3/8-18 NPT I'm sure that's a bung change on the Radiator. Seeing the post for the $120 E-bay Aluminum Radiator I'm thinking of ordering Both. 2 Adj. sensors. one for each fan. and a Rad. at that price, why not. Are there 2 3/8-18 bungs on that Rad. ? Tired of the sensor issue. had 4 go bad under 2 year warranty on a "87 back in the day. Still having same problem. run hot, crack head. all for a crap sensor, Can't/won't drive car until i fix this issue, C300
Can' UN-Bold the type !!!
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Thanks for the info. I have the MM for the 86 and 88 downloaded. no Parts Manuals, so no P/N's. Should start calling this the "Classic starquestclub" since they aren't listing then anymore. will Download the IPC's. here's some info i found. looked Russian before i converted it. The low temp. passenger side one listed says it's for the 1983-1984 cars. Comes on at 185 degree Fahrenheit. Good info, lowest on temp stock. I have only ordered '85 ad up, being the models i've owned, Thanks again, C300
No PNC # OEM part number Count on
one machine Title Specification Note Color Production period Condition
Classification Under the order In stock
1 10322 MB007639 01 SENSOR, RADIATOR WATER TEMPERATURE ON-85 1983.08.1 - 1984.09.3 ALL
<
2 10322 MB356842 01 SENSOR, RADIATOR WATER TEMPERATURE ON-90 1986.01.1 - 1986.09.3
SRHWG <TOURING EXCEED, 4FA / T
3 10322 MB435745 01 SENSOR, RADIATOR WATER TEMPERATURE ON-100 1986.01.1 - 1986.09.3
SRHWG <TOURING EXCEED, 4FA / T
4 10322 MB356842 01 SENSOR, RADIATOR WATER TEMPERATURE ON-90 1986.10.1 - 1987.09.3 ALL
<
5 10322 MB435745 01 SENSOR, RADIATOR WATER TEMPERATURE ON-100 1986.10.1 - 1987.09.3 ALL
<
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The local Mits Dealer Doesn't have the Manuals "back that far" anymore. Need P/N to order it. Was a time I new it by hart. they don't last. Need the Thermosensor No 1 Part Number. Do you guys use the OEM, or is there a better one out there ?
The 4 i have are opening between 196 and 206. so temp is about 195-210 until moving. No. 2 is stock original, and kicks on about the same time as the aftermarket No 1. thanks, C300
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Thanks TexasQuest, then i'm guess'in I'll need a bigger one on top too, or there won't be enuff fluid to make full travel. damm, I'm into a full on project now !
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86' ESIR. Have a 3/4" (.750") Clutch slave cylinder. Did the 5/8" come on 87'-89's ? Mine is pitted and i can't find my small hone. Question is, should i get the 3/4" like the original, or should i upgrade to the bigger one ? will be putting on a Fadanza F/Wheel and upgraded clutch/press. plate down the road with the engine i'm building, Thanks, C300
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Cool, I called dad and he said the same. I'm ordering one now and sticking this one on the high side. many thanks, C300
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check out the pic in my gallery. F3 clear Fram at walmart or autozone. remove cone filter. the one in the pic is discolored from rust in it. works great and see through !
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when i got my '87, they replaced this sensor 'bout 20 times under warranty. the two cracked heads also. never had one last more than 10 months on a daily driver. hope it's not the only game in town ! No warranty... thanks C300
Wish i had the money i spent on all the sensors i replaced
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Got 4 different ones. napa, carquest. 2 from autozone, lifetime warranty. spec says opens between 184-196f. this opens at 192f and194F. almost same as stock high sensor.
car now runs at 3/4 gauge hot before starting fan. before at 1/3 of gauge. never above 1/2. cracked the head when i got it that hot in traffic.
the new high temp ones open at 203-toast.
The car has NO wiring issues or bad grounds, just a sensor that opens at too high a temp. (in water on stove)
called the manufacturers. they no makey. said they make one sensor that fits all applications. and new cars run hotter.
same sensor for 55-83 corvettes. same problem tech guy said.
Who has the correct temp sensor ?
what do you all use ?
if i have to, i'll cut the connector off a car at the boneyard and splice it to fit another style.
thanks C300
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'87 and up widebodys had auto seatbelts. '86 widebodys had the seatbelts in the door. I thought that the widebody was an option(limited edition) in '86 and only widebodys were avalible '87 and on, I could be wrong, but i have never heard of a flat fendered starion after '86.
i have no clue why this is all underlined at all !
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Well, dialectic grease is so the boot doesn't stick/melt to the ceramic plug. keeps moisture/condensation out too. i used it religiously till i moved to Az. the guy at the speed shop asked where i was from... bakes the boot on in extreem heat. that said, i use it again in Wa. saved lots of packets of it in the toolbox.
I got the Taylor street thunder 52030 $28 shipped. going MPI with Ford crank trigger ign. soon. then this whole eng. setup will be a spare again.
Thanks for the info, C300
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ok, I have a ten year old set of 8mm B&G's, crispy. they still go on and off fine. the NASCAR edition wires are the ones THEY discontinued because of this problem. i guess since i'm not in Az. anymore so the cheepos would be fine. they do not last long in hot tail weather. 100% silicon is needed, but the rodents eat them there.
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Thanks Scotty Dont. guess I'll buy them From Summit.
psu_crash, the metal clip on the Borg-warners are hard too pull off with spark plug in hand, and vice grips on the clip. insanely hard to pull off. i pulled off the first one and it broke. the set i had was from a V6. so i got the Aviation Pros wire pullers out of my toolbox. i pulled and when it let go i cut my nuckle on the turbo heat sheild. they all ended up braking :-). NFG !
oh, the guy at Shucks told me that different plugs, Domestic N Imports, have different size ends. I miked the 67 baracuda plugs and the NGK's, they were the same. anyone ever heard this before ?
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Thanks. you got a box/set number ? the ones on the shelf are all HEI. the girl was clue less and the guy said something about 32 years at the parts counter. so i said get a dist. cap for the 2.6, get me a set that fits and has strait plug boots. i think he drooled on his self. said he doesn't know what sets come with what. 32 years? i reserved comment.
Need a number for the computor !
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OK, i went through the forums. i use to get borg-warners for an 87 nissan V6 like recomended years ago by someone on this sight. it was perfect. last set the metal pulled out, staying on the plug. non repairable, molded on plug. complete crap. so i warrantied them and the new ones(new vendor for borg-warner) 4 are 4 inches too short. so unless i run the wires over the valve cover, they're not useable. i returned them. all the Taylor, MSD and Accells that are custom cut, crimp your self on the shelf at local stores are HEI and angled plug boots.
I need a number to order.
What wires and were to buy.
yes, i can get 7mm NGK wires.
Was running much better, and lasted better with 8mm B&G's.
way lowwer ohms.
Hope i can get an answer so i can order them on the way home from work tomarrow, thanks, C300
Oh, and i did see many saying that they couldn't believe it was hard to get wires. i saw no 8mm wires in the forum. please lock an answer in the FAQ.
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I'm running 18" X 8" and 9.5". Same offset and bolt pattern as newer mustangs. was cheaper than buying used stock rims. pictures n info in my gallery. car still has stock suspention.
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My first and favorite was same color. '87 palmaro ? gray ESI-R. all trim, mud flaps n grill/rear bumper black. really turned heads when freshly cleaned ! got hit in front tire. shifted nose 'bout 6". sitting in Az. baking ! will find time for it someday... it's hanging out with a couple more for now ;-)
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My '87 came with some paperwork that said 148MPH. with minimal mods i did 168 at the salt flats. 5 mile course. flat out, removed A/C belt, removed air filter, no cardbord in mass air sensor. some other stuff. and GOOD tail gas.
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Elkidmino is correct in that the pre-pump strainer or filter acts as a damper of sorts. like he said, pressure drop, different pressures going to the pump when pulling "G's" around corners. if there is no filter or strainer, then there's a damper before the pump, like on Porcshes. filters are cheeper and double as good insurance for expensive pumps. this car sends exess gas back to the tank, helping with vapor lock on hot starts. the manual for K-tronic machanical injection states that the damper is for Both hot starts and reducing surging/pressure spikes. it's more important on a machanical set up... I like the clear fram filters. G3 is 3/8" size and fits right in our pre pump hose. can do it through the access panel in the trunk in no time. pull the hose off both ends. measure twice, cut and stick the hoses on each end. stick it back on. no problem.
i will be getting my tank cleaned sooner than later :-)
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ucw458- i wish i had your fuel tank ! seems all the cars i've had besides the new one in '88 came from cheep people who never filled the tank. and i'm never taking one apart again... i just change the filter when the pump starts whining.
i think the rust dust is prematurely wearing my injectors. but no good tanks for the taking.
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I used a fram G-3 clear filter. can get them at any parts store or walmart. i didn't shorten my hose, just cut it and stuck the filter in there. there's a picture of it in my gallery. good luck
Has anyone used this Adjustable Thermosensor ?
in Virtual Mechanic
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