avenger89

Do you have them?

Thats the one! Hey Man It's me again. That computer came in today. thanks again for the ECU. E.

Let me know if you have a accordion air inlet. also looking for the rubber turbo spacer [compressor side inside accordion] Let me know what you got and how much you want.

Well I am sure it's not the injectors, they were tested and cleaned. the accordion inlet appears to be in serviceable shape. I have not seen any cracks/tears. would A small crack or something I might have missed set the MAF code?

Well After much much testing I am running out of ideas! First off I posted A topic A bout my 88 Quest About A month ago Titled "Plug in the MAF car runs like crap" Well that's not the problem anymore One day it miraculously reverted to only running with the MAF plugged in! But all those post can help to explain some of the testing that has been covered. I have done alot more tests, And keep coming back to the maf. I have replaced the ECU and the MAF with one I got here Off the board. First I want to explain why I replaced the ECU. After using my old analog And testing for codes, it would give me the code for the MAF after start up and attempting to drive the car. And then my meeter would peg out randomly at 12 volts and not resume giving codes until Ignition was cycled off then on. And according to trusty old Alldata, If this happens "Replace ECU". Easy enough, But to no avail. Same results with my replacement ECU. Now I have tried both of the MAF's I have With the new ECU, And no change. I have tested The Both MAF's according to Alldata's procedures With include, Using a thermometer and testing the MAF at room temperature [i used A laser thermometer for this part] Install MAF in car and start and run up to operating temp and test resistance At the MAF side. It should change value at hotter temps, And both MAF's are in spec. I have "chased" all six wires from the MAF harness to the ECU and all have continuity. I have had my injectors cleaned and are in good stock working shape. using my radiator tester pump and some fabricated adapters I have tested my inter cooler and all plumbing for leaks. I have replaced a ton of vacuum lines and believe that system to be leak free And is in stock configuration. The car runs well up until introduction of boost, then all hell breaks loose. At the first sign of positive boost the car bogges down MAF code sets and It is back to the drawing board. Thanks in advance E.

I need a good WORKING ECU for my 88' quest. Shoot me a message if you have one you want to get rid of. Thanks E.

Gottch! Checking for codes will be the first order of buisness tomorrow.

I have a snap on solus pro scan tool, and I have tried to hook up but it wont communicate. maybe you could help me figure out what two ports on the data link I need to plug into with a L.E.D. to do it the old school way. thanks in advance E.

Well hello everyone again, another round of tests and not much improvement. Today I removed and inspected the ECM and all connections, checked for continuity from the MAF plug to the ECM and all six wires tested out fine....aaaarrrrggg. I pulled the TPS and did a sweep test again this time with it out of the car and that also looked good. Put it back in and got it set at .05 m ohms, and it still runs like crap. Tested to see if I had a leaky injector by removing both injector plugs and cranking the motor over, and not so much as a sputter. I guess I could have got a faulty MAF, It was used. if anyone out there has a KNOWN GOOD one that you would be willing to part with for a reasonable price let me know. But I am still baffled by the fact that it will run well with the MAF unplugged. What else could try? Thanks again E.

This guy dose

One thing I forgot to mention is that i performed a sweep test on the TPS and everything checks out there as well. Just thought I should bring that up. E.

Thanks to everyone that has offered advice so far, you all have given me alot to run with! I will try some of these tests tomorrow and keep yall up to speed with my findings! Thank you all for your help! Keeping my fingers crossed...... E.

Well when the MAF is plugged in the car idles fine but when you put it in gear and try to accelerate it instantly bogs down. if I goose the gas enough to get past this and up into i would say 2000 R.P.M. it will pop and sputter and i can hear the stock air bypass on the air can desperately trying to get rid of the boost. after hearing this, I stopped trying to drive it like this. I got out my trusty multi meter [although I had no idea what I was looking for...LOL] and started probing the female end of the MAF connector and all six terminals had voltage of one value or another, the big red one had ACC voltage and all the other ones had anywhere from .085 volts, to 1.85 volts, to 5.00volts, they all had voltage of one value or another. That struck me as odd. the plug and wiring harness [the part that is visible before going into the rest of the harness] looks un damaged. I think I just need to chase them to the ECM and check them for continuity. The ECM itself looks like it has been untouched since it left the factory, once I took the kick panel off I found all the connections to the ECM secure and attached. I even did the old starter fluid trick spraying all around the plenum/air can to look for leaks and nadda. maybe my Stingray is just jealous! I am hopefully gonna be able to chase the wires tomorrow and see what that gets me. You guys Rock... E.

O.k. let me get A little deeper into it. First off I was re-reading my original post, And I can see where I made my mistake, Sorry for the typo. first things first the car has 136000 on the clock. The car runs good with the MAF unplugged, And Like crap when plugged in. That being said lets get down to how it runs. Unplugged from the start the car starts up and purrs like a kitten, idling at about 900 R.P.M. For the most part this is normal, however once in about every fifth time starting it, it will run with A slight miss for about the first minute, but as soon as I put it in gear the miss is gone. After starting the car for the first time in the morning [after sitting all night] and getting some oil get up out of the pan [but not not letting it get up to temp] in park it will rev smoothly till about 3000 R.P.M but when held at 3000 it will miss....alot. This dose not change when i get it up to temp. but put it in drive and the acceleration curv is pretty smooth. now bear in mind the turbocharger is just the stock little 12a and is pretty weak and tired , so it is not very quick to spool and i put a wastegate actuator that is from a 86 Dodge Dynasty that only gives me 7.5 P.S.I. keeping it nice and mellow until I get the motor nice and dialed in. I have changed the spark plugs and gaped them accordingly .43, and have inspected under the dizzy cap and all is well. clean contacts on the cap/rotor, every thing moves easily as far as advance components, vacuum advance check, and the timing set at 10. btdc. and with a timing light hooked up the timing mark moves smoothly under acceleration. I have done A pulse test on the secondary injector to see if that was the source of the stumble at 3000 R.P.M. but the noid light was pulsing when it was supposed to. but when in drive there is no stumble/ hesitation at 3000. long story short the injectors need to be tested and cleaned, but I put A can of B.G. 44k and ran that whole tank through and it helped.... A little. Now plugging the MAF in the car starts up just fine idles at 900. but put it in gear and try to even touch the accelerator and it gets ugly....fast. The car bearly functions. Thanks again E.

Hey Tim, sorry if I came off the wrong way. I would never want to p.o. Any one here. I will write a full summery of what I have replaced, and the full run down of how the car runs when I get home from work tonight. Thanks again for the help. E.

Well I have looked in digital service manual that I use at the shop I work at [ Alldata ] maybe you have heard of it. pretty good for most cars, But then there are some cars that you can't find anything useful. LOL I am interested in the fact that it runs well with it unplugged. The ECM is the stocker 88'. If the primary is dumping fuel, how can the car run so well with the MAF disconnected?

Well i wanted to get the injectors cleaned and tested and plan to do this soon, But until then i would like to test the wiring from the MAF. can you point me in the right direction for testing continuity on the wires? what pins on the ECM do these wires go to? Thank you all again E.

So Here it is, My car is a 88' quest and when i plug the MAF it runs awful, runs as well in limp mode {unplugged} so we can eliminate fuel delivery. bought a used MAF and plugged it in and same thing. Does anyone know the testing procedures for testing a MAF? or what to look for at the female end of the plug? Fuel pressure is at 37 lbs, injectors pulsing, new fuel filter/pump... thanks in advance. E.