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Joel

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Posts posted by Joel

  1. Right now God is writing on Joels file

     

    "DOES NOT PLAY WELL WITH OTHERS"

     

    Luckily my money makes up for my lack of knowledge.

     

    best of luck to ya.

     

     

    Hmm... Well, at least now I know you have no idea what you are talking about?

     

    My intention was to inquire for knowledge, not get a useless reply back.  I was not trying to offend. Apparently I did. Welcome to the internet, eh?

     

    Thanks for your response.

     

    Joel

  2. It increases combustion turbulence lessening the possibility of detonation.

     

    this is why most intakes are round at the plenum and kidney shaped at the entrance of the head.

     

    Please cite examples. "Kidney shaped inlet ports" are generally used on DOHC heads where there are two valve ports siamesed into one external (larger) port. The onset of detonation would likely never be influenced based on a kidney shape alone. Thats like claiming that one set of wings works for all airplanes. You can't build the wings... or the airplane independantly. Just doesn't work that way. I would really like to know where that information came from.

     

    Alot of the imports have this design.

    I have been to the junkyards for months every weekend looking and sketching different cars intakes, exhaust gaskets. turbos, bypass valves from volvo and DSMs and probes.

     

    And then I google stuff to figure it out.

    Get familiar with how the NEW cars are and you will see some older cars that were doing it to.

    Don't listen to anyone on here with out looking into it yourself there is alot to learn looking at other cars.

     

    There are a few on here doing similar, just not posting.

    Most folks including my self hate being shot down for wacky dreams but to tell you the truth everything i think has been done already and is proven in other designs.

     

    2004 will be the year for us with all the intake designs and exhaust manifold. coil overs and camber kits.

    gotta run

    Alan

     

    notice the magna head is kidney shaped on the combustion chamber.NOT A COINCIDENCE done intentional.

     

    google me "kidney shaped combustion chamber" read up and ask yourself if the magna head is a better design.

    YUP.

     

     

    Alan From Portland

     

    The Combustion chamber is a different story. Unless you KNOW what you are doing.. or have alot of money, stay away. I am one that will be doing a 3rd gen magna. Those combustion chambers are better... but far from ideal.

     

    Joel

  3. 1. Magna shouldn't have a spot for that thermovalve. If it does, don't install thermovalve, just find a plug with the correct thread.

     

    2. Take EGR Stuff, throw in trash can. No need to plug what isn't there.

     

    3. Read above.

     

    4. No such thing as a "TPS Solinoid", but thats part of the EGR Control. Read #2.

     

    5.  SDS (or usually ANY aftermarket ECU) will not like the ISC. They have no provision for it, as its VERY non-standard. Buy a 3 or 4 wire (or whatever SDS supports) IACV solinoid or stepper valve. I prefer the soliniod, but its really up to what SDS supports.

     

    6. Not sure what that is, but don't use the stock harness anyway.

     

    If you unplug the harness side, take the stock ecu out, the harness side connectors do nothing. Just wire in SDS to the sensors you need (which should be provided in their kit). Do not use stock sensors if they give you a replacement in the kit... they have greater resolution and/or calibrated to the SDS unit.

     

    Joel

  4. Im pretty sure I COULD tune these to pass emissions. Not sure I want to. ;)

     

    If they do any sort of visual inspection, they will take one look at your wastegate and fail you on the spot. Otherwise, an easy fix would be to just throw on a stupid dummy pipe/filter on the TB, you won't be builting boost so no worries about that thing opening.

     

    Most emissions tests won't rap out the car enough to build boost anyway, they do like a 2500 rpm test and an idle test IIRC.

     

    Joel

  5. try this:

     

    Step 1: Buy Westech

     

    Step 2: Place in Ex. Manifold

     

    Step 3: Tune it on dyno

     

    Step 4: Notice EGT

     

    Step 5: Richen and lean it out and notice EGT Difference... Take note of EGT.. Place back to step 3 tune.

     

    Step 6: Mount in DP

     

    Step 7: Richen and lean it out and note EGT difference, same as step 5.

     

    Step 8: Take note the EGT Temp delta is relatively the same... except the temp range is shifted down a couple hundred degrees

     

    Step 9: Send check or money order to myself for saving you from buying turbo after probe snaps and your done.

     

    Fact: EGT cannot be used to dial in fuel curves, but CAN tell you if the tune has changed from a known point.  You can use an EGT in place of a wideband if you like replacing Engines and turbochargers (unless you buy nice stock in EGT probes, in which it is just engines that you will replace).

     

    There is a number of things that effect EGT temperatures.

    EGTs can go lower, or higher, if you mis-adjust the timing to advanced or to retarded.

    EGTs can go lower, or higher, if you mis-adjust the fuel to lean or to rich.

    EGTs can go lower, or higher, if you have a really bad exhaust setup (PV=nRT) and have to great of backpressure.

    EGTs usually go real high to real low if you detonate, but not always.

     

    So, in the end, relaying on one datapoint for tuning a car would be a bad idea. Buy a wideband, use the EGT to tell you if something is wrong (via a connection in the DP)... or buy a REALLY slow probe and replace it annually at very least.

     

    Joel

  6. Yeah, I'm not so sure he cares for me, due to a difference of opinion. He's a top notch guy as far as knowledge with tuning amongst other things. I would love to sit down with the guy and talk some year.

     

    I've had one phone conversation, in which we talked about high end ignitions for more money than I can afford. I know he's right on the money, but my wife would have me shot if I told her I dumped 2k on a ignition for my car. We'd have to go hungry for a month or two, hehe.

     

    ...Sometimes you take short cuts to get somewhere cheaper. I know in the end it'll cost all the same, but I gotta have fun in the meantime.

     

    Joel

  7. Be aware, I have not proof of it yet, But I think you'll need more injector than any of those charts tell you. Most of them assume a .55-.65 BSFC, and I personally think we are getting lower than that (like .45). These machines aren't known for their extremely high efficiency.

     

    I'm seeing right now on my 800cc/min injectors points in which I require 45% or more above 4000rpm to maintain a 12.5:1 AFR as reported by my wideband/datalogging. I dont feel that at 15psi on a 16G that I'm making much more than 250hp, especially at 1 mile up in altitide.

     

    Just keep it in mind. 400hp would certainly be within a 750cc-800cc injector.

     

    Joel

  8. The Haltech has 32 load points and, 22 rpm ranges in 10,500RPM Mode. Thats 704 Load points.

     

    Adjusting 450 of those load points for fuel and then ignition means you visit over that tune, at least 900 screens (and likely more) on the SDS. I can zip into one rpm range, tune a low load bar, then a higher load bar, slap the bars in between down below the two on either side, hit a hot key to smooth the map. Now all I have it fine tune adjustments to make inbetween, as I just pretty much marked everything else on the map close to what it will be.

     

    I like the compatibility as well. Haltech's will install on virtually any vehicle without having to purchase crank triggers/sensors unless you have special requirements and change the ignition system around like I did. It would have worked without issue if I kept my stock dist.

     

    I've updated my E6K to a newer firmware, so just like the new E6X it does boost fuel cut off, dual mapping (you can have 2 fuel maps stored/tuned in the ECU for different gas etc, then either use laptop or flip a switch to switch between them). It will do Sequential injection, staged injection, batch fire, multipoint. It will do Waste spark, Distributor, COP if you really wanted. It does altitude correction (not needed when using a MAP sensor), TPS load mapping if you care for that (I use the MAP sensor, which is more common). It supports high or low impedence injectors. In fact, as long as you put the injectors on seperate channels, you can mix and match them.

     

    You also have a Trim control input which you can use for any one of the following (and you can change it on the fly with the laptop for any reason). This allows you to change the map based on a percentage of the current map location.

     

     

    Fuel (fine) Trim - Potentiometer of 10k type, fine adjustments of -12.5% to +12.5% Fuel Fuel (Coarse) Trim - Potentiometer of 10k type, fine adjustments of -50% to +50%

    Ignition trim - Potentiometer of 10k -8 degrees to +7 degrees

    Boost Control - When using wastegate control open, adjustment for duty cycle.

     

    You also have the Spare A/D, which can be used for another Trim knob of the above, or any of the other following features:

     

    General - Input any 5v source for datalogging.

    Baro sensor - Altitude corretion on TPS load based cars

    Exhaust Map Sensor - For datalogging

    Aux RPM Limit - Basically, built in studder box (lower the RPM for launching RPM)

    O2 Sensor  - Like a wideband, or standard O2, for datalogging.

     

    Then you have an Aux IN function, which allows any of these features:

     

    Nitrous Input (must use Aux OUT for nitrous output to solinoid)

    TCC Input - Torque convert lockup control for automatic trannys

    Turbo Timer - I dont use it for this, but if you don't have a use for the rest and have no turbo timer, here ya go.

    Anti-Lag Switch - Builtin "bang-bang ALS" built in. You can use this at your own risk unless you have a special turbo to take the beating.

    Flat shift switch - Allows you to hold the throttle open while shifting gears and not overrevving the motor. This is achieved with an on-the-fly drop in ignition advance by 15 degrees.

     

    Closed loop O2 control for gas milage, as well as a Decel cut off (pretty standard shiz there). You can use an idle speed motor of almost any type (aside from out stock ISC, but not hard to rip one that will work off a chevy.

     

    On the typical Batch mode Distributor car, you would have 6 outputs left when all is wired up as far as the digital and PWM (pulse width modulated) outputs. You can use these for a ton of different things like some mentioned above, and also:

     

    Dual Intake valve solinoid

    VTEC (or anything needing RPM engagement)

    Torque converter control

    Thermofan

    Intercooler fan

    Shift light

    Aux Fuel Pump

    Staging signal

    ...And others

     

    They also include zero and full throttle maps (in case you have interesting cams).

     

    I dunno, I probably sound like a sales guy. I don't think anything I buy would do anything less, even if it's not a haltech. Just thought I would post this up for a read or two. It really is down to personal preference.

     

    Joel

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