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BADBAJA

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Posts posted by BADBAJA

  1. Right on Komeuppance i ouble checke my vac hoses with what your instructions wer and it ended up being he problem. When i did the emmissions removal i plugged the altitude solenoid into the middle hose on bottom 3. I moved it to the top port as you said. It does not cut out at all after being warmed up and i drove it aroud my hood for a bit. So thank you very much and to all the people that helped.

     

    It does have a blueish smoke that comes out the exhaust but it is NOT constant. If i rev it it billows it ou for a min then kinda clears up, it still smells a little rich but i will drain the gas and get new plugs for it also.

     

    where can i get a new fpr or rebuild kit?

     

    also where is the hose connection for the inside gauge? where does it go through the wall?

  2. The engine will rev as high as redline even when running rich, if I hit the gas and rev it it seems to clear up, it hesitates for a second but then seems to run (maybe a little rich, little) and rev fine drove it a few blocks but hesitates and feels alot different power wise.

     

    i have not checked them and will swap thm tommorow for sure i am sure they are black.

     

    the ecu i opened and ran a nose sniff test to see if it smelt burn at all and all lokks ok, this car spent alot of time between here and south america belive it or not.

     

     

    The engine runs just fine and then suddenly runs pig rich bad bad bad smell .. It seems almost like something is being switched on or off suddenly.. It does not slowly go into the super rich it just goes bam, right to rich. Always about the same time, but does seem FOR SURE to be heat related because if I rev it up it will do it faster even though the temp gauge(swapped sensor) says its still about a 1/4 way up the dial.

     

    Every wire that is computer related seems to be fixed and well, the car ran great befre this ofcoarse. I am trying to figure out a way to get the pics on here so you can see

     

    I know it seems likeit issomething simple and I wanted to say thank you to you guys for the suggestions.

  3. logic probe here ya o http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logic_probe

     

    It will not harm your electronics like a test light will.

     

    I have checked the CTS coolant temp switch at the sensor and the ecu with it unplugged and it read the same. I belive the CTS sensor to be fine, all 3 i used had the same resistance.

     

    When I unplug either theinjectors whe rich it will even out a little. I can unplug either and it will keep running when it is running badly.

     

    It looked like some fuel leakage around the FPR, i am not sure though i dont see it anymore. also the TB and all related fuel parts were swapped out with a car that had a faulty wastegate hose and popped the motor.

  4. ok put the new bosch 11027 o2 sensor and it does the same thing with the voltage. they said this universal is the same thing. I did have to solder in a piece of wire(it was to short from the fire), but it still reads the same voltage on each solder joint(2). The voltage on the new one only goes to .2-.3 then it starts running rich and shaking like crazy.
  5. hi guys first post and yes I searched.

     

    I have a 86 conquest wide body that i go with a slight engine fire. it actually just smoldered, never went up in flames. So I got a parts car and resoldered alot of the engine harness. Everything was intact so I belive I got it right. I have before pics as well, looks bad.

     

    Anyways I got her running and after about 2 mins of warming up it goes completely flat and almost sounds like its gonna die. When I rev it it goes decent but you can tell its not right. When it runs rough it runs super pig rich and smells like crap. When I plug my logic probe into the engine coolant sensor it runs almost normal. So in other words when i stick the tester into the yellow with green striped wire it levels off almost perfect, it still runs a little rich but not real bad.

     

    I changed out the sensor with 2 other ones and no luck, one i borrowed from a know running starion.

    The wires going to and from the ecu seem to be fine.

    I double checked where the loom goes and it was not touched by any heat.

    I have over 15+yrs as a pro installer for 12volts and this is giving me issues.

     

     

    The car ran tip top before and was actually just rebuilt not to long ago. picked the whole car up or $180.

     

    I have pics but will have 2 load later

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