BGJOHNSON
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Posts posted by BGJOHNSON
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SOLD!!
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That's freakin hilarious. I watched them all.
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Sale pending on the car.
I got a chance to drive it, it drives very very well. Getting into more than 5lbs of boost it starts breaking up because of the richeness, but I really wish I had the problem figured out so I could drive it. But I need something with better gas mileage also. Thanks for the help with everything guys, I'll pass this thread onto the future owner.
I might buy another one eventually. Interesting cars.
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Do what you want to, but my $10k engine is going through it's paces
Well, I dont believe it :? :? Someone actually spent more than me on a engine rebuild
Get ready to hear a lot of CRAP :wink: :wink: CALIBER 308
yep, I'm not too bright.
But I had two of everything to buy, everything is good for 1200hp...except the block that's only good to 600-800 depending on who you talk to. :?
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Sale pending
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I know this is a bit prejudice. But I would not let your sister drive it with that body kit, or drive it period. If the car is near perfect, now is the time to sell it. Not when the car has a cracked front bumper, door dings, and other imperfections that somebody will pick apart to get you to come down on price.
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Mine also was just a GS-T, I know the AWD brings more ching.
If you were closer I'd give you 2200-2300 for the way the car sat right now without any repair.
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I will try some of that tonight, thanks for input.
This car has had the same symptoms with three different sets of injectors. the 'known good ones' were cleaned and tested 500 miles ago. I have not cranked and looked to see which one is spraying or if they are leaking pressure off.
The car is possibly sold as is, 500 bucks non refundable until he gets the rest. I'm trying to help this guy out with as much info as I can. I'll probably point him towards this thread when it's sold, so he can have a good head start in finding the problem.
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1000 miles and go. If your stuff isn't done breaking in by then, it never will. Your rings were seating within 10 minutes of driving and your chains, valves, rockers and cam were broken in at a few hundred.
Do what you want to, but my $10k engine is going through it's paces and switching to full synthetic at 1,000 miles. Same with my transmission.
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I know my posts are lengthy but I already covered that.
It will NOT run with just the primary plugged in.
And the plugs are brand spanking new NGK's
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Good luck getting 3500 man. I'm not mocking you, I've just sold and bought a few. Rebuilt the entire thing and only got 2600 with a clean as hell 1G with 120k.
Maybe it's a midwest thing, lets hope so.
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I know of one or two in Iowa. I've only seen One.
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I'm sorry if I was not clear with my previous posts.
With JUST the secondary injector hooked up, it will idle and boost, but will pop and dip under 3k. and will not cold start.
With BOTH hooked up it will run extremely rich and when it starts boosting will cut out and blow black smoke. and saturates the oil with fuel.
With JUST the primary hooked up it will not even idle.
With the clips REVERSED it will run the same as if BOTH were hooked up.
This is a very involved problem, that is hard to make everybody else understand without being here.
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I can't see the pic because I'm at work. But if I have this car past the weekend, I'll go get a noid light set and do some testing.
What's confusing is that this thing almost acts like it's a 86 system, with them both firing at the same time. I can switch the clips and it runs EXACTLY the same. I checked part numbers on the injectors and they are for 88-89. I know for a fact the ECU is a 88 and the spark box is for an 88.
Something the idiot before me did is, he actually had a 850cc injector in the place of the primary. That's why I swapped out for cleaned known good injectors that came out of an 88 and check part numbers to verify.
Something else to chew on. With a dead cold start, it will NOT start with just the secondary plugged in, you have to plug in both to get it started. Then right after that I can unplug the primary and it will just run on the secondary.
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I got it running last night and i still don't have the radiator fans , but I did put the rad in a burp the system.
Anyways, I tried swapping injector clips to see if maybe they got crossed. It still ran very rich and both still fired. I tried finding a coolant temp sensor and NOBODY has one in my area and is special order.
Here's something I found interesting though, when I unplug the secondary and IT SHOULD run just on the primary, it does not. It will start for one second then die. But it revs and idles fine on just the secondary, but is too lean. I will be able to test more once the fans are in, but it might be gone by this weekend anyways. We shall see.
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The harness on it now is unhacked and 100% factory besides the injector clips.
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no we are not confuse'd it's answers to questions we need
did you unplug the sec inj,,it may be it's stuck open and you think it's spraying ,when in fact it's just open,,, huge diff in is the ecu actualy fireing the inj or not
as i state'd eariler,,the ecu only fires both injs if it sees more rpm signals then the engine is actualy doing,, or the tps is giveing it a voltage signal of more then 3 volts or the air mass is sending a air flow signal equal to the air at 3k rpms, any huge air leak in the ic pipeing will enable the air mass to flow more air then the engine is actualy useing
if you remove the ic pipe after the turbo you'l see it's blowing air like a hair dryer even at idle
was the air mass connector hack'd or did you plug it into the 1g air mass,and has this 1g air mass ever work'd properly since it has been on the car
I've unplugged the secondary and the injector will shut off completely. I've tried 3 sets of injectors.
The 1G MAF was installed by the previous owner, on the old harness he hacked it and put the connector in . ON the new harness I just cracked the shell on the 1G MAF and laid the tab down. I don't like hacking harnesses.
I have not leak checked the entire system, but I might do that tonight if I have time. I have inspected the hoses and they looked fine.
I was told the disty was replaced not too long ago. Looks like a newer Vac advance unit also.
Tonight I get my radiator, so I can install that and do some diag finally and hopefully have some more answers. Thanks for the replies thus far, keep em coming.
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OK to answer questions.
The boost sensor I'm talking about is the one inline with two of the 3 waste gate vac lines that plugs near the MAF. Is that for overboosting? I know DSM's you just unplug it so it can't take timing away with too much boost.
Yes I'm positive the wiring harness is from an 88 and has replaced WITH A KNOWN GOOD ONE. and the part number IS correct for an 88 Manual trans ECU also.
The clips have been replaced and are correct.
I'm not sure if they are firing back and forth or at the same time.
The only thing I would like to try is a stock MAF, ditch the 1G for now. But I have no time as three people are looking at it this weekend. The only thing I have time for is to set the TPS and replace the coolant temp sensor.
Looks like everybody else is as confused as I am.
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Hey guys.
I got my quest back together, I have few people interested in buying and would love to have it running great if they were to buy it. Heck I might keep it if it runs well. Anyways, I said I would create a thread that had everything that I have done to it so I could start from scratch. Ok here it goes.
I bought the car and it ran rough and both injectors would fire.
Found out it had a blown headgasket and cracked exh mani and head.
Replaced the head with a rebuilt unit and exh mani and JVE
replaced the head gasket.
Replaced timing components
replaced entire engine harness
replace injectors with known good injectors, and injector capacitor.
Replaced ignitor box/spark box
fixed all known vac leaks
Replaced ECU
Cleaned all connectors next to the battery.
Cleaned all grounds and engine/body grounds
It still fires both injectors!
Granted it's running on all four cylinders now and is alot smoother. I have to drop the radiator in it once I get it back. But the only thing I really haven't tested is the ECU temp sensor and the Boost sensor near the passengers side firewall and throttle position sensor. and yes I have changed the oil and will do it again to get the gas out.
My question this time is, can that Boost sensor fail and think it's under boost and that's why it's dumping fuel and firing both injectors?
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Bump**
Willing to except good running trades also.
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I have a leather rear seat in just about perfect condition, not sure how much it would be to ship though. How about $30 plus whatever shipping is?
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Do your lights actually work when the pedal is pressed, and if so are they dim?
Is it worse if you have your lights on? I would say you have a short to ground somewhere, or a short to power with another wire.
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schweet. Torque does indeed win races
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Car runs!
Just needs the radiator. The bad thing is it still has the injector problem.
Anywho, here are some pics of the finished product.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/bgjohnson/COnquest007.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/bgjohnson/COnquest006.jpg
Both injectors firing, continued.
in Advanced Virtual Mechanic
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