misterdrifter

cold start...

Yeah.. I tried cleaning the stock sender... goes almost to 3/4 cold but no higher. I think I may try installing the sender that came with the aftermarket electric gauge just to see what it reads. If i get a low reading I'll go buy a mechanical gauge. I have a brand new aftermarket electrical gauge with aftermarket sender. I'm going to try that first to just get a reading and see what it says. If it's wonky or low, I'll go purchase a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Interesting... I will pull my sender and clean it. And see if it changes. Mechanical gauges work off vacuum right? Thanks for the tips I've removed my balance shafts... SO ... that's not so comforting.. :-S

Really?? Crap... I'm running 10w30 Mobile1. The cylinder head is brand new, and the block has about 80k miles on it. Any possibility my stock gauge is crapped out?? When it warms up idling it goes to about 1/4 or so... and if I rev the motor to like 2k rpms it will climb just up a bit past 1/2...

Can you guys tell me if I'm okay? I was trying to get the gauge hooked up to the stock sender and it was reading 25psi... not sure what the appropriate pressure for a cold engine is.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB5zsTq_ruA&feature=youtu.be Also, stay tuned for huge gigantic update :D

This is my problem. There are 2 different TO bearings and Pressure plates... right? I think I have a miss-matched set installed. I'm just going to order a new clutch/plate/TO bearing set

spent an hour tugging on the stupid tranny. It won't separate from the motor. Im pooped... will try again tomorrow

Okay... Reason I ask is because a mechanic friend (not a starquest enthusiast) told me you can't do that... lol

Okay, yeah.. The car did sit in a field for 3 years with the throwout beating and pivot arm exposed to the elements.... I guess it's a new clutch kit for me.. Can you pour fluid into the transmission from where the shifter is. I noticed when installing my short shifter that there was oil all over where the ball of the shifter sits... Yeah... I polished the head shields on the manifold.. and the whole intake manifold too.. I have a sickness.. haha

Thanks! I did that myself.

Is there anyway, putting the trans back in that I could have forgotten to do something? I've bled the system like almost a full bottle of brake fluids worth of fluid. Clutch feels decently stiff... Would I need to adjust the clutch pedal if the clutch was fine before when the car was running? And yes the motor sounds wicked mean. I love the idle of a straightpiped G54b

Yup.. it is. It moves back like almost an inch and a half...

Yeah I did that. I bled the system. Also changed the slave cylinder. The clutch is engaged because with the car off and in gear, the back wheels will move when i rotate the crank shaft. How ever, pushing the clutch pedal in, doesn't stop this.

Ok so when I posted a few months ago... (has it been that long) my motor was in the car and it would crank and run. Figured out that I was 2 teeth off on the timing chain. Fixed that. Cranked but still ran rough. THEN, figured out that somehow... (i have no idea how).. my plugs on my cap were ordered 1, 2, 3, 4. I couldn't have made that mistake... on the other hand maybe I did. That just amazes me though that the car could start 2 teeth off on the chain AND only 1, and 4 firing when they should.... Anyways, changed the oil that smelled like gas. Cranked it again, and it sounded like pure heaven this time. After running it for about 5 mins, i shut it off to fix a coolant leak. I checked the oil and there was just a TINY small HINT of white foamyness on the dipstick.... I thought to myself... HOW... how could that be. So, I did the following -retorqued the head bolts to 88 ft/lbs. Up from 72. (they are ARP studs so I figured they should be torqued more since they are pre-stretched. Also, friend said there was a sticker or paper in my box that I should have gotten that said torque to 90-something. I figured 88 was a safe number.) -re-checked all the timing cover bolts (4 of them on the turbo side turned a full half turn around tighter). Cranked the motor up again, and ran it. 5 mins. Checked the oil again... no foam? Good, or bad. Anyways, here is a video of it running with a small walk around. Pardon my roommates profanity. I still have one problem now, however. The car won't go into gear when it's running.... I'm assuming something stupid or small... Running with walk around: Some revving Thoughts? Does it sound ok? I'm guessing the bit of sputtering is the burnning of the crap in cyl 2 and 3 from when they weren't firing...

Yeah... i figured as much. 98.8% feedback isn't too awesome either... >_<

I know this is probably too good to be true... but... I just have to ask! Is this worth buying?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1999-Mitsubishi-TD05-20G-Turbo-Eclepse-DSM-EVO-GSR-VR4-/200822897500?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec1fa3b5c&vxp=mtr http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1991-1999-Mitsubishi-TD05-20G-Turbo-Eclepse-DSM-EVO-GSR-VR4-/00/s/MTYwMFgxMzUx/$(KGrHqZ,!o4F!I(z(SMqBQEdUPHy7Q~~60_57.JPG

If you save the pictures, and then open them with photoshop or some other photo editing program, just measure with the program's ruler. at 25% and 50% for the respective ones. The boost gauge came out crappy because I just sat my boost gauge on the scanner since the face is glued on... :-\

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/boost.jpg

at 25% the speedo and tach are at exact size. at 50% the mini gauges are exact size. not sure if its diff on your screen though... http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/Speedo-and-Tach.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/MiniGauges.jpg

yup. I assume now, that's why it managed to fire up before and probably one of the reasons it ran rough, in addition to the bad primary. Fixed the primary, fixed the cam timing. Should be golden

So remember like a couple weeks ago I said I was like maybe a tooth off? Well I did some like precise measuring and discovered I was actually 1 full chainlink off. So TWO teeth. I pulled the bolt, and managed to jimmy the chain with the help of my roommate, back to where I believe it is supposed to be. Check it. http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/284782_10151402835528782_1047262756_n.jpg If you look at the sprocket in that picture, the red arrow, was one link further clockwise than it is now. I'm 100% sure Im on now, because as you can see at the bottom, the crank is at TDC ) http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/IMG_1365.jpg http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n153/misterdrifter/IMG_1364.jpg

I have acess to a scanner, on select days. I'll see what I can do next week at school. I don't have the boost gauge face, because I used it as a face replacement for an aftermarket boost gauge.

Booooyeaa!! Welcome! I'm also a man of reverse engineering! Cen-cali here, though if I could afford it, i'd live in SD.

I have a couple taken apart dashes on my dinner table, I have the faces out... How would you want me to measure them? Just straight across?