Whiplash

Times have changed. When I went in 1980 I was the only one that volunteered. I was told all the others on the bus to the airport had either a choice. Go to jail or join the military. The requiter said it so everyone heard it on the bus. I looked back and the other guys were nodding yes.

The other way is to put a pressure gauge on it. And just to clear the air. I said to jump the LOW PRESSURE SWITCH only. You would jump from one side to the other of the switch.

Yea. Take it to a dealership and let them jump the wires with a paper clip. I've worked at several dealerships over 5 or 6 years. They ALL did it that way.

I'm ex Navy. But if I did it over again I would join the Air Force. They had the best bases when I was overseas. Or the Coast Guard had a shorter time to make rank.

Yes. The compressor will not run if low on freon. But by jumping the switch you trick it into thinking it has a full freon charge. The low pressure switch should be on or near the dryer. I think the dryer is located in front of the rad. to the right side near the headlight.

I bought one of those hand held steam cleaners from Walmart. It didn't do the job. I was wanting to clean the wheel wells on the Quest. I took it back. I used oven easyoff to get the junk off and a scraper. Must wear a mask. I would use a pressure washer but the Quest is crammed in my garage with the engine out.

With the engine NOT running. With the A/C turned on. Jump the low pressure switch near the dryer. I use a paper clip. If the compressor kicks in you are low on freon.

I use synthetic in all my engines. Mobile 1 says you can use just after camshaft break-in. I talked to one of the engineers at Royal Purple a few years ago and he stated to wait 7 - 10K miles before using a synthetic oil. I also brought up this issue a few years ago myself. Only one member I know of listened and agreed with me. I'm not going to say Tim's name!

I read it. It states what I said about camshaft break-in. Please tell me what is opposite. Maybe I worded it wrong above and sounds opposite?

http://www.aera.org/eptb/TB2333R.pdf Or you can contact any camshaft manafacture that floats you boat. BTW. I work in service engineering for an automotive engine parts manafacture.

Ive never heard of an idle bearing. And I know bearings!

The Zinc additive (ZDDP) is only needed whan breaking in a NEW flat tappet camshaft. After that it's no issue and is NOT required.

http://www.aera.org/eptb/TB2333R.pdf

ZDDP started being reduced from oils in around 1986. The ZDDP has been removed from ALL engine oils to below acceptable levels in Jan 2007. ZDDP (zinc and phosphorus) is only needed in first break-in for flat tappet camshafts only. Not needed for roller camshaft break-in. You can buy a bottle of ZDDP from NAPA, and some performance houses. NAPA can get it but most stores don't know about it yet. NAPA sells the Lucus brand. BTW. If not using the additive it will wear the lobes off the cam in a few minutes.

She is HOT! I like ALL the pictures. I think she would look great using an old 110 camera. Don't get my wrong, your exp. shows well. She looks like a pro model.

I was offered a job as the Lead Aquarist at the Memphis Aquarium & Zoo about 10 years ago. I have a heavy background in aquatics with over 20 years at that time. I've won many awards, and written many articles on aquatics over the years. I've also worked at the Bermuda AM&Z for about 2 years. The MA&Z offered me a whopping 300 per week to run the aquarium. Insurance was 300 per month for family. So only 900 per month income. It would have been a great job. But I wouldn't have been able to afford a family. More money is in the automotive industry.

Go with the 10W30 Royal Purple!

It looks like it was cut into the water jacket.

You can buy a NEW head on what it would cost to repair that one.

It's a nice paper weight now!

I use Wix, sold by CarQuest and NAPA, in every engine I own. Including the mower. BTW I used Royal Purple. But too hard to find in my area now. So I use Mobile 1 lately. I've heard some good things about Amsoil.

You would think it was 48 volts. 4 x 12 = 48. But It was 42, or 46. My fading memory wants to say it was 46 volts.

Some years ago, at least five, OEM started researching elect. water pumps to install on new higher-end cars. Also engines would have a secondary elect. oil pump, etc...This would be for the new 42, or was it 46 volts systems. They were going to have this avail. in around 2007. One of the issues was the life of a elect. water pump wasn't that great. OEM has dropped the higher volt system for now.

True. But I am one of their suppliers, and they called me on another issue when I told them. Melling states it fits: Chry, Dodg, Dodt, Mazd, Mits, Plym 122, 156, 158 (1976-89)

I contacted O'Reilly a few years ago to tell them to correct there listing. I told them this is the oil pump for the non-turbo engines. I guess I should have explained more.