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squealling car annoying as all hell


dfordie22
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i just purchesed this car 2 weeks ago in pretty ruff shape from a hack job machanic(if thats what you wanna call him) numourus cut wires, things removed that didnt need to be sum kind of rediculous air intake set up and a ruff running engine (with only 92,000 miles on it). Iv managed to collect some parts from a local conquest lover and put most of this back toghether now im dealing with this loud squealing coming from under the car it almost sounds like metal on metal coming from the rear end, thing is its not on all the time it comes n goes as it pleases when im driving and when im at a stop, i have noticed that the anit lock light is on the dash, the car runs n drives n shifts good tho (other then a slight timing issue, and high idle)can anyone shine some light on this poor automobile.
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Anti lock light on and squeeling metal on metal from the rear? Just wild guess that it's time to take a good look at the rear brakes? Notorious PITA are those rear calipers.

 

Your idle - assuming everything sensor-wise is working - should be cured by an ISC/TPS reset proceedure. Page 7 or so on the FAQ's.

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If it makes noise even when the wheels aren't turning it's not brake related. Nor is it "half-shafts" and CV joints.

 

Pop the rear hatch and lift the false-floor so you can see the spare tire. Just to the left of it should be a cover plate for the fuel pump... if that plate is missing you're probably hearing the pump screaming. It shouldn't be making various noises... just a steady purr. Fuel pumps that scream mean:

* pump is about to totally fail. Doesn't matter if it's new or not; it can still be bad. Lots of "bad right out of the box" parts stories out there... and recently a whole lot of cheapo knock-off fuel pumps were flooding e-bay.

 

* Something is blocking the fuel pickup hose to the pump... without fuel flowing through it, many pumps will make a screeching sound as it struggles to "suck" fuel - and this is bad for them.

 

One thing you can try: remove that cover plate so you can see the pump. Go for a drive and after about 10 minutes pull over and quickly touch the pump body... check it's temp. If it's hot, that's a bad sign. Now drive again until you hear the noise; quickly pull over and check the temp again. If it's significantly hotter, the pump is dying or struggling.

 

Another noise source is a loose exhaust manifold gasket - the multi-later stainless steel gasket between the cylinder head and exhaust manifold. If the studs that hold the manifold onto the head are loose, or if the "one use only" copper self-locking nuts are loose/missing, that gasket shrieks loudly like a kid's birthday party favor. Usually that noise happens during acceleration - when the exhaust manifold has significant pressure. Look at the studs & nuts closest to the firewall end of the engine (the #4 cylinder); those are the ones that typically get ripped out of the cyl head first by a warping exhaust manifold. Also, if you see a fiber or paper exhaust manifold gasket... you've got one for a non-turbo (normally aspirated) engine and it will die quickly because it wasn't designed to withstand the temps of a turbo fed engine's exhaust.

 

mike c.

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