Water / Meth Heads out there, 2 cents?

[86TSiGuy]

First off, this isn't for my quest.

But I always get the straightest shooters in here, so I thought I'd put it out there.

 

I have a non-intercooled Dodge SOHC 2.2L in an 87' Lancer.

It was supposed to be my wife's, I found it in PA with 60k on it.

But these little FWD Chrysler's are so fun to play with, and cost little to nothing to mod.

And that's how I ended up using it as my daily...lol

 

So I want to keep the log manifold draw-through T1 set-up.

Talk about short track length, the TB sits on top of the turbo inlet, and there is a 4" hose between the compressor outlet and the intake.

It runs a Garret T03 .48 trim on a log exhaust.

I've pretty much taken it as far as I can without cooling.

(K&N filter and cold air, long duration slipper cam advanced +1, 2.5" exhaust no-cat into highflow, custom tune)

 

I advanced the cam and tuned the ECU for 9psi and 14.5' timing.

The car is a 3-speed a413 auto. so it never see's north of 4k rpm.

The cam and timing really helps fill the cylinders at low rpm, and at 2600lbs. she makes going to work almost as fun as in my quest.

 

I have a new tune for the ECU that will run 12psi, before I install it I need to cool my intake charge.

I've already decided on water/meth injection because I want to keep the uber-short intake track.

I have a ported head and later model blow through manifolds for a swap down the road.

But for now I'm enjoying the odd set-up.

 

I'm going to put a single small (1gph or 180cc) injector directly in the turbo compressor outlet about 6" before the intake manifold.

I'm going to run a 250psi pump from Devil'sOwn that can switch between 150 and 250psi.

The 2.5 gallon washer botlte in the trunk that the rear wiper runs will be my bottle (I never use it anyway)

And I'm going to mount the pump in my spare well.

The ECU uses a 2-bar map on the manifold that was used in intercooled T2 car's.

I have all the necessary fitting's, check valve etc.

 

Now I want to use a 2-6psi adjustable hobb's switch from DO to trigger the spray.

Such a small nozzle under such high pressure should insure atomization, and if not the heat from the manifolds on the non-crossflow head will do the trick.

So I think the engine will be even less prone to bogging under light load while spraying.

Yet that much 2:1 water to methanol should drop intake temps 50-70' F and severely slow flame front during combustion.

 

Here's the question guy's (sorry I made the post so long);

 

If I trigger the spray low down (like 2-3psi) so the injection acts like a long term continuous duty intercooler, is it unavoidable that I'll bog or misfire when I lift my foot?

 

Do I have to shell out the extra $200 for a progressive controller?

 

My pump is only capable of 3 duty cycle settings so that's like 2psi a step, is that worth the extra cash?

 

I appreciate any advice, thanks people.

 

[86TSiGuy]

Come on, no one out there is running water / alcohol injection?

You should be!

Raises the octane point of 87 as high as 116, just think of the boost.

[pitboss]

I did it to my 88 quest.

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...c=93403&hl=

 

in the process of running just -20* windshield washer fluid instead of 50/50. So far so good. Turned the base timing down to 12.5BTDC @ 18 psi on 14G.

[86TSiGuy]

I did it to my 88 quest.

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...c=93403&hl=

 

in the process of running just -20* windshield washer fluid instead of 50/50. So far so good. Turned the base timing down to 12.5BTDC @ 18 psi on 14G.

 

Did you ever get the trigger turned up?

Mine will adjust between 2-6psi and I only run 9psi max now, 12 after I install the new ECU.

I chose my pump specifically from DO because it's a 250psi with a 150 switch.

So with the 2 smallest nozzles and the two pump settings I have four levels of injection to work with.

So I figure I will start with the largest on 250 and work backwards until the cars stops bogging at activation.

 

I'm not too worried about spool time because I have the cam advanced so drastically, my peak power is around 4500rpm.

Plus the distance between turbo and manifold is all of maybe 6" so the T3 comes on quick as it is.

I'm curious about what gain I'll get without adding timing or boost.

I want to keep the car capable of running of spray on the same tune, so that if I ever get stuck everything is safe.

A tiny stock fmic on my set-up is proven good for about 25hp, and this injection will be more efficient than that cooler.

At the very least it should help keep my fuel from boiling in my rail.

 

Also stay away from any wiper fluid that isn't blue, as well as look for any mention of glycol or soap additives.

These will create small foam bubbles on the surface if you shake the bottle, and will eventually lead to engine deposits.

Other than that run it, and see what happens.

The only side effect internally from using water injection is clean combustion chambers.

 

 

 

[pitboss]

I turned it down from the factory setting of 10 psi, so the switch activates now at ~8 psi. Seems to be the right amount b/c when you punch it your gonna hit 19 psi quick, so I need that stuff to come in early and I was getting just a little detonation before, but not anymore. My switch is threaded into the Tb, but the nozzle is way upstream in the HP that connects to the OVCP. I only have 1 nozzle and it sprays plenty. I could prob. boost to 22 psi or thereabouts. There is absiolutely no detonation going on that I can hear. Just steady a/f all the way on it. I think my pump is a 150 psi pump. I was at 14BTDC, but I lowered it allittle to 1`2.5 for safety and it idles a little better now anyways.

 

Yeah, just using the blue stuff. Contents are just water and methyl alcohol. Doesn't say ratio or anything. Valucraft from Autozone @1.99/gal. Assuming 60/40 water/meth from what dude said in my post. 50/50 seems maybe just a little too rich as I am popping a little at wot like too rich. This stuff seems alright so far.