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Posts
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Joined
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Last visited
About Turbospecv
- Birthday 10/21/1984
Profile Information
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Interests
straight Racing lol and family
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Location
Dallas
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Gender
Male
Previous Fields
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Zip Code
75211
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Model
Starion
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Type
ESI-R
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Model Year
1987
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Transmission Type
Manual
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Factory Color
Serbia Black
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Interior Color
Black
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Status
On the road
Turbospecv's Achievements
Newbie (1/14)
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Reputation
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Hey guys I need some help please. I have a 87 quest and I am having the problrm where I am driving thr car and it juts turns off. It has no power like if someone pulled the battery out I go to move the connectors beside the battery and then it will start again. so I keep on driving and a little bit later it does it again no power whatsoever to the car I can turn the key but no power comes on can anyone help me on this
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But is it the 650cc or the 950cc that is primary
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Hey guys on a 87 conquest which Injector is primary and which is secondary? Is the one towards the fendor primary or secondary?
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So which would be the best way to clean the catch can ?
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Oh ok make sense I will definitely put it back on
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hey guys need some help. I removed the black catch can connected to my intake that goes to the valve cover and to the oil pan and I put a little filter on the valve cover. ok so my question is do I cap the other holes or leave them open. last thing is after I did this my check engine light went off and it flashed 7 times which is coolant sensor now was this just coincidence or are these two connected and now just not receiving enough air.
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ok just making sure but you said have someone floor the gas pedal and then tighten the bolt holding the cable until its tight ?
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hey guy i am having a hard time understanding how loose the throttle cable has to be, i read it has to be 1mm loose is this correct? also how should it be loose like when i pull the cable like the slack or if you touch the cable side ways. when i press down on the cable with my finger it has more than 1mm of slack but if i pull the cabe with my fingers it has 1mm of slack. Could someone help me understand this better. Thanks
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Ok so I bought new injector clips and installed them and the car still leans out around 2k-2500k I did notice that when I start the car it runs perfect until the o2 sensor warms up. I know this cause the cars give the o2 code until warmed up so any time before this it does not lean out after light goes solid meaning o2 is hot it starts leaning out at those RPM points
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I replaced the o2 like a month ago could they go bad that fast? And I have the led light connected to the car to check for engine light codes and it does not show any I had a tps one show but I fixed it and after that no codes pop up
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Ok just for info. Say I clean them or just replace them if it still happens what could be the next thing causing that ?
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Oh ok makes sence ill clean them tomorrow morning and go from there thanks
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Hey guys I have a quick question when I'm driving my car my AFR is on point but when I'm driving the car at around 2k rpm the car goes lean all the way to 16 on the aem a/f gauge then after I pass that it goes back regular. I don't understand what could cause it to lean out every time it hits 2k-22k rpm. Your help is highly appreciated
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Won't boost past 7 after maft
Turbospecv replied to Turbospecv's topic in Newbie Question and Answers
Well I have no boost controller I wanted to keep it on stock boost . And I'm using the stock boost gauge. It does not sputter or anything like that it just picks up boost until 7 lb's and feels like it's got good power and then I feel like the car just plateaues and power stops. Before the stock gauge would ready way past 7lb like now it bearly hits 7 -
Hey guys I hate to do this but I'm In the process of buying a home and stop renting so I have to put my baby up for sale. It's a 87 tsi I have it listed on Craigslist in Dallas, TX see link below just call me and I can tell you all about the car http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4495766449.html